Please Let Me Get Some Sleep

Very Very new to this - discovered Brew TV on my Roku (sad its gone) and within 2 weeks, bought a starter kit.

Attempted Irish Draught Ale last Saturday, but being that my head was spinning, I added the dry yeast (at 74F) before I took the Gravity Reading - so because I then stuck the beer thief in there, I removed a bit of Yeast.

Within 1 day, the airlock was going crazy and I was very happy - then on the second day - it has stopped and the krausen has gone.

I’ve been searching like crazy and read on here that this can be typical for this beer - but was wondering should I add some more? The fermometer says the temp is 66F which appears to be in the recommended range.

Also, I know there are a million different factors that can dictate what FG should be but what is a good range to be looking for when I check this weekend and maybe go to secondary?

Thanks in Advance - I’m loving my new obbession, and all the info that I’m getting from these boards.

Head was spinning from bewilderment/joy at brewing or from drinking too much beer during the process? If it was alcohol-related, a good ROT for brew day is nothing alcoholic until the yeast is pitched. :wink:

Assuming all extract, an FG around 1.015 is probably about right.

[quote=“Shadetree”]Head was spinning from bewilderment/joy at brewing or from drinking too much beer during the process? If it was alcohol-related, a good ROT for brew day is nothing alcoholic until the yeast is pitched. :wink:

Assuming all extract, an FG around 1.015 is probably about right.[/quote]
I typically don’t have my first beer until I start the boil.

Often times, a warm fermentation temperature can lead to a quick/short fermentation. So it’s not out of the ordinary. But don’t be surprised if the beer is still only at something like 1.020, especially if there was some dark malt extract in there. This same thing happened to my dad’s recent first batch of Caribou Slobber. Stopped short at about 1.020 or so. Bottles sure are over carbonated though, that’s for sure.

Very active fermentation can be a sign of high wort temperatures. Do you know what the wort temperature was during the most active fermentation time? The removal of a bit of dry yeast will have no effect on your wort. For the OG of your brew, there was much more than the minimum amount of yeast necessary for a good ferment. I have brewed NBs Dry Irish Stout several times. I don’t use a secondary and the brew is well loved. The secondary is now typically used for dry hopping, other flavor additions, or clearing a very light colored brew. After two weeks in the primary check your SG every other day. When you have two exact readings you are ready to bottle. Use one of the carbonation calculators to determine the amount of corn sugar to add to the bottling bucket. Keep your syphon cane above the trub at the bottom of the primary for less sediment in the bottles. No time to bottle, no problem leaving the beer in the primary for a couple more weeks. Bottle condition warm, above 70°for two weeks before you chill one for a few days for your first taste.
Happy brewing.

Thanks for the info.
I think my wort temp was around 70 when bubbling. But I’m not sure how much I trust that stick on fermometer.
Good info on the option to skip 2nd fermentation. Probably doesn’t hurt to do it though right?
I actually have two 5 gallon carboys cos I’m dreaming of making something stronger that sits in secondary for a while whenever I get rid of the noob nerves

[quote=“Flibster”]Thanks for the info.
I think my wort temp was around 70 when bubbling. But I’m not sure how much I trust that stick on fermometer.
Good info on the option to skip 2nd fermentation. Probably doesn’t hurt to do it though right?
I actually have two 5 gallon carboys cos I’m dreaming of making something stronger that sits in secondary for a while whenever I get rid of the noob nerves[/quote]

Using glass carboys, I’ve found the fermometers to be dead on. The green number is closest, for me, but sometimes it’s between the green and light greenish brown. Best way to find out is to let one reach stable temp, then stick a thermometer in. Don’t trust a sample, though. My hydro sample was at 70, which worried me because the fermometer said about 67, but temp in the carboy was 67.

I’m at the point where I’m hitting my stride. It’s pretty cool how fun and easy it is to brew up a batch now that the dreaded noob nerves are gone.

I’d skip secondary on this one. May not hurt - other than risk of infection - but it’s time, effort, and a little mess. Give your nerves a rest and go easy this time. :wink:

[quote=“Flibster”]Thanks for the info.

[quote]I think my wort temp was around 70 when bubbling. But I’m not sure how much I trust that stick on fermometer.[/quote]Good info on the option to skip 2nd fermentation. Probably doesn’t hurt to do it though right?
I actually have two 5 gallon carboys cos I’m dreaming of making something stronger that sits in secondary for a while whenever I get rid of the noob nerves[/quote]
Fermentations that get into the 70°s are getting close to estery flavor production. I produced a NB Number 8 with fusel alcohols when temp went to high 70°s. Undrinkable. Look up “swamp cooler” to moderate fermentation temperature rise. I use resturant bussing trays; wetted towel or t-shirt over carboy; for super temp control of brews which take a lot of yeast add a fan. The fan will drop the temp 8° to 10°.
Fu Shen is correct. The stick on temp strips are accurate as long as they are not submerged. Getting wet is okay, but not submerged.

[quote=“Fu Shen”]

I’d skip secondary on this one. May not hurt - other than risk of infection - but it’s time, effort, and a little mess. Give your nerves a rest and go easy this time. :wink: [/quote]

Here are the reasons I don’t do secondary aging.

See my signature line for ways to keep your temps down.