Tap-A-Draft owners, I have questions

I just purchased the Tap-A-Draft system yesterday and have been reading alot about them online but I am still a little confused.

So, owners of a Tap-A-Draft (gen 2 version with 1 16g CO2 cartridge) let me ask some questions.

  1. Can force carbonation be done properly with this system? If so how many cartridges does it take? I read somewhere and saw a youtube video that said it only took 1 to carbonate a beer and another to dispense. I also read where it took someone 3-4 cartridges to carbonate the beer.

  2. Natural carbonation! I read through forums and noticed most people only used 1/2 the sugar as would normally be required for 5 gallons when carbonating in the 3 supplied bottles, but a friend here said he used the entire package. Is there a reason for only using half the package of sugar?
    Is only half the package used because some CO2 from the cartridge will be absorbed into the beer?

  3. I hear there are alot of part failures with the system, hoses and o-rings.
    Some people use the system for months and months without problems when some have alot of problems. Is there anything I should look for or be checking to ensure I dont have problems?

If anyone who uses this system has any advice or would like to share with the way they use it or how the carbonate please share, I would appreciate it.

Thanks

[quote=“tiltrotor22”]I just purchased the Tap-A-Draft system yesterday and have been reading alot about them online but I am still a little confused.
So, owners of a Tap-A-Draft (gen 2 version with 1 16g CO2 cartridge) let me ask some questions.

  1. Can force carbonation be done properly with this system? If so how many cartridges does it take? I read somewhere and saw a youtube video that said it only took 1 to carbonate a beer and another to dispense. I also read where it took someone 3-4 cartridges to carbonate the beer.

  2. Natural carbonation! I read through forums and noticed most people only used 1/2 the sugar as would normally be required for 5 gallons when carbonating in the 3 supplied bottles, but a friend here said he used the entire package. Is there a reason for only using half the package of sugar?
    Is only half the package used because some CO2 from the cartridge will be absorbed into the beer?

  3. I hear there are alot of part failures with the system, hoses and o-rings.
    Some people use the system for months and months without problems when some have alot of problems. Is there anything I should look for or be checking to ensure I dont have problems?
    If anyone who uses this system has any advice or would like to share with the way they use it or how the carbonate please share, I would appreciate it.
    Thanks[/quote]

  4. You can force carb with the old style two cartridge unit, but it’s a low level and takes both cartridges. I have a 3 liter soda bottle with the same size opening that I use to carb with my older system. From what I’ve read you can’t with the new version.

  5. Use a lower amount on these and the 5 liter mini kegs.

  6. I’ve used mine for several years and no part failures.

Full disclosure, I like the Tap-a-draft very much and still use it although I switched to kegging most of my batches.

  1. I t is hard to force carb a full 6L bottle. I have tried with 2 or 3 canisters and the time to carb seems to be quite long.

  2. Bottle carbing works great and I typically use the normal sugar solution for a 5 gal batch. I usually fill a bomber or two along with the 6L bottles, so I have just gone ahead with normal sugar amounts. I have had zero problems.

  3. I have not had any equipment problems with values or seals. I did buy a tote with the blue ice packs. The first one I had did not fit as it was for Gen 1 and I had Gen 2. NB replaced it. Sometimes I need to use a little square of paper towel in the plastic sleeve for the CO2 canister to help raise the level and make it easier to start the CO2 flow. I have had more than a dozen batches run well with the system.

Enjoy.

Awesome, thanks for the replies. One last question though.
Is there anywhere locally you can buy 16g CO2 cartridges? Maybe Walmart?
Does it have to be the brand they sell on the tap-a-draft website?
The cartridges I see on ebay to buy bulk are threaded cartridges, do these work as well?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-CO2-16g-cart ... 1426wt_919

Thanks for all the help!!!

[quote=“tiltrotor22”]Awesome, thanks for the replies. One last question though.
Is there anywhere locally you can buy 16g CO2 cartridges? Maybe Walmart?
Does it have to be the brand they sell on the tap-a-draft website?
The cartridges I see on ebay to buy bulk are threaded cartridges, do these work as well?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-CO2-16g-cart ... 1426wt_919

Thanks for all the help!!![/quote]

I have no answer, but am curious about this, too. I want to get a Tap-a-draft, and it would make my life easier if I could use threaded cartridges (I use them to fill up my bike tires, so buying only threaded in bulk would be fantastic).

I will start by saying I do not own one yet but have been looking at them. You can use other co2 cylinders. Just watch out some of them are for machine use and contain oil in them and would taste funny. :wink: Cheers

I got mine from William’s home brew supply and on the smaller cartridges (bigger ones too, I think) you can get a pretty good price if you buy a bunch. And they have flat rate shipping of $6.95 to the western U S. Not sure how much to east.

I did another search on eBay and found the non threaded co2 cartridges.
They sell them in boxes of 30-60-90. I purchased 60 of them and will give them a shot. They are food grade so they should work.
I will give it a shot and let everyone know if they work. I dont see why they wouldnt.

I got some like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Food-grade-1 ... 1593wt_919

More than 30 of the 16 gram ones is 99 cents each.

The cost to eastern U S varies depending on dollar amount of order, but tops out at $14.

I’m glad I saw this thread, because i was looking into the Tap-A-Draft system back when they used 2 cartridges specifically because I could force carbonate. I had no idea that they changed the system so that you can’t force carbonate any more. Bummer.

Hello all, first post. been lurking for about a year now. About the same time I have been brewing.

It is possible to skip the CO2 cart and just use a CO2 paint ball tank with a CO2 reg and paint ball to CO2 reg adapter with this set up. I actuality you could piece this together yourself and save money. it uses rigid tubing and slip on connectors to supply water for vending machines, fridge, etc. I picked it up from this seller myself and it works fine.

Greg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEST-CO2-CONVERSION-FOR-16-GRAM-TAP-A-DRAFT-Miller-Coors-HOME-DRAFT-DISPENSER-/160879233167?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257526488f

[quote=“gregh”]Hello all, first post. been lurking for about a year now. About the same time I have been brewing.

It is possible to skip the CO2 cart and just use a CO2 paint ball tank with a CO2 reg and paint ball to CO2 reg adapter with this set up. I actuality you could piece this together yourself and save money. it uses rigid tubing and slip on connectors to supply water for vending machines, fridge, etc. I picked it up from this seller myself and it works fine.

Greg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEST-CO2-CONVERSION-FOR-16-GRAM-TAP-A-DRAFT-Miller-Coors-HOME-DRAFT-DISPENSER-/160879233167?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257526488f
[/quote]

So, you use the above setup in the ebay link? Can you give us a link for a good regulator and adapter that goes between the paintball co2 tank and regulator?

Also, I read and saw a video on youtube (ill post the links if anyone wants them) that shows a guy force carbing with the new style single co2 catridge system. I am going to try this. From what he said is all you need to do was put the bottle in the fridge until its cold, then add the catridge, wait two days and you will feel the bottle is squishy meaning the beer absorbed all the co2, then replace with a new catridge to force the beer out. It showed him pouring a glass and it looked well carbinated. Ill give it a go.

[quote=“tiltrotor22”]

So, you use the above setup in the ebay link? Can you give us a link for a good regulator and adapter that goes between the paintball co2 tank and regulator?

Also, I read and saw a video on youtube (ill post the links if anyone wants them) that shows a guy force carbing with the new style single co2 catridge system. I am going to try this. From what he said is all you need to do was put the bottle in the fridge until its cold, then add the catridge, wait two days and you will feel the bottle is squishy meaning the beer absorbed all the co2, then replace with a new catridge to force the beer out. It showed him pouring a glass and it looked well carbinated. Ill give it a go.[/quote]

Yes, I picked up the same setup. There is a link for the paint ball tank to regulator adapter in the auction ad if you can’t find one in a local HB shop. Found one in my area so I didn’t need to order it. Any std CO2 regulator can be used. He provided a link the the Harbor Freight unit which is what I’m using since I have a store near by.

Sometimes I will put a few gallons in one of these and put the rest in the keg if I want to get a batch in a drinkable state quickly. Or if I make 1-2 gal batches. Virtually no foam doing a forced quick carb with the TAD system vs a corney keg. No need to mess with the 16g cartridges with this setup and the paint ball tank refills are $3 where I go. Under $20 for the tank ( I have a 20oz tank) I just fill up the bottle, add about 20 PSI and let it get cold. 4-6 hours. Cold beer will absorb CO2 better. I’ll shake the snot out of the bottle a few times for a minute each time after it gets cold before the first pour. I peak out the carbonation by shaking it for a minute every time I go to the fridge. Back the pressure off once it’s carbed to my liking. I’ve used the 5L mini-kegs too (as shown) works fine.

Greg

If I want to force carb one tap-a-draft bottle and naturally carbonate the other two tap-a-draft bottles how much priming sugar should I use?

I have naturally carbed a 5L mini-keg and used it with the TAD system. Used 1 tablespoon of sugar. The plastic 5.7L TAD bottles I’m guessing would be the same or alittle more than that depending on the good yeast left.

Greg

[quote=“gregh”][quote=“tiltrotor22”]

So, you use the above setup in the ebay link? Can you give us a link for a good regulator and adapter that goes between the paintball co2 tank and regulator?

Also, I read and saw a video on youtube (ill post the links if anyone wants them) that shows a guy force carbing with the new style single co2 catridge system. I am going to try this. From what he said is all you need to do was put the bottle in the fridge until its cold, then add the catridge, wait two days and you will feel the bottle is squishy meaning the beer absorbed all the co2, then replace with a new catridge to force the beer out. It showed him pouring a glass and it looked well carbinated. Ill give it a go.[/quote]

Yes, I picked up the same setup. There is a link for the paint ball tank to regulator adapter in the auction ad if you can’t find one in a local HB shop. Found one in my area so I didn’t need to order it. Any std CO2 regulator can be used. He provided a link the the Harbor Freight unit which is what I’m using since I have a store near by.

Sometimes I will put a few gallons in one of these and put the rest in the keg if I want to get a batch in a drinkable state quickly. Or if I make 1-2 gal batches. Virtually no foam doing a forced quick carb with the TAD system vs a corney keg. No need to mess with the 16g cartridges with this setup and the paint ball tank refills are $3 where I go. Under $20 for the tank ( I have a 20oz tank) I just fill up the bottle, add about 20 PSI and let it get cold. 4-6 hours. Cold beer will absorb CO2 better. I’ll shake the snot out of the bottle a few times for a minute each time after it gets cold before the first pour. I peak out the carbonation by shaking it for a minute every time I go to the fridge. Back the pressure off once it’s carbed to my liking. I’ve used the 5L mini-kegs too (as shown) works fine.

Greg[/quote]

I just purchased the ebay setup a few minutes ago. I also purchased the regulator, adapter, and paintball tank. You said you used 20 psi to force carbonate then reduced pressure?
Can you list some good instructions on how exactly you do this? Did you use the carbonating cap that comes with the kit?
I will be trying this as soon as it arrives and I don’t want to mess anything up.
Would it be recommended to chill the beer overnight, then connect the CO2 and let it force carbonate? How often do you shake it?

[quote=“tiltrotor22”]

I just purchased the ebay setup a few minutes ago. I also purchased the regulator, adapter, and paintball tank. You said you used 20 psi to force carbonate then reduced pressure?
Can you list some good instructions on how exactly you do this? Did you use the carbonating cap that comes with the kit?
I will be trying this as soon as it arrives and I don’t want to mess anything up.
Would it be recommended to chill the beer overnight, then connect the CO2 and let it force carbonate? How often do you shake it?[/quote]

The kit will come with a muli-page instructions if all else fails. I do not use the carb screw on lid provided in the kit. I set set up the system as shown in the eBay picture (I used only one TAD at a time as I don’t much space in the fridge) and carb it that way. You could set it up with tank and all or just with the tap without anything else connected while it chills. It wont leak as the pressure port has a check valve.

20-30 PSI will work. I would go with 20PSI the first time. If you bought the harbor freight CO2 reg then that reg is really a flow meter for welding. The gauge is in L/min for flow. Someone measured the pressure with this gauge:

11 L/min - 10 psi
14L L/min - 20 psi
18.5 L/min - 30 psi

I usually don’t go past 20 L/min. My stuff holds up.

CO2 absorbs better when cold. Over night world work but 6 hours give or take should be long enough. When the regulator is turn on you will hear a hiss and bubbles as gas goes in. The bottle with get very firm like a new 2L soda bottle. When the actions stops, shake it for a min or two, you will hear the hissing and bubbles again. The agitation is forcing the gas in to the beer. Do this process and the beer will be carbed up fast. I usually do it twice or three times, (maybe sample it for carb level) come back for another round a few hours later, sample it. Once at the level you like turn off the gas. In between sessions I leave the gas on because it will carb on its own too sitting there so once it done turn the gas off. When flow of the beer is too slow. Give a boost for a few seconds to get some pressure for serving. If you want to relieve the pressure, hold the bottle upside down so the pickup tube is above the level of beer and open the tap. (with gas off of course) Have a container or towel under the tap catch the little bit of bear in the tubing.

Greg

Awesome, thanks for the reply. You answered my questions and im glad you mentioned the regulator not reading in PSI, your information will help a lot.
I should have everything by Friday or Saturday and at about that time I will be ready to bottle my next batch. Hope all goes well. I just wish there were a website or forum created specifically for the tap-a-draft with all these helpful hints.

Thanks again.

Is the L/Min on the inside of the gauge or outside on this regulator?

http://www.harborfreight.com/regulator-gauge-94841.html