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How to achieve a great NEIPA?

I’m surprised that none of you were baited into clicking on that tanal link. It was new to me and I promise, despite the look of the word, g rated brewing material.

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Been working on these things for 2 years now. With the help of new equipment and learning from past brews, I think I have nailed it down pretty good. I really need to get some water chemistry software and dial that in but I’m happy with where I’m at right now.

That’s a juicy looking beer and a fruity looking hops bill.

All my suggestions for the OP have been covered. Different hops, a LOT more wheat or oats, chill to 170 for WP hops, load up on DH, drop the secondary and closed transfer.


Thanks for all the responses and yes, that does look like a SWEET looking NEIPA.

This makes sense. My color always looks good right out of the primary, but since I’m conditioning for 3+ weeks, I lose the color do to oxidation. I just looked at my all grain carboy and it’s almost fully amber in color (brewed exactly 1 month ago).
So what I gather is no hops during the boil, most at the hop stand @~170 degrees.
Just do the primary for 7-10 days and do extra dry hopping in the primary.
I’ll do the Citra next batch. Citra is a go to favorite.
When the yeast settles down, transfer right to the keg and pressurize with CO2.
Drink ASAP!!!
I have an extra CO2 tank just to keep my spare kegs pressurized and ready for when space opens in the tap-fridge. Gotta keep the rotation going….
Funny thing is a few months ago I watched a YouTube video from Clawhammer where the guy did an NEIPA and it looked like he went right from the primary to Keg, and then tapped it right away.
I remember thinking did he skip the secondary, or just leave that part out of the video.

No reason to secondary most beers. I actually DH in the keg on most of my beers. If it’s a massive amount I’ll do the first round in the fermenter, second round in the keg with either a hop filter or paint strainer bag.

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When they are alluding to CO2 or closed transfer, this thread reviews that : Transfer to keg under CO2 pressure - #3 by dannyboy58

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You will still want your bittering and flavoring additions. 60min and 20/15 min.

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My IPAs only get bittering and late (5 mins or less) additions during the boil, exception being the occassional first wort hops. So the flavor (15-20 min) are optional in IPAs in my opinion. Most of the hops are whirlpool and DH. I don’t target the NEIPA though.

As @dannyboy58 said, there is almost no reason to secondary any beer unless adding fruit additions etc. With the New Englands, I add first wort hops (rather than a “bittering” addition) to get around 25-30 IBU’s and then a huge whirlpool addition at 170 degrees for 30 minutes. First dry hop goes in primary no later than 48 hours into fermentation and second dry hop right in the keg as mentioned above. Typically, I like to go about 15-18 days from grain to glass and I find that my NEIPA’s start drinking very well about 2 weeks after carbonation!


Damn, I’d really like to be drinking your iterations of IPA!!!

I’d love to get a swap going on here but I don’t want to lead the charge, only participate. I remember when @gregscsu arranged one years ago and I never received my package from sender.

To stay on topic @BrianS I’d also recommend buying hops in bulk if you’re going to be brewing NEIPA’s. My 5 gallon batches were using 13-16oz per batch and now I’ve jumped to 10 gallon batches

Good info here. Just placed an NB order for another attempt at my NEIPA.
Got me thinking about my oxidation problem.
Do you think this is occurring because I’m not doing a closed CO2 transfer, or because I leave them in the glass carboy for over 3 weeks? Or both…
I know I’m exposed to air during the transfer, but only for 5 minutes and I thought because I have the siphon tube sit at the bottom of the carboy (secondary) it pushes all the air out the top, except for what may be left in the last inch or so.
I was under the impression that the glass carboy with the rubber stopper and airlock was air tight.

I recall two guys at the LHB shop have a debate about glass vs. plastic carboys. One guy kept saying the plastic is porous and will allow air in, where the glass will not.
Did I waste my money stocking up on glass carboys?
In the late fall I like to stock pile my basement with carboys to last me through the winter when it’s too cold to brew outside.

A lot of good questions. Re glass vs plastic, makes no difference in this discussion, plastic would be a problem with bulk aging.

It’s good that you don’t bottle these, because NEIPAs are notoriously prone to oxidation with bottling…with very careful kegging and transfer technique and experience you could pull it off, but moving toward closed transfers is your best bet for NEIPAs.

I don’t think the 3 week thing is huge but quicker turnaround with kegging is possible and optimal.

I had some of my bottled versions 4-5 years ago turn purple !!


While I still do not transfer under CO2 pressure I have converted all my fermenters to a bottom spigot so I no longer syphon and I believe I have a better beer as a result as a bottler.
It’s not going to make a difference whether you store your beer in a plastic PET fermenter or a glass fermenter.
While PET is relatively porous compared to Glass, I think it might be a myth that PET carboys allow oxygen in. Maybe over very long times. But in general PET bottles exist to transport and store fluids because they are excellent at this job. Humidity, temperature, and volume stored could effect transmission but not really in a hombrew, 5 gallon situation.


Agreed, in most homebrew situations plastic is fine. I’m really talking about aging something for a year and a half in a plastic big mouth bubbler or similar. …I wouldn’t do it.

and then again, I could be perpetuating a myth :thinking:

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Now would be a good time for Denny to chime in… Just to see ifn yer starting some hair brained idea!! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

These are quick turn around beers. There is no colloidal stability to these beers. Don’t ‘secondary’ them (and I’m pro secondary). When kegging purge the crap out of your keg and keg through the liquid out to prevent as much splashing and exposure to O2 as possible.

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Let me google colloid for you :stuck_out_tongue:
“In chemistry, a colloid is a mixture in which one substance of microscopically dispersed insoluble or soluble particles is suspended throughout another substance. Sometimes the dispersed substance alone is called the colloid; the term colloidal suspension refers unambiguously to the overall mixture. ”


You 2 rockets scientists need to find very simple words… I just spent the last hour trying to say that… word… Then, Squeegee throws it around like is a bag of potato chips!!! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

:joy: basically with all the yeast, trub, proteins from the adjuncts and no kettle finings coupled along with very little long boil IBUs the beer has no shelf life and can turn quickly. :slight_smile:
An old trick that brewers used to do was add flour late in the boil for wits and hefes… talk about risky

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