Ok so.
BUT!
My beer will not clear! it is still hazy. Even after 5 days (Post Ferment) at around 12 degrees C.
This is a problem i have with most of batches. I really don’t want to add finings if i can help it.
Any Help?
Thanks
You have colloidal stability issues still.
#1 Do you use finings in the boil?
If not this will end most haze problems in their tracks. By simply employing irish moss or whirlfloc in the boil kettle, I have never had a need for post ferment fining either extract or grain brewing.
#2 How is the clarity of the wort flowing to fermenter from kettle.
If you are using fines in the kettle and find turbid wort going to ferment then you may actually have problems with “proper” hot and cold breaks and this goes directly into PH of mash and therefore kettle, fermentor, etc… and/or one other thing that comes to mind is water comp which goes hand in hand with mashing PH. If you are extract brewing then water alone will be your #1 suspect amongst a host of other possible culprits if using fines in the boil.
Try a short protein rest. I’ve found that some malts need one to produce clear beer. Maris Otter seems to be one of those that benefits.
I’ve been using Supermoss and it does help but I still have occasional haze issues, but I think some of those are from dry hopping.
I’ve also found that there’s no substitute for time in the keg at cold temps.
Mostly I don’t let it bother me.
[quote=“tom sawyer”]Try a short protein rest. I’ve found that some malts need one to produce clear beer. Maris Otter seems to be one of those that benefits.
I’ve been using Supermoss and it does help but I still have occasional haze issues, but I think some of those are from dry hopping.
I’ve also found that there’s no substitute for time in the keg at cold temps.
Mostly I don’t let it bother me.[/quote]
Man, I have a sack of maris otter that is a nightmare. Dough balls and major haze issues. Don’t even want to touch the rest of the sack. Perhaps I’ll try a protein rest with it one of these days, although I’m on a bit of a lager kick right now so not much interest in brewing ales at the moment.
What maltster MO?
What maltster MO?[/quote]
I believe it’s Crisp.
I have gone through a couple sacks of Crisp in the last 3-4 months and have not noticed any issues with clarity.
Why the aversion to finings? Gelatin is cheap and ridiculously easy (and quick) to use. And it works so darn well, it’s almost like magic.
I always have clear beer, use Irish or whirlfloc in the last 15 min of boil. Crashing at 12 C is not cold enough, go down to 1 or 2 C for at least a week. When you transfer don’t agitate the fermenter during transfer and don’t suck up the trub on the bottom of the fermenter. make sure Your PH is in the correct range at mash in.
Ok so.
my Mash pH is not the problem, i use a combo of gypsum and 88% lactic to hit my pH for my pale ales. The calc’s where done with EZ water. I measure with a pH meter and get to within 0.5 most times.
I get a spec sheet from my local maltster with each batch of malt i buy (I’m located in South Africa) and i determined that a protean rest would not be necessary. BUT! Why not try it next time?
I am also thinking of setting up a whirlpool for my boiler as i go strait from the boil to my fermenter, via the plate chiller.
I really don’t want to use any fining’s as i want to re-use the yeast from batch to batch. BUT, i could just dump the yeast i want to use before i fine the beer, i work with conical’s so this wont be that much of a chore.
As regards to temp. I am waiting for a cold room so until then i have no way of dropping the temp below 12. But i might take a sample and chill it in the fridge and see if it does the trick.
What effect does Dry Hopping have on beer clarity? Something to do with the hop oils?
The subject was discussed pretty in-depth not long ago : viewtopic.php?f=1&t=109563&p=965986&hilit=clarity#p965986
