First Barley Wine

Hello Everyone,

I’m looking at brewing my first AG barley wine in a couple of weeks and was hoping to get a little help on the subject:

  1. The 5-gallon recipe is as follows:

OG 1.1-ish

22.5 lb Maris Otter
1 lb Crystal 120
1 ln Caramunich

1.5 oz Horizon for 60
.6 oz EK Goldings for 20
.6 oz EK Goldings at flame out

Wyeast 1028 – London Ale
(YeastCalc tells me that I will need around 408 billion cells)

  1. I plan to mash at 1.5 quarts per pound at 150* for 60 minutes (have plenty of room in my 70 quart cooler).

  2. When batch sparging, I usually get ~80% efficiency. Since I will be doing this as a no-sparge recipe, what could I reasonably expect in terms of efficiency? I calculated my grain weights assuming 65%.

  3. I usually build my water from RO using Bru’n Water– could anyone recommend a water profile for this recipe?

  4. I’ve read that a two-hour boil works well for this style and plan to do so.

  5. After primary fermentation ends, I plan to rack and lager for about 3 months and then move to cellar temperature for another 6-7 months before bottling and continued aging. I’d crack the first bottle open at around the 1-year mark.

Any thoughts on anything listed (or omitted!) above would be appreciated!

It’s possible you could get the 65% efficiency. Won’t know until you try.

I don’t know of a reason for a 2 hour boil. Unless it’s because you need to sparge that much water to end with the SG you are looking for. If you have 1g/h boil off and you reach your pre-boil gravity with 6 gallons, there is no reason for a 2 hour boil.

Big beers take some different tactics.

If you batch sparge at 1.5 qt/lb, measure the gravity of the first runnings. You may only be able to use the first runnings. Check out http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?ti … _Simulator for more info on the gravity of different runnings at different grain/water ratios. I usually do no-sparge big beers at 50-55% efficiency. You can make another beer with the 2nd runnings if you want.

Besides lots of sugar, big beers need lots of yeast (check out mrmalty.com or yeastcalc.com), lots of oxygen, and lots of temperature control. And lots of time to mellow.

Enjoy :cheers:

Thank you both for the links and replies. I do plan on using first runnings only and was wondering if maybe 65% efficiency was too optimistic - I’ll adjust the grains to anticipate 55%, which only adds another 5 lb. or so.

I had read that the 2-hour boil helps with caramelization and flavor development - not so?

[quote=“Dan S”]Thank you both for the links and replies. I do plan on using first runnings only and was wondering if maybe 65% efficiency was too optimistic - I’ll adjust the grains to anticipate 55%, which only adds another 5 lb. or so.

I had read that the 2-hour boil helps with caramelization and flavor development - not so?[/quote]

Yes it will help with caramelization. And it will thus change the flavor from a 1hr boil.

I’m curious as to why you’re going to do a no sparge. I’m doing a BW next weekend, my plan is to do a big sparge after the initial run off and then a 2 hour boil. I haven’t worked out the details or the recipe yet but I’m thinking roughly 20# of grain, mash in with 6.5 gallons then sparge with ~5 gallons to get ~8.5 - 9 gallons and boil down to 5.5 gallons. I’m planning on about 75% efficiency, if I come up short I’ll add a sugar solution a few days into the primary fermentation.

The main reason for not sparging is that I was planning to try and get a second beer out of the brew day, and wanted to hang onto the second runnings for that purpose. If I were to nix that idea and go ahead with batch sparging as usual, would I still expect to see a decrease in efficiency due to the higher gravity of the wort?

[quote=“Dan S”] If I were to nix that idea and go ahead with batch sparging as usual, would I still expect to see a decrease in efficiency due to the higher gravity of the wort?[/quote]Yes, you’ll see a drop compared to sparging a lower OG beer. For no-sparge, I typically get 60-65% for big beers. You can boost this a little if you go for the longer boil and thin the mash to get the higher volume in the kettle.

[quote=“Shadetree”] For no-sparge, I typically get 60-65% for big beers.[/quote]So do you do a second beer after the no-sparge? If so, what kind of OG do you get with say ~20# of grain, do you cap the mash with some crystal for the second run?

Second runnings usually go for a small batch of “starter beer” - I add 3-4 gallons of water to the MT and drain to a small kettle and boil for 15-20 minutes and then pitch the yeast for the next brewday.

If I want to make a real beer with the second runnings, then yeah, I’ll cap with some fresh grain or make a smaller batch and just steep some crystal in the kettle if it’s needed.

Any time I plan to do a “big beer” and a second runnings beer, I always make sure I have a 4lb bag of DME and a couple 1lb bags of corn sugar. Maybe a bag of D-90 or D-180 or something like that too. These beers can be unpredictable - especially the first times you are doing them. Last one I did was a Belgian Dark Strong and we were doing Saison with second runnings. BDSA came in around 1.1, but ended up low on the second runnings (was going to come in at 1.030 for OG) so we added a couple pounds of DME and Corn sugar - ended up with a really great Saison - entered it in 3 comps. and it scored 40,41 and 40 which is kind of crazy for a beer that we were adjusting on the fly and just supplementing with DME and sugar.

But having that stuff on hand really gives you some fallback positions if either beer is not shaping up the way you had hoped in terms of gravity. If everything goes well - no big deal, just use the stuff another time.

Sage advice.

And thanks again to everyone for all of the feedback. I’m reconsidering the small beer and think I may just focus on the big beer this time around. The in-laws will be in town and a marathon double brew day might get me into trouble! :wink:

Do you have two burners? Two pots? IF so, you could do the second runnings into another pot and boil two beers at the same time - that is what i do when I do second runnings.

Also agree.

I did a 1.104 OG Barley Wine with a Partigyle Mild Ale, both 5g recipes. The BW like I said came in at 1.104, whereas the Mild came in a 1.039 OG. I wish I’d have had 1lb Amber DME for its boil but didn’t. I put it on the Nitro for better mouthfeel. It worked, but it ain’t gettin’ ya drunk any time soon.

I’m doing my first no sparge right now. I figured my recipe at 60% efficiency, hopefully I’ll come close to it, if not I’ll probably add a sugar solution a few day into fermentation. I plan to pull ~4 gallons off the second runnings for a starter beer for some lager yeast.

UPDATE

Just finished the no sparge barley wine, my efficiency was 57%.