I dont have a meter but by strip my mash ph today was on the dark side of the 4.6 color so let’s call it 4.8 plus .3 correction it would 5.1 so that’s fine. Now this recipe was 10lbs 2 row 1.5 lb rye 3/4 lb caramunich. Is there a way to predict my mash ph for other recipes? It looks like my water is in the zone for pale ales. My pilsner I used 50/50 distilled but I never tested the ph.
Get a water test from ward labs and use bru’nwater. Im within .1 every time.
THIS^^^^^
I agree. But I also have fun futzing with my $80 pH meter when I brew.
Well I’m wondering about the effect of different grain on pH. I like to understand the process instead of just adding stuff to my water.
In general, the darker the grain, the more it will reduce pH. Maybe Martin could give you a color by color analysis, but I can’t. But if you get your water analyzed and use Bru’nwater you’ll understand the process as you add stuff to your water.
I agree that Brunwater will tell you more about what happens when you add certain things.
Unless you plan on studying water chemistry, Brunwater is probably the next best thing. I’ve played around with it a little and it helped me with my last brew. I am hoping to use it more and more and gain more of an understanding. There’s also a good walkthrough for it here: http://accidentalis.com/archives/275
I should have added to read the water knowledge page a few times. I’m gonna read it soon, I want a refresher after using it for the last 10 batches or so.
I understand the basics and I do have a water report around here somewhere. I think I have pretty good water. It makes a very good pale ale. Considering I had around ph 5 for that rye IPA I assume my regular pales with only 2 row would be a wee higher and perfect. I’m only talking ph here for now. I don’t taste any off flavors so I assume non of my mineral content is crazy. I was only wondering if I kept crystal malt usage low and maybe used a bit of aciduated malt in darker beer would that be enough. On the other end mix with a % of distilled. I know I can use a water report and software but that would be easy. People have brewed beer a long time without software and calculators.
If instead of “easy” you meant to say “precise”, then yes, I would agree.
If you think water chemistry is easy, that may be because you have not chosen to fully research/study the topic. Not that I have either, mind you, but I do know enough to know that there is a heck of a lot that I that I don’t know…
I say, if you care enough to ask the question, use the information available ( i.e. water report and software), dial in your system, and then go from there in terms of making any generalizations to the process.
If instead of “easy” you meant to say “precise”, then yes, I would agree.
If you think water chemistry is easy, that may be because you have not chosen to fully research/study the topic. Not that I have either, mind you, but I do know enough to know that there is a heck of a lot that I that I don’t know…
I say, if you care enough to ask the question, use the information available ( i.e. water report and software), dial in your system, and then go from there in terms of making any generalizations to the process.[/quote]
I agree with Steeler.
Not really sure what you want by making this thread… You want to see what different malts do to pH but then you say using some of the most valuable resources out there that do exactly what you’re asking about is too “easy” and people have been doing it without that for years? If that’s the case, get a decent pH meter and run some experiments, testing things out for yourself without the software.
People also brewed beer before they knew yeast was a key ingredient; nothing wrong with progress in brewing. Totally agree that there is no need to fuss over things that make little difference and for those with tap water profiles that match up with the type of beer they brew water might be one of them.
For me and my very hard water I don’t get to ignore water unless I only brew the darkest of beers.
This is true but it’s also the reason we see regionally specific beer styles. If you had hard/alkaline water you brewed dark beers because they turned out better than the lighter ones.
If instead of “easy” you meant to say “precise”, then yes, I would agree.
If you think water chemistry is easy, that may be because you have not chosen to fully research/study the topic. Not that I have either, mind you, but I do know enough to know that there is a heck of a lot that I that I don’t know…
I say, if you care enough to ask the question, use the information available ( i.e. water report and software), dial in your system, and then go from there in terms of making any generalizations to the process.[/quote]
I don’t mean easy as in easy I’m saying easy as in a less roundabout way. Like taking back roads instead of the highway.
And people got around for a long time without cars. And entertained and communicated without the internet. Do you use those?
Unless you’re measuring with a good quality pH meter capable of two-point calibration you’re only guessing. It’s like playing Pin the Tail on the Donkey; you might get the tail pinned to the right spot and you might not. So why not take off the blindfold, take advantage of the readily available measurement tools and pin it right every time?
And people got around for a long time without cars. And entertained and communicated without the internet. Do you use those?[/quote]
Yes but I crawled first then walked then used a crayon. After 16 years I drove and after thirty I used the internet. You guys need to relax and have a beer. Its just an exercise. I’m not saying I won’t use water software at some point. Right now I’m making very good beer so I’m in no hurry.
