I have recently upgraded my brew gear to support HERMS.
Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System (HERMS) for those curious.
10 Gallon Igloo MLT
10 Gallon Mega-Pot for HLT - Northern Brewer (Awesome pot)
SS Chiller for Head Exchange in HLT - NB
SS Pump - NB (they need to add the Pump Holder…)
Quick Disconnect Hoses and Connectors - NB
Dough In at 104 F (using underletting process < 30 min rest for Glucans) - So very very easy now…
Protein Rest at 122 F (only if I have good portion of Rye, Wheat, or other Unmodified Grain)
Beta Rest at 140 F
Alpha Rest at 158 F
Mash Out at 170 F
After doing this, my fermentation has gone into overload (always need blow off tube now).
I would appreciate constructive feedback if you have played around with Multi-Temp Mash profiles.
For most ales I will employ a single infusion with mashout. ALL lagers get a step mash of 145° and 158°. I never do a beta glucan or a protein rest. A protein rest isn’t really needed for today’s highly modified malts and I don’t use undermodified malts.
IMO you can’t brew a lager without a step mash.
Even though most malts are fully modified and don’t need a step mash. I find that a few styles still benefit from doing a step mash. I generally start with a protein rest. If you haven’t read the book malt i recommend it. Having a understanding of malt changed some of my brewing practices. This is my reasoning for the protein rest. Proteolytic enzymes is protien conversion substance in grain.That works as the catalyst causing a chemical change in the protein molecules called proteolysis. This enzyme breaks large proteins chains into smaller protien chains and allows them to enter your finishes beer. These protiens contribute to body and the head of your beer but breaking them down into to small of chains has a adverse effect and will have a flabby body beer with no head or very little. So there is a balance to how long and how small the chains of protien need to be. No more than 15 to 20 minutes protien rest is what I like without adverse effects. By also allowing these smaller chains of protein into your finished beer they also add flavor for instance Munich Helles is the perfect style for a rest and has a taste of these smaller protien in the finished beer. Brewing the style with only pilsner malt Giving the beer the flavor with out the use of other malts like munich that alot of brewers add to mock the taste of these smaller protien.
I can’t tell you if and do the smaller protien exist… BUT, I’m having good results with a 2 step mash schedule… Albeit, I BIAB… I’m getting very good results as far as extraction and the yeast finishing up a bit lower… Seeing as I enjoy a “dryer” IPA, it has worked well for me… 142* for 45 minutes… 158* for 45 minutes… and don’t be bashful rinsing for 1/2 hour at 170*… Keep in mind, if you aren’t controlling pH well, this won’t work as good as you want… Sneezles61
I have always wondered what the Mash Time Max Limit is as I have never had a stuck sparge until recently on my 10 Gallon Igloo MLT brewing in the garage with 14 deg weather outside. My HERMS hoses had ice in them causing a 1 hour rest at 104 (trying to understand why re-circulation was not working to hit the next rest…) followed by my traditional 40/20 rest at Beta/Alpha (120 min total). Guessing that too long a mash may result in stuck sparge.
I also have a HERM system using an electric pot and a 10-gallon cooler. I control the bath temp to ensure I don’t over heat the recirculated wort to the point of denaturing the enzymes.
It turns out I can use the system to do a two-step infusion mash by heating the strike water and step water as directed by Beersmith 2. In the absence of beersmith, I assume you could use boiling water and ice cubes.
My humble system…Mash Control very easy. To keep temp in MLT simply turn off the pump. I am currently working on improving the Sparge to Boil transition (thinking I may need another burner and pump). Trying to avoid heavy lifting as I boil in a 15.5 gal keggle. Also working on an efficient “Chill, Swirl and Drain to Carboy” setup. Also mindful to avoid HSA. Lastly, I like to drain 5 gallons (batch A) from 10 gallon batch and continue the boil for 15 min for Batch B (adding other hops, steeped grains, etc.)
