I know we were talking about this recently but could not find the post. I substituted half my 2-row for pilsner in my Brewcat IPA. Came out nice. I would need to do a side by side but I’ve used straight 2–row, Munich split ,straight MO . Their all good but subtlety different. Maybe try some Vienna in the next one. What do you all do ?
What hop variety are you using? I have both grains in bulk at the moment and would be curious to try this.
I’ve done straight of all the grains you listed. I like mixing up the various base malts to remind myself what they taste like. There are various levels of residual sweetness and mealtimes that obviously shine.
I have 3 Pilsner malts at my LHBS and have not done the work to distinguish between them but they are different than Vienna and the darker malts.
This is my house beer and I play with the grains but the hops remain the same. 68 IBU
Amount Variety AA Use Time
0.25 oz Magnum 14.1 Boil 60 min
1 oz Chinook 11.6 Boil 30 min
1 oz Cascade 6.3 Boil 15 min
1 oz Cascade 6.3 Whirlpool at °F180 10 min
2 oz Cascade 6.3 Dry Hop 5 days
I’ve been splitting my base malt for a while… Right now, I’m back to pilsner and M.O. This has been the one I like better… From there, then I add my specialties to end up at where ever I want to go. Sneezles61
My IPA grain bill is usually about 77% 2 row, 14-15% vienna or munich and 8-9% c40. I like a malty backbone for the hops to play off. I’m a fan of the Avangaurd best malz pils, vienna and munich but I’ve never tried pilsen malt in my IPA. I figure it’s “grainy” enough with the briess 2 row.
Now there is a fork in the brew kettle… Since I ditched the 6 row Briess, the grainy-ness has since left… OR, perhaps the MO disguises it? Well, either way… From here on out, I’m blaming the 6 row… Final, final… Sneezles61
Sounds like a good beer. That’s 5 gals right?
I usually end up in the same range of IBU. Sometimes closer to 80. I bitter more, 28-30 IBU. Recently I’ve been doing a FWH then late hopbursting and dry hop. I do like the aroma you get from a whirlpool but I feel like the hopbursting aroma lasts longer in the keg but maybe isn’t as intense at the beginning. I may forgo the FWH and do both hopburst and WP on the next one.
When do you do the hopburst?
Divide up all the hops I’d normally do at flavor intervals during the boil and do them every 30 seconds before flame out.
So your 2 oz of cascade I’d do 4 additions of 1/2 oz every 30 seconds in the last two minutes. The FWH gives me the flavor I want like a 20 minute addition and a little more perceived bitterness and the late additions are mostly about aroma. With centennial I get a lot more stone fruit and sweet citrusy aroma. I really haven’t done this MO with cascade but I’d bet you’ll get more bang for your buck. Toss a couple more ounces in for a 3-4 mintue hopburst and 2 ouces for the WP if you want a piney cascade bomb.
So skip the 15 and do an oz at 4 and an oz at 3 then 2 at WP? No dry hops ?
That would work. I do dry hops too.2 or 3 oz per 5 gals.
I could work that into a recipe. This one is a nice simple easy drinker people seem to like it it goes pretty quick I have house guests for Thanksgiving week then more coming for Christmas better brew another batch. I’d like to squeeze in a 10
Why 180F instead of 170F which is what I thought was the volitity temp of the aroma oils. Perhaps I’m wrong
I didn’t know that. I just turn off the chiller at 180 because that was what I thought the threshold was.
It should work at either temp… The heat IS dissipating and I doubt you’d be able to tell if/any essential hop oils were evaporated… Unless your a super taster and had side by side comparisons. Those temps are right “in the ball park” were I whirlpool. Well, sometimes Its even a bit lower too! Sneezles61
Well you certainly won’t taste what isn’t there because it’s boiled off LOL. I may have made up 170F because I cannot seem to find reference to it now. I found instead 147F from here