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Clawhammer supply

I agree. It’s just A to A, B to B, green to green… I still pay someone when it involves going in the box. I’ve been zapped pretty good more than once with 120. No interest in finding out what it feels like with 240.

I wasn’t banging on you Loopie… I was hoping to let the rookies know, it’s nothing to go sticking fingers into…
I been tagged by 220 at work… It’s nothing I will want to experience again… Damn electrician said it wasn’t hot… I’m not being trusting… Ever!!
Sneezles61

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Here is the link to Inline GFI cord video

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Awesome thanks

So I could just cut my existing cord in half and install this? Pretty cool. I actually couldn’t because of the wattage. The blichmann boil coil is 5000 something watts.

Don’t think there is such a thing as a 240v GFI receptacle. Look into a spa panel. This will mount the gfi breaker and a receptacle in an enclosure on the wall near where you are brewing.

Yea you are probably correct. As I said I’m no electrician!

I was thinking more of a setup like the spa panel you describe. Didn’t mean to mislead.

I have a GFI breaker for a power washer at work. One could just add/replace this to the panel.

Of course that is an option, if you already have the outlet installed and wires run then changing out the breaker is a piece of cake (provided you know what to do).

If the installation is new then all the options are viable depending upon the location of your outlet and cost.

I’m not an electrician either, but, that DIY 240v GFI power chord looks like a dangerous idea to me for multiple reasons.
(1) Those larger 3 and 4 prong plugs and outlet used for dryers and electric ranges are for high current (e.g. 50 amp) 220/240v applications. The GFCI and wire he is using is rated for 20 amps. The plug allows it to be plugged into an outlet protected by a 50 amp circuit breaker. He suggests limiting its use to loads of less than 20 amps, but if anything goes wrong, that chord could be carrying 250% of its rated current without tripping the supply breaker. Sure seems like a fire hazard to me.
(2) The national electric code for these sort of outlets was changed, in the late 90s I think, to require 4 wire, rather than 3 wire outlets because they are safer, especially around liquids. He removes the 4th prong, effectively converting the safer 4 wire device back to the older 3 wire.

Electricity can kill you, or others around you. It can also cause fires. Shortcuts are not a good idea.

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Thanks for breaking that down.

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Also… Do not buy the cheapest plug and outlet that you can find!! It was either the first or second brew on my kettles element that I found out… It did smell “hot”, I just reached down to check out the connection… Yes, the plastic was melting And if that wasn’t enough, I was stung by one leg… Not nice, trust me.
Sneezles61

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I’ve just decided to go with the 120v clawhammer setup. The time to heat up to mash temp likely won’t be an issue for me as I can get everything ready while it heats. I already had a 20 amp dedicated circuit in my brew area. I decided to run another 20 amp circuit myself. My father who is a carpenter is coming to visit for the twins birthday is going to hook it up to the panel for me. He knows far more than I do about electricity. If heat time to mash or boil is too long for my liking I will just purchase a hotrod heat stick and use it in the other circuit. Being able to brewing indoors alone is going to cancel out any shortcomings of the system.

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Another idea is a timer of sorts… Have your strike water in the kettle before you go to bed (temporary hardness will be gone too) program the timer… Water is at mash temps… Just another thought…
Sneezles61

4 wires is 3 phase

Yeah one thing the clawhammer controller/ inkbird ipb-16s doesn’t have is a delayed start function which would be nice.

I need to figure out ventilation now. I have two hopper windows on either side of where I plan to brew. I could take one out and build a plywood panel with exhaust hole so I dont have to cut into foundation or through rim joist. Vent hoods are so expensive if you want a type 2 (condensate hood). Maybe a bathroom fan with a diy hood of some kind. Or just a range hood. If I use the formula I found wattage of element ÷ 17.6 it’s like 100 cfm or so. Thinking more is better even though there would be a short run to outside.

You’ll have moisture to remove… I think a kitchen exhaust hood is easy to come by… Vented out a window… Take some time to look about… Right over the kettle? No propane, which kicks out a whole lot more than the boil…
Sneezles61

3 phase may use 4 wires, but typical household power in the US is single phase. For the standard 4 prong dryer / range outlet, the four wires are 2 hot, 1 neutral and one ground. In the older 3 prong outlets, the neutral and ground are combined.
Voltage is 220 between the 2 hot wires and 110 between each hot and neutral.

Not necessarily. The outlet for new dryers and washers are four wires and only single phase. Two hots for 220v one neutral and a ground. Single phase.

I found a 300cfm exhaust fan that I’m going to use and place over my BK. I’m going to hard tube this and ‘tee’ into the dryer vent so I don’t have to cut another hole in the house. At the ‘tee’ I’m going to place dampers to prevent back flow into the dryer or into the BK. In addition, I’m going to put another small 100cfm in-line fan in the tubing closer to the ‘tee’ to ensure most moisture is venting out. I also use a dehumidifier in my basement so this will act as a safety valve.

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