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STC-1000 No power to outlets when cooling or heating?

DIY
#1

I followed the instructions I found on HomeBrew Talk, as well as here on how to wire my STC-1000 temperature controller Controller wiring
http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106821&p=943329&hilit=stc+100+wiring#p943510
. (This is a thread about a Johnson controller, but the schematic is the same).

The controller powers on, shows it is activly cooling (COLD LED is solid), but when I plug items into the outlet, I have no power.

I’ve checked all the wiring against the diagrams multiple times. I also changed out the outlet with another one.

For my first outlet, I broke the “tabs” on either side of the outlet, causing each socket to be seperate. I also wired each socket’s neutral side to the power cord’s neutral wire.

When I changed to a different outlet (the image I attached), I did not break the tab on the left side (neutral side)- but I did make sure to break the tab on the right, so that heating and cooling would be seperate.

I also changed the “compressor delay” to only 1 minute (the shortest amount of time), so that I could be confident when I plugged things in, the controller wasn’t waiting 3 minutes to turn on the
compressor outlet (cooling).

Other than testing the outlet with my multimeter (which I’m not super familiar with using), what other things could be going wrong?

I know the image looks like a rat’s nest, but I wanted to give you an idea of what I had done.

Any help? Thanks a ton.

Temp Controller
http://meandyouis.us/charles/beerlog/2012/01/wiring-for-stc-1000-temperature-controller/

#2

from your power cord that is going to plug into the wall as a power source.

Black wire - your going to have a total of 4 blacks wires wire nutted together.
1 - power source coming in.
3 - pigtails going to stc unit on pins 1 , 5, 7

White wire 3 wires -
1 - power source coming in
1 - pigtail to pin 2 on stc
1 - pigtail to silver lugs tab NOT broken on outlet power heating & cooling

Bare / Green wire
1 - from power source to green ground screw on heating cooling outlet.

Break the tab on the brass side of heating cooling outlet so the two brass screws are not connected electrically.
I’d use a white wire and then wrap a turn or 2 of black electrical tape on them to differentiate them as hot switch legs.
1 - wire from pin 6 for heating to 1 brass screw
1 - wire from pin 8 for cooling to other brass screw

#3

just to clarify “power source in” is essentially a heavy duty extension cord that’ll plug into a wall outlet with the other end chopped off to make connections to the wires inside.

#4

[quote=“travtele615”]
Black wire - your going to have a total of 4 blacks wires wire nutted together.
1 - power source coming in.
3 - pigtails going to stc unit on pins 1 , 5, 7[/quote]

Ah Ha! Thank you! I failed to wire the BLACK wire from my power source into pin 1. I wired the WHITE NEUTRAL wire into pin 1.

I’ll bet that is it right there. I’ll let you know.

Also, I chose to break both pins on both sides, but made sure to wire each outlet with its’ own neutral separately. That is fine, correct? I figured as long as they are getting power in from the switched pin and completing the circuit out through its’ own neutral wire, each outlet should work.

#5

Yes. Your white neutral will just have 1 more pigtail off the wire nut going to the second silver screw.

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