[quote=“dannyboy58”][quote=“Pietro”]I am a dedicated BIAB’er, and I will say, liquor/wort volumes take a few go-rounds to get right (with any method).
As far as lifting the bag out, I am a squeezer. I have 4 handles on my bag that I bought from bagbrewer.com. My method:
-Bring all four handles together while bag/mash is in kettle
-Lift them slowly
-begin twisting bag (like you do in the grocery store with produce bags)
-have a rubber band on my wrist, slip rubber over twisted portion. Loop rubber band around itself until its tight.
-If is sparge, and I usually do, put the whole thing in a spare ale pail, pour sparge water over it
-let sit for 10 min
-remove bag slowly
-continue twisting (it actually works for me to hold the bag steady and rotate the ale pail around it to ‘wring’ wort out of mash bag. I usually don’t even need to squeeze all that much after doing this, but sometimes I will place the bag on a canning rack over the kettle and get more wort out.
-add to main kettle (that I’ve usually started boiling) and brew on!
-remember, you can always add liquor to the boil if you have too much gravity. Its useful to think it terms of ‘gravity points’ in the kettle, which don’t change. Example:
-target post-boil OG of 1.050, volume of 6 gallons (6 x 50 = 300 total gravity points)
-preboil gravity of 1.046, volume of 8 gallons (8 x 46 = 368 gravity points)
-your boil off is usually 1.5 gallons per hour, so you know with a 90 minute boil you will have 6.5 gallons. With 368 total gravity points (remember the gravity in the kettle can’t change, as sugar doesn’t boil off), you will have 368 / 6.5 = 56 or original gravity of 1.056
-your options are to throw some wort out (aka alcohol abuse), add water, make more beer, or make a higher gravity beer
-to hit your target, just divide the gravity points by your target post boil OG (368 / 50 = 7.36), so you need to wind up with 7.36 gallons. Change boil or water volume accordingly[/quote]
Pietro, thanks for that Gravity point calc primer! Good info!
I BIAB, I sparge every time and get great efficiency numbers.
Also don’t get why they’d claim BIAB requires a 90 minute mash or boil any more so than a “traditional” mash in a cooler.
Having said that do what works for you! :cheers: [/quote]
I believe from what I can remember, the 90 min boil gets rid of more off flavours and proteins in the wort. But don’t quote me on that, I’m still fairly new to the chemistry of AG.
I would take a look at BIABrewer.info as they answer all of these questions. Also, the BIABacus spreadsheet they have on the site is more helpful for BIABer’s than any other I’ve found (BeerSmith, brewmate) as it was designed for that style of brewing and it takes a lot of the guess work out of the process. As well the spreadsheet does most of the math for you.
I agree that if you want to sparge that’s completely up to you and your own preference, I just know I was able to get 83% efficiency on my last brew with just lifting and squeezing the bag and that seems to be close to what traditional 3 vessel brewers are getting with sparge.
All I can say is check out the site and make of it what you will, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.