So I decided to take the next step to making my beer the best I possibly can! Just thought I would get a quick take on what the guru’s thought of this water profile, what styles would I be best suited for without altering. I have done some research and looks like I need to figure out Bru’nwater, is it a steep learning curve? Thanks in advance for any input.
pH 7.4
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 236
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.39
Cations / Anions, me/L 2.8 / 3.0
ppm
Sodium, Na 24
Potassium, K 34
Calcium, Ca 10
Magnesium, Mg 4
Total Hardness, CaCO3 42
Nitrate, NO3-N 2.2 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 6
Chloride, Cl 37
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 86
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 70
“<” - Not Detected / Below Detection Limit
I am far from a water guru. Still a student myself. Brunwater is pretty simple to use once you get the hang of it. Just read all the way through the first tab (Tab 0). On Tab1 input the info you have above (multiply sulfate by 3). Tab 2 is for getting proper pH for sparge water. Tab 3 you select a water profile from the drop down then change the water additions at the bottom to match the target water adjustment on the top. Try to keep these additions as simple as possible. Looking at your profile it looks like you will in most instances get by with some simple additions of gypsum or CaCl and sometimes acid to get your mash pH in range (which is on Tab 4). On Tab 4 you enter your grain bill to help calculate (with water additions) your mash pH.
Once everything is dialed in, Tab 5 shows you the summary of the additions and an overview of your water.
Once you play with it you will be able to see how changing those things affect your final water profile and it will all come together.
Thanks, I took some time off brewing. 3 boys 4 & under makes getting out to the garage for an afternoon difficult. I want to get back at it now that the polar vortex is making its presence a little less known in this area. Thanks for the break down, I’ll be downloading this afternoon to take a look.
I’ve used the ph strips I use for my pool in the past to see if I was in range but have heard these may not be accurate enough. They always show in range. Any thoughts? Should I be investing in better equipment?
If you get the hang of Brunwater, you won’t need any way to test your pH unless it’s for just sanity sake. According to many others, Brunwater seems to accurately determine your mash pH. I myself have never tested it so I just use blind faith
