So I just bottled the batch of Kolsch that I brewed from malt extract. This batch, unlike all others gave off a sulfur/rotten eggs smell while fermenting. It was horendous! And, it was the first time it ever happened. After a quick check of several websites, we figured to just let it go and see what happens. I’m concerned because the beer still gives off the smell, slightly. Hoping it will go away in a couple weeks when we try one, but still worried. Discovered it was the yeast we used, a White Labs German Kolsch yeast. Is this really a normal occurrence?
This is off John Palmer’s site
Symptom: It smells like rotten eggs.
Cause 1: Yeast Strain Rotten egg odors (hydrogen sulfide) can have two common causes: the yeast strain and bacteria. Many lager yeast strains produce noticeable amounts of hydrogen sulfide during fermentation. The smell and any sulfur taste will dissipate during lagering.
Cure: Let the beer condition or lager for a few weeks after primary fermentation.
Cause 2: Bacteria Bacterial infections can also produce sulfury odors and if you are not brewing a lager beer, then this is a good sign that you have an infection.
Cure: Let the fermentation complete and then taste it before bottling to see if it is infected. Toss it if it is.
Not sure but you may have wanted to let it condition or lager before bottling?
Yeah, I’m thinking its the lager yeast I used. But, my first batch (6 months earlier) of Kolsch came out fine, without any sulfuric rotten egg smells. And, the beer was fantastic. So, I’m thinking I just got a different yeast, even though I used the same White Labs number of yeast. We’ll see what happens. Oh, I wanted to mention… after bottling this beer last night, I noticed the color was a bit darker than the previous Kolsch. I used the exact same ingredients. Is that normal? Thanks for your responses.
Kolsch is an ale strain, not lager. Are you sure you’re using the same strain as previously? Regardless, like most lager strains, wyeast 2565 does produce sulfur. Not to worry though, it will abate with just a little aging. A more vigorous fermentation could produce a more prominent sulfur odor.
There are several factors that could account for a dark brew. Perhaps you simply carmelized to a greater extent this time 'round.
Sorry, that’s what I meant. It’s an ale yeast. Here is what I used…
White Labs German Ale/Kolsch Yeast WLP0029
First time around, no smells. This time… lots of smells.
I may have used a slightly different grain for steeping this time around. That could explain the different coloration. Thanks.
Goog News! After two weeks in the bottle I tested one. The smelly smell is pretty much gone. And, the beer tastes perfectly fine. I did notice the alcohol content is slightly higher, probably at 6% or 6 1/2%. Didn’t keep specific gravity records on this one so not sure the exact abv. But, it is slightly stronger than the 5% pilsner I got with the last batch. Thanks, everyone for convincing me not to toss out my brew.
I have ale strains that throw sulfur. Some british strains will throw a little but 3787 Trappist is really notorious for this in my brewery. I believe the best way to avoid it is to make sure you have a very vigorous fermentation so you blow all of the sulfur out of the beer.
All my extract boils are 55 - 60 minutes. Is it ok to go longer?
All my extract boils are 55 - 60 minutes. Is it ok to go longer?[/quote]
It is OK to go longer but I do not see what the benefit would be with Extract brewing. If you would like you can Just do a 60 minute boil with just water and hop additions then at flame out add all your malt extract.
All my extract boils are 55 - 60 minutes. Is it ok to go longer?[/quote]
It is OK to go longer but I do not see what the benefit would be with Extract brewing. If you would like you can Just do a 60 minute boil with just water and hop additions then at flame out add all your malt extract.[/quote]
That seems to make sense to me. Never thought of that. So, the boil for extract brewing is for purifying the water and drawing out hop extracts (or spices, where included), huh? The extract has already been reduced to its pure sugar form. It simply needs dissolved at end of boil. Am I hearing this correctly?
Yes. I have done it lots of times with great results. Gives you better hop utilization and keeps the color lighter. You can start another topic about it if you are looking for more comments on it.
How closely do you monitor fermentation temperature? The length of boil won’t matter for this specific problem; it’s all cold-side. In my experiments with that yeast strain, I’ve definitely noticed the sulfur nose. IIRC it’s quite prominent above 68F. Looks like you did the right thing by just letting it age out, however I would’ve lagered it en mass for a couple weeks before packaging to ensure it would be completely gone.
Also, regarding the late extract addition, you don’t want to boil your hops in plain water. You’ll actually lose a little extraction that way & the isomerization is going to be off. Typically for late addition extract add about half at the beginning & the rest with about 15 minutes left (you still need to sterilize the late addition). It works great for lighter colored beers by lessening the Maillard reaction. If you’re brewing a darker, malty beer you may actually benefit by throwing most or all in towards the beginning. The flavors from the reaction & carmelization of a longer boil are usually sought after in those styles.
[quote=“Ozwald”]How closely do you monitor fermentation temperature? The length of boil won’t matter for this specific problem; it’s all cold-side. In my experiments with that yeast strain, I’ve definitely noticed the sulfur nose. IIRC it’s quite prominent above 68F. Looks like you did the right thing by just letting it age out, however I would’ve lagered it en mass for a couple weeks before packaging to ensure it would be completely gone.
Also, regarding the late extract addition, you don’t want to boil your hops in plain water. You’ll actually lose a little extraction that way & the isomerization is going to be off. Typically for late addition extract add about half at the beginning & the rest with about 15 minutes left (you still need to sterilize the late addition). It works great for lighter colored beers by lessening the Maillard reaction. If you’re brewing a darker, malty beer you may actually benefit by throwing most or all in towards the beginning. The flavors from the reaction & carmelization of a longer boil are usually sought after in those styles.[/quote]
This is debatable. Like I said put up a topic on it and you will see that people do it with great results. You also do not need to sterilize malt extract if it wasn’t sterile then It would be fermenting in the bottle.
Update on m Smelly Smell! The beer is getting better with age. There are presently no sulfuric or other smells and the beer is fantastic. Actually, it tastes better than just about any other brew I’ve cooked up this year. Surprising what patience does for you. Thanks everyone for you comments!
In my experience, sulfur ALWAYS disappears with age. It’s just a matter of how long you need to wait for it to all disappear. Usually it only takes 2 to 3 weeks and it’s gone. In one case I made a beer where it took an entire year for the sulfur to go away. But after waiting for that full year, the beer was excellent. This is the rare exception to the rule. I would say in 90% or more of cases, the sulfur is gone in 2-3 weeks.
Appreciate your comment. That’s about spot on for us. 2-3 weeks and the beer was fantastic. Now, about a month or so, I have two bottles left. I think I’ll crack them open to celebrate.
Yup, the beer is fine. Just needed some time to eliminate the smelley smell! Thanks everyone for the coaching.
