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False Bottom for Keggle

What are the better false bottom kits for converting a keggle? I heard some don’t hold together and some have issues with grain passing the screen and then clogging it. I just want something that works flawlessly and cleans easy.

NB sells a good one #7588. I’ve been using the Sabco offering for about 7 years now and they work well too, just twice the price but a bit larger diameter coverage. You’ll get some grain going through virtually all of them from the sides, seams, or just the smaller bits through the holes, but once the filter bed is set up that is no longer a real issue. The only poor performers are the plastic ones.

I have heard that the domed type FB doesn’t work well because they move around. I bought a 16 ga SS hinged FB about 3 years ago from a vender on HomeBrewTalk.com. The one I bought is a hinged 15 inches with a hole drilled in the middle for the dip tube, it fits in the bottom of the keg perfectly. The 16 ga. is more hefty than the common 18 ga and holds large grain bills well. I am very pleased and have not had any problems.[ not affiliated with vender]

http://www.fyurl.com/rr.php?c=2&site=ww ... utions.com

I like the full-width 15" diameter ones. They can’t move around, and I can heat the wort below the screen and recirculate it to raise the mash temperature without scorching the grain.

yep, with the full-width models, and if you have a direct heat source, no part of the grain bed hits the directly-heated areas of the keggle. Good for the direct-heat guys.

I found the one from norcal brewing to be very functional and reasonably priced. It covers the entire bottom. The one I bought from NB is now in the scrap pile.

So the jaybird false bottoms are a good price? I was blown back by the price at first, but then again it is amazing how much a lot of things cost in this hobby. This is the particular item i was looking at, was planning on adding a hinge and contemplating the handle.

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/s ... ct196.html

I replaced my stainless FB with a hose braid. Dean is right about getting small chunks. You can eliminate that with a nylon stocking at the end of your runoff hose though. The other guys talking about direct heating also have a good point.

Still, if you’re looking for flawless function and easy cleaning, go for a braid. Batch sparging is the way to go!

El Capitan:

Is there any issue of the braid being compressed, thus stopping the flow?

[quote=“mppatriots”]El Capitan:

Is there any issue of the braid being compressed, thus stopping the flow?[/quote]

Don’t make the braid too long (5 inches max) and try not to hit it with the paddle when you are mashing in. If you do that you will not have any problems and El Cap is right about batch sparging.

:cheers:

Well, i’ll certainly consider this as an option to a false bottom. The one real nice thing about this approach will be price. What are the downfalls of using a braid?

I don’t really see any downfalls to using the braid. In fact, when you batch sparge with the braid, and combine that with malt conditioning
http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Malt_Conditioning
, you can grind finer and increase your efficiency. I typically get about 85% efficiency with a cooler and a braid, which is better than specified in most recipes. I find myself having to scale back the base malt to fit my system in most cases.

I used to fly sparge with this setup:

and have since replaced it with a braid. I ran a short section of doubled-up solid copper wire in the middle of the braid to prevent collapse. I’ve filled my 10-gallon cooler to the brim a couple times and have had no issues whatsoever.

I’ve brewed with lots of rye and haven’t had to add rice hulls - the only time I’ve ever gotten a stuck mash was when I brewed a batch of Jamil’s dry stout, which calls for powdering the black malt (or maybe roasted barley) in a coffee grinder.

The braid is very inexpensive and easy to make, while the sparge arm and false bottom will cost you some serious dough. My old setup sits unused in the brewing loft, gathering dust, while my original braid serves me well about twice a month.

You can spend the money you saved by going with a braid on a nice new adjustable mill, and you’ll be all set. Rock on! :cheers:

Downfalls? I guess it doesn’t look as nice as the false bottom, but it’s buried under grain the whole time…

The only con I could see with the braid in a Keggle is the amount of wort left behind. The bottom of the Keg is rounded, I have 3 quarts of liquid below the FB and the valve is on the side above that level. The siphon action will draw the liquid below the level of the valve, I only have about 1 qt left after draining.If you use a braid in the Keg it will only drain to the level of the valve leaving a gal or more left in the Keg.I mostly brew 10 gal batches but I have a cooler with a braid for 5 gal batches. The cooler has a flat bottom and drains pretty much all the way, good for a braid.

If you decide on a false bottom I would just buy it and shop around for the pickup tube, valve, hose and fittings.

I am one of those Direct Fire guys, using the large FB with a pump for maintaining temps and step mashing, this has worked well for me.

  Good luck and Cheers, Mike.

So the jaybird false bottoms are a good price? I was blown back by the price at first, but then again it is amazing how much a lot of things cost in this hobby. This is the particular item i was looking at, was planning on adding a hinge and contemplating the handle.

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/s ... ct196.html[/quote]

Sorry it took so long to reply- yes, that’s the one I bought. I got the hinge on mine, not sure how I would use it without that actually.

Thanks everyone for the input. I’m still not sure which way i want to go, but atleast now i have a better idea of what i will get out of a braid vs a fb.

Thanks

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