Off flavors from tannins

I just saw the above… I don’t believe this is contributing to your sensation of citrusy tartness/bitterness… However, if memory serves, stainless steel and chlorine bleach do not get along very well. In the future I would refrain from using bleach on any stainless, old or new, and just stick with StarSan or other milder cleanser/sanitizers.

The tartness/bitterness thing is still bugging me… I really have to wonder if you’ve got permanent contamination in some plastic or rubber component at some point in your process… could be a racking tube, racking cane, auto-siphon, gaskets… who knows. Might be best to buy all new soft stuff regardess. Then use the new stuff for a batch, and who knows… the problem might just magically disappear, thus proving the issue was from something plastic or rubber. If I were a betting man, well I’d be putting my bet on that at the moment. But it could just as likely be something else. Maybe 50/50 odds.

Denny: It’s not chlorophenol. He’s used all different kinds of water and gets the same flavor even without chlorine. The only exception might be…

Bier brauer: Do you happen to use a green or black garden hose at any stage of your process?? That could be a cause for chlorophenol. If not, let’s knock that possibility out of the ballpark once and for all.

Yes I do have a short piece of black hose I use. I think it is for a washer hot or cold water. I use it connected to the inlet of the carbon filter. I use clear plastic tubing on the outlet. Think it may be from that?. Any suggestions what to use from the faucet to the filter then to the kettle? I was at Walmart and saw this white drinking water hose. Can that be used?
I also use campdon tablets for my water. No bleach is used in any process.
Thanks
Brad

Hmm. If you use Campden after the black hose, I think you should be fine. But I guess I don’t know for sure.

Yeah, sounds like an RV hose. They’re for potable water.

I had that black hose from the start when I went to all grain. I used to sanitize it buy I don’t anymore. I hang it vertical and let dry after each use. Guess I better look into a different hose.

You could make your own hose with some clear, food safe hose and a fitting on each end. Then you would know and could see what is going on.

What kind of hose are you referring to? Vinyl? I have a 15 foot piece of vinyl tubing with garden hose fittings attached to it for the outlet side of the carbon filter. Man is that thing a pain in the butt. I may just buy a 25 foot potable water RV hose, cut it to a short length for the filter inlet side, and use the remaining length for the outlet side for filling the kettles. That way I feel I should be safe. Thoughts?

Do it, dude. Can’t hurt. Excited to try your beer!

I pulled samples from the porter that is fermenting to do gravity checks. I tasted the left over samples and I can taste this flavor in them also. I used BeerSmith to scale back the amount hops from what the recipe called for thinking maybe what I am tasteing is just hop bitterness in my beers. I cut it back from 35 IBU’s to 24. Per the recipe instructions I racked the beer into a secondary on top of vanilla beans that came in the kit. It will sit for two weeks then I will keg it.
When I brew the next time there will be two changes. First I bought water treating salts and chemicales for adjusting the water and second that black hose will be replaced with something different.
Brad

Is it possible my yeast starters be the problem? I keep my starter on the stir plate for 3-4 days depending on work schedule and cold crash for 4 days at 34 degrees. Am I stressing those little yeast cells out?

I’m not an expert on this (my stir plate just arrived yesterday) but I just watched videos from White Labs and Wyeast. I think you only want about a day with a stir plate.

New theory: tired yeast start fermentation but cannot finish, the job is the completed by a wild yeast that was able to take hold because of the weaker yeast.

[quote=“Bier brauer”]
Is it possible my yeast starters be the problem? I keep my starter on the stir plate for 3-4 days depending on work schedule and cold crash for 4 days at 34 degrees. Am I stressing those little yeast cells out?[/quote]

You shouldn’t need that long a cold-crash; about 12 hours will settle enough to decant & pitch. Otherwise, no, a 3-4 day starter length is fine… some might argue that it’s optimal.

Here is the Wyeast video on starters. Just over two minutes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ng0Ib7n4DIA

Here is the White Labs video. A bit lengthy and redundant, but step by step.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zUYxb-_ ... e=youtu.be

Not saying this is the issue, but it is probably worth exploring.

[quote=“Silentknyght”]You shouldn’t need that long a cold-crash; about 12 hours will settle enough to decant & pitch. Otherwise, no, a 3-4 day starter length is fine… some might argue that it’s optimal.[quote=“Bier brauer”]
Is it possible my yeast starters be the problem? I keep my starter on the stir plate for 3-4 days depending on work schedule and cold crash for 4 days at 34 degrees. Am I stressing those little yeast cells out?[/quote][/quote]

Thank you. I’ll cut back on some processing time for making the yeast starter. See what happens.Anything is worth a try.
Brad

Okay… So Brad (Bier brauer) sent me a couple of his beer to taste, an Oktoberfest and an Alaskan amber clone. They arrived intact today, and I set them into the fridge and just got through tasting them both late this evening. FWIW, I am a BJCP Recognized judge with “a lot” of experience. Brad, I do hope you’ll understand why I am posting this publicly, as this is really just the next stage of the discussion in this thread. And, so, here’s what I can tell you all, but primarily for Brad’s benefit:

First of all, the issue is certainly NOT due to:

acetaldehyde
astringency/tannins
chlorophenol
contamination

I was also somewhat surprised that the similarities between beers were NOT very obvious. Each beer was very distinct and unique in character, as one should expect for two distinct styles/recipes. However, upon a little pondering, I think I might have figured things out… The two beers did seem to share just a very slight tartness. More on that later. So okay… tasting notes on the two beers…

The Oktoberfest has an unusual lemony citrus flavor and slight tartness that you wouldn’t expect in an Oktoberfest beer. For this one, I picked up the lemon and tartness up front, not in the finish. It was also very bitter – too bitter for the style, and the bitterness lingered. It is hop bitterness, NOT astringency – I know the difference. I feel like the lemony flavor must be from the hops that were used. Brad, can you tell me what hop additions you used in the Oktoberfest? And if you can recall, were these American hops or imported German hops? That might make a big difference. As for the tartness… It is just a slight tang and not anything like vinegar or lactic acid or anything anywhere close to that, just very very slight, and almost imperceptible. With no real reason for this to have happened, my hypothesis is that there might have been just a wee bit too much specialty malts. There was a fairly high amount of caramel detected, again more than would be expected for the style, and I know crystal/caramel malts if used in high proportions will have a tendency to reduce pH. Add on top of that the known use of the 5.2 pH stabilizer, which I discovered is quite tart with a sort of citric acid flavor, and the conclusion I have is that one or both of these conditions might be the culprit(s). Brad, if you could please post the recipe, it might be very telling indeed. Or maybe not. Worth a shot anyway. In the future, Brad, I would tone down the bittering and flavor hop additions, as well as any caramel or other specialty malts that were used. If you used any melanoidin, I believe that could also have contributed to the low pH and relatively high malty flavors other than bread crust and toast which would be more appropriate for the style. All things considered, it was still a pretty darn good beer and I could drink a lot of it. Very nice toasty finish and aftertaste. No huge flaws. I scored it a 27 overall. Good effort.

The Alaskan Amber clone, I felt, was cloyingly sticky sweet, and full-bodied, with a ton of caramel malt. If I had to guess, I’d say roughly 20% crystal malt was used, and perhaps even more. Brad, please post this recipe as well, unless I am way off in which case let’s not tell anyone! :wink: This beer had no lemony flavor or even much bitterness to balance it out, but had even more of that odd tangy tartness than the Oktoberfest. Again, no astringency or major off-flavors. For this beer, the tartness lingered… and lingered… long into the aftertaste. Again, it’s not hugely obvious like a lambic or anything like that, but just a tanginess. Reminds me of after having consumed a couple of Cokes, that tangy film on the roof of your mouth that remains even 30 minutes later. I felt this beer made the issue almost clear as crystal – it seems too much crystal malt was used, which likely reduced the pH significantly… and then knowing that the 5.2 pH stuff was used, that just might have added to the issue even more. Take Denny’s advice and throw that 5.2 stuff in the garbage. I’ll do the same with mine. It just doesn’t work. But also reduce your specialty malts.

So the themes are consistent. I think there’s too much caramel malt going on here. Cut it in half, or whatever, and you might be well on your way to better beer. Playing with water and salt additions would also be a good idea to ensure your mash pH is where it needs to be. But I’m not convinced that this is solely a water issue. I think it’s primarily just too much specialty malts. Use more base malts. And I’m still not certain what’s up with that lemony thing. I guess if you had used American grown Hallertau or Tettnang hops or whatever rather than German grown, the terroir might have imparted a slight citrusy character, which is not terrible but just might not have been what you expected. If you are seeing citrus in ALL of your beers, well… maybe it’s that 5.2 stuff after all. Next taste of your beers, consider whether it is a citrus flavor, or just a tangy flavor, or both. The causes might be different and might get confused. Citrus is probably hops. Tang is probably either that 5.2 stuff or the wrong pH.

So anyway… I don’t know if all this helps, but these are my humble thoughts based on the two beers that I tasted tonight.

Thank you Dave for your time in analyzing the beer in helping me attempt to nail down this off flavor.
I will start off by saying that all I ever brewed were “already made up “kits. I have never actually built a recipe from scratch. What has me puzzled, is the off flavor is in all my beers. I have made various kits from different suppliers. I have the ingredients listed in my notes for the kits that they are listed for. I hate to say this but the Oktoberfest is one that the supplier does not list the ingredients. Not even the hops. So we will have no clue what went into it. The Alaskan Amber I will check tonight when I get home to see if I have those ingredients in my notes.
As far as water goes, I have used three different supplies. I used spring water from two different sources. One I know where it is bottled. That water is very heavy with limestone. The other is a grocery store brand and I have a feeling it may have come from Pittsburgh area, but honestly I am not sure about that one. The other source is my home tap water. I just started running it through a carbon filter about 5 brews ago, and that is when I also started using campdon tablets . I do run the water very slowly through the filter while filling kettles. So, as far as water goes, we could consider Ph a good possibility. I used the 5.2 stabilizer for about 7 batches off and on. Now it will be tossed. I just received my Ward Lab report on the house water a few weeks ago and have bought water treating chemicals to adjust the water. My house water is 7.8 Ph.
Two things that are constants with my brewing. First is my 15 gallon kettle. Since going all grain I had this kettle. Second is the black hose. It is connected from the faucet to the inlet of the filter. Even though I just started using the filter, I always used that black hose to fill kettles. I sure hope the problem is not with my 15 gallon kettle. I paid a pile of beans for the thing and can’t stand the thought that it may be junk. Please see the post about the kettle.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=118983

Dave you have a lot of good information to help me when I do build a recipe. I am doing my first this weekend. I am brewing a Hefeweizen from scratch. I will be watching the Ph and adjusting for that.
I have a porter that is in the secondary absorbing vanilla bean flavor right now. I used beer smith to scale back the hops. I tasted the hydrometer sample and hate to say I can taste that off flavor already.
Thanks again Dave for your help in this matter. I will certainly be in touch.
Brad

I just thought of something else… Now knowing that you brewed only kit beers… the caramel flavor I detected in both beers might be due in part to staleness of the ingredients. I mean, who knows how long those kits were sitting on shelves before you got them. And crushed grains can go stale pretty fast. So perhaps what I was perceiving as caramel in both beers was due, in part, to old stale grains. This is certainly a possibility. In fact on the Alaskan Amber I have in my notes “the beginnings of oxidation”. I am sure this played a role as well. Now… whether oxidation or staleness can also impact pH, I am not exactly sure, but it seems a good hypothesis to help explain. And at any rate, designing your own recipes and building your own ingredients from scratch can only be a very good thing indeed!

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using that black hose. I detected zero chlorophenols or contamination, which were the concerns folks had with the black hose.

Curious… exactly how much Campden are you using for each batch? It is possible this is having some flavor impact if you are using too much.

Brad I’m not sure if you’ve already posted this but if you use the Bru’n Water program you can adjust for your pH before the grain ever touches the water. My first brew using brewing salts I added the water, then grains, then attempted to adj pH using test strips. It was a nightmare that ended up costing me time and temperature. I would add salts, wait, recheck mash the pH would be ok but then my temp would be off so I’d add more hot water, then have to recheck pH…
My last brew I plugged everything in to Bru’n Water beforehand. I was brewing a stout, and the program told me to leave my mash water alone and just acidify sparge water.

I used E-Z water and BeerSmith in playing with the water calculations. I could not do this myself because I don’t understand the water chemistry thing. I had help from another poster who has been a great help to me. I tried Bru’n water and was lost. I am planning on adding the Cacl to the water before the grain is added.
The one campdon tablet I use is split between the strike water and sparge water. I crushed the tablet between two spoons and added just under ½ of it to 4 gallons of strike water, the rest goes into my sparge kettle that I boil 9 gallons of water. By boiling that much sparge water I am sure to have enough water for the sparge and some left overs sanitized water just in case I need to top up if I lose too much during the boil. I boil the sparge water during the mash. After it boils for about 20 minutes I shut down the burner. By the time I need to use the sparge water it is under 195 degrees.
Brad

Holy wah, that’s a lot of boiled water, assuming you are making 5-gallon batches! Try using 1/2 as much Campden. You’ll get the same results as far as chlorine elimination, with less potential for flavor impacts, as Campden does impart a certain salty flavor itself.