Brewing a NEIPA this weekend and I am trying to decide the best way/time to add hops. Is there anything to be gained by adding hops @ flame out and then making a second addition once the wort has cooled to 180-170?
Also, I’ve checked out several recipes and some use first wort hops and some don’t use any bittering hop additions, any input regarding this would be greatly appreciated.
Lastly, I understand that the first dry hop addition should be towards the end of active fermentation, should I remove those hops before making a second dry hop addition? Thanks
I have taken to adding a minimal 60min hop, a more substantial 20 or 10 min hop, and then a substantial hop stand at 170F for 20 minutes. The dry hopping schedule is debatable. Some find biotransformation of hop good and others can’t stand the flavors. The quantity of dry hops and contact is key I find. I don’t see much a of a benefit past 1 oz per gallon and I think I prefer adding as close to bottling. So I add 6 days, 4 days, and 2 days before bottling lately.
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Most NEIPA recipes I’ve studied don’t do a 60 either a FWH or something later in the boil. As far as flameout personally I think it’s better to save that addition for a WP at cooler temps to keep the aroma from flashing off. Although the flame out sure does smell good.
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I think there are a number of ways to approach hopping NEIPAs. If you are looking for a Heady Topper in your face bitterness approach, FWH and/or bittering charges are good. If you’re looking for a Julius/Green/Haze type juicy ale after flameout additions are the key.
I just throw in the hops “free range” except for the final dry hop which I do in the keg in a hop sack.
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I’ve really enjoyed a few NEIPAs in the 40-50 ibu range. I’ll definitely try multiple batches to get my recipe where I want it as far as hop additions go. Thanks for the input.
Another thing I’ve noticed, a few recipes call for corn sugar in the boil. Its my understanding that corn sugar is a good way to dry out a beer a little. Seems like I’m try to achieve the opposite, Whats the benifit?
Any processed sugar added to the boil is going to “dry” the beer and add to abv.
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This is from my Facebook blog
Brewing a hazy beer is easy.
Brewing one that’s fantastic and stays hazy takes alittle work.
Some call it Artistry but the truth is there is some key factors that will help you master the art of the Hazy Ipa’s. First thing is your water chemistry. A sulfate to chloride ratio of 2:1 or higher will tend to give the beer a drier, more assertive hop balance, while a beer with a ratio of 1:2 will tend to have a less bitter, rounder, and maltier balance. I prefer the higher chloride to sulfate water profile when brewing Hazy Ipa’s. It’s not about the bitterness with this style. It’s about keeping it fruity, juicy and tropical with low to moderate bitterness. Next is your grain bill the base for your beer. Pale Ale malt, Maris Otter, or Golden Promise and even Pilsner malt will create a a great base. Adjuncts like flake grains and unmalted grains are very popular because they add body, softness, and fullness in the mouthfeel and help creating the haze. I personally like using Unmalted Wheat Flaked Oats, or Golden Naked Oats around 10% to 20% of my grist. I don’t necessary add these to create my haze although it does help, but more for mouth feel making it soft and silky. Now for the Hops, Some very popular varieties for this style are Galaxy, Mosaic, Citra, Vic Secret, Centennial, Cascade and many more. Just remember it’s not about the bitterness with this style. You want multiple hop additions just not a huge bitter addition. Most of the time my first addition is either First wort or 15 minutes into my boil then a small 30 minute addition and multiple 15 minute additions multiple 10 minute additions multiple 0 minute additions and multiple whirlpool additions. Dry hoping is one of the most important additions for this style. Don’t be afraid to add 4 to 8 oz of hops for a 5-gallon batch like Mosaic, Galaxy and Citra. Normaly, you would always wait for the primary fermentation to be close to finishing before adding your dry hops and there is still some debate of add them during fermentation.
When dry hopping during active fermentation you take advantage of a process called biotransformation. The yeast fermenting the beer transform compounds in hop into slightly different compounds creating more intense aroma’s and flavors. Another advantage to adding hops during primary fermentation is some of the compounds help to create that long and lasting haziness. Start dryhopping 1 to 2 day into primary fermentation and multiple times after primary fermentation up to 7 to 10 days and one last addition a day before cold crashing.
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Here’s ours just to toss a little haze in the mix. It always finishes lower than 1._0_17 so the 4.7% ABV is misleading:
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This recipe is similar to what I’ve come up with, thanks for sharing. What’s your mash temp?
We usually mash fairly high, 154-ish but I don’t have it in front of me at the moment. This beer is usually very grapefruit juice like in color, aroma, and somewhat in taste. Here’s a link to a pic of it in another thread: Think It's Stuck - #5 by WMNoob
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Which of the oils in the hops are you focusing on? I’m gathering a sense that the percentages of oils are a key that needs more attention… Cohum to pinol to geranial and the such… I know I haven’t got the names correct… But enough to help me describe what I’m asking… I hope… Sneezles61
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Great questions @sneezles61. There are a round 250 essential oils found in hops. As of now there is about 22 that are known to give aroma and flavor out of the 22 known oils most late addition hops and dry hopping are about 3 essential oils ( Myrcene ) (Humulene)
(Caryophyllene)
I checked this AM and mash temp is 156 deg F for the Weezer beer.
I’m sure you’ve seen this thing from Scott Janish:
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great resource
Thanks, I was wanting to mash a little higher but wasn’t sure where. I’ll go with that.
Picked everything up this morning
10 lb- 2 row
1.5 lb- flaked barley
1.5 lb- flaked wheat
1.5 lb- flaked oats
Using .3 magnum fwh and 2oz each of Galaxy, Azacca, and Amarillo whirlpool only, and another 2oz each in a 2 stage dry hop. 1318 yeast.
Thanks for all the info I’ll post results when its done, cheers
I’m curious @ Angrybear why flaked barley?
I copied the grist bill from a recipe I found online. The guy at the homebrew store asked the same question and explained why I probably didn’t need it but I was feeling adventurous so I said throw in there anyway!
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I enjoy the “a little bit of all the flakes” approach. You might want some rice hulls because that sounds sticky.
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