That’s a crappy story
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Well the pump is only required for baesment sewage and greywater output so probably would have discovered the problem next time we did laundry.
I had my mash paddle nearby! ahahaha
Plumber was shocked when I told him it’s the original pump from when we built the house. It’s worked fine for 21 years! Pump is still fine. Just the float switch not coming on. Of course he wants to replace the pump while the cover is off but I see no point in that. If it fials nex week I’ll listen to his “I told you so…” but whatever.
Might not be able to even find a pump with the quality of the old one. There are some made in USA still though.
Yea I was just looking online at them. You can get iron or thermoplastic body ones for about the same price. None of them are all that expensive really…couple hundred dollars…probably pay the plumber more to put it in…maybe I’ll do it myself. Looks simple enough. Just smelly.
Put on yer nose plugs for swimming! Sneezles61
Have you tried using briess 2 row?? I had a bad brew day not so long ago…overshot my gravity because I hadn’t brewed inside for 9 months and forgot my boil off was much less. I also forgot to add the volume of 1 lb of sugar at 10 minutes so my gravity was high and volume about 6.75 gal. About 1 inch below top of bucket. But I didnt use a bucket at first because I wanted to see if my lager yeast was alive and tried to put it in carboy. Well my new funnel for the carboy fell over as I started to pour and made a mess every where. Decided to put in bucket because of funnel issues and found out that it was 1 inch from top. To keep yeast from blowing out airlock I decided to put the bucket outside my house but inside steel doorway leading to the outside yard. I came back to find the spout on my bucket was bumped when I was placing it outside and the entire volume had drained out. 4 hrs of work for nothing. Worst brew day for me.
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Ouch… But you haven’t given up… theres a good sign! Sneezles61
Grainy AF:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: but it’s all I use since I learned Rahr randomly sprays their 2 row with lactic acid…no info on how this affects pH…I prefer consistency in my mash pH.
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Where did you hear that?
On this forum a few years ago…search for rahr, acid malt, those kind of topics
I think there was a blog on it too. Rahr produced slightly lower mash pH than briess over and over but it wasn’t consistent.
Rahr seemed to be higher quality but my LHBS has stopped carrying it and instead is just getting briess and some new brand. He told me there was no difference in suppliers. “Its all 2 row”. I asked him if he brewed, he said he has just started extract brewing…
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My brewing mentor always told me to taste grains. Briess always tasted better…cleaner and more natural to me.
The whole discussion about Rahr vs Briess and acid treatment was probably 3-4 years ago…about the time of the “grainy” comment…
There’s mention of it in this thread…I know there are others. I believe there was info on the rahr website or a distributor’s site at the time. I thought it was common knowledge.
@dannyboy58 with all due respect to both you and @mabrungard the insinuation that Rahr adds lactic acid to their malt has no factual basis. Unless there is confirmation from a Rahr that this is accurate, of course.
I’ve brewed with a Rahr exclusively for a decade and my pH has always been consistent. So if they add lactic acid they are doing so in a consistent, scientific manner.
I reached out to Rahr to see if there is any credence to this.
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I hate conspiracy theories. I use rahr and Briess never could tell much difference. Never did a side by side though. I’ve also used avangard German 2-row which was nice
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Seems all I can get is Briess from the local brewery… I would be willing to bet, the “grainy” description came from using 6 row too… 
Sneezles61
I don’t want to be the instigator of or spreader of bad info so I did a little digging this morning re Rahr 2 row. Turns out according to Rahr it’s incorrect. Here’s a statement on it attributed to Rahr from a reddit homebrewing community post.
"Hey folks, I’ve been using the Bru’n Water spreadsheet lately now that I’ve
moved away from kits and tweaking my own grain bills. There is one
statement in the instructions section in regards to Rahr 2-Row base
malt:
"Special Note: It appears that base
malts from Rahr Malting may be pre-acidified by that company and they
may provide more acidity than expected for similar base malts. Other
maltsters may also produce base malts that can be more acidic than
typical. This may produce a mash pH lower than expected or calculated by
this program. A work-around for this problem is to set the color
rating of the malt about 3 Lovibond higher than reported by the maltster
to allow the program to calculate the correct acidity.
"I’ve asked the people at the Rahr Malt plant in Alix Canada and this above
statement does not apply to them. Here is their reply “. We’re a bit
puzzled in that we don’t apply any treatments to change pH in our malts.
There are differences between our plants based on natural elements such
as barley and water with our Alix plant being less acidic than our US
plants: Shakopee pH typically ranges from 5.8 to 6.1, Alix 5.9 to 6.2.”
Just wanted to throw this information out there and perhaps help others when using Bru’n Water."
So I stand corrected. Maybe Martin will chime in on where he got his info and how it affects the adjustments in Brunwater…
Don’t know if I’d call it a conspiracy theory…just spreading misinformation as it turns out.
I love avangard best malz. I use their pils, vienna and munich. I’d use their 2 row if my LHBS carried it.
