is on the inside of your fermenter (and it wasn’t there before you pitched the yeast ), it looks like a reasonably normal fermentation. For some yeast, in one gallon kits, 4 days for the yeast to stop showing activity is possible.
Do you know the room (ambient) temperature and/or the temperature that the wort fermented at?
Was this, by chance, the Caribou Slobber kit?
Without much more info, its hard to say… You do have some stuff on the side of your jar… From shaking vehemently ? If not the its possible some krausen from a ferment… Whats the temp? Sneezles61 PS, You beat me to the thought Small batch!
[quote=“smallbatchbrewer, post:2, topic:24274, full:true”]
For some yeast, in one gallon kits, 4 days for the yeast to stop showing activity is possible.
Do you know the room (ambient) temperature and/or the temperature that the wort fermented at?[/quote]
1gal batches tend to ferment quickly because the directions say to pitch half a packet of yeast. That’s still a severe over pitch. A 1gal batch would only need 2.2g of an 11g packet. So approximately 5.5g is overpitching.
Temps are likely the second reason 1gal batches ferment so quickly. Often new Brewers lack any temp control and to complicate matter a 1gal fermenter fits nicely just about anywhere, which most home ambient temps are typically too high.
OP, that looks completely normal. Just because there is no airlock activity doesn’t mean fermentation isn’t still going. First, fermenters are notorious for leaking CO2. Second, the yeast clean up byproducts produced during fermentation long after airlock activity ceases. The only true way to know if fermentation is complete is to measure with a good ol’ trusty hydrometer.
The ambient temperature in the room is 65 degrees and and the temperature in the wort fermented at was 70 degrees no smallbatchbrewer it the chinook kit.
Thanks loopie_beer for the information I will sit a wait till it time to bootleg the product.
I guess I’m just going to have to be patient and wait for it to do it thing.
Thanks - US-05 at 70* will ferment very fast and leave krausen that high on the side of the fermenter. If you can keep the fermentation temperature in the 65* range, active fermentation will take a couple of more days and typically US-05 won’t leave krausen that high on the fermenter.
I’ll agree with @loopie_beer that this looks typical for a 1st kit without temperature control (that was fermented on the high range). My experiences with one gallon kits with regard to pitching rates and active fermentation times are quite different than his.
Two weeks from brew day to bottling day. Two weeks from bottling day to first bottle. Consider settting aside two bottles to open two months after bottling day.
So will one of the forum admins be updating the “Hydrometers You need one, here is how to use one” with information on how one gallon batch brewers should do this? It looks like most of the “heavy lifting” was already done here assuming the one gallon recipe kits come with OG / FG measurements in the instructions.
Thanks for the replies I will have to invest in hydrometer for the next time I make some beer.
I would like to see someone come up with a slimmer, and taller fermenter for onee brewers… Then they can put a well sanitized hydrometer right in there to see how its doing… Simple , eh? Sneezles61
I’m going to suggest spending your next homebrewing dollars on a good introductory homebrewing book (and wait for @loopie_beer to finalize those hydrometer instructions for one gallon batches ).
I’ll suggest “The Brew Your Own Big Book of Homebrewing” (https://www.amazon.com/Brew-Your-Own-Book-Homebrewing/dp/0760350469) $9.99 in eBook format.
Did you not have any krausen going. Looks like you had some action going on. Indeed get a hydrometer or a refrectometer to see if your yeast did something. You did use. Us5 yeast. That stuff normaly works perfect. Did you cool the wort before you did pitch the yeast. And rehydrate you yeast with some water before you did pitch the yeast. Could be you yeast not active enough. But still doing something. Now just wait and see
Yes, but … (and the forum has been down this path before without providing a good answer) … in order to use a hydrometer or refractometer, OG and FG values are needed. When I did one gallon kits, these numbers were not in the printed instructions. Last time I looked, these values were not in the online copy of the instructions.
One thing that will have a major positive impact on the beer when brewing the 2nd one gallon kit is temperature control during fermentation. With US-05 yeast, being able to ferment with the wort temperature at ~ 65* (+/- 1 degree) for the first couple of days will have more impact on the outcome than specific gravity measurements. (note that other yeast may have different temperature profiles .
What you might wanna do get a hydrometer. Look for the recipy on line. Like brewers friend. You get. Og and fg. Might not be accurate. For this brew you did. But at least see if fermenting took place
If you mean OG and FG numbers need to be provided in the kit, then I say Not True.
The hydrometer is what you use to to determine your specific batch’s OG and FG values. And if you look at the larger kits, both extract and all grain, all they really give you is an estimate of the OG. (No FG) Granted, for extract kits OG estimates are pretty much spot on, but for all-grain recipes, the brewer’s efficiency can have a significant impact on OG, which is why it’s often referred to as the “target OG” it is quite common for all-grain brewers to have OG readings several points off the target. My last brew, a 3-gal all-grain, had a specified target of 1.060, but I measured 1.070 in the fermenter because I did better than the estimated 75% efficiency.
I believe they don’t provide OG numbers so as to make the kits less scary for new brewers. While collecting, and using the numbers is pretty easy, understanding them is a little harder.
What’s “not good” about the answers in other forum posts?
Still waiting …
Don’t wait. If you think the post is missing detail, go ahead and add it.