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Clawhammer supply

I was getting ready to either pull the trigger on a robobrew or a grainfather (nb 20% off code) but then realized they aren’t really an all in one. They still need another vessel to heat sparge water.

The Clawhammer is more like my current propane biab except with a pump. Price is $899 for 120v. So looking at a previous thread they mentioned the element is 1650w. So I checked and I do have a couple dedicated 20 amp circuits where I could brew. However I have a hydra chiller, and I don’t recirculate and don’t really want the hop basket. So I can purchase things separately and lower the price.

My though was I would get kettle with basket, pid controller, element. Skip the plate chiller, hop basket, and pump (for now). I think I could empty out grain basket and use it in the boil if I was going to add a chugger pump down the road. Currently I don’t recirculate and just insulate kettle outdoors and only lose a few degrees over 60 mins depending on weather.

Anyone see any problems with my thinking?

Basically those are all biab systems which is fine the nice thing is being electric. But really need to go 220v or it will be painfully slow getting to boil. Now we talked about taking your time chilling on @denny latest poocast but I like to get to the boil pretty quickly

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Pod not poo

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talk about a perfect typo! :slight_smile:

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I agree with the 220/240 volts. Especially for 5 gallon or larger batches.

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Alright so I’m thinking about 240v now. I have a 3 prong dryer outlet and a 4 prong range outlet. Now neither are GFCI so that doesn’t work as is.

If I have a GFCI breaker installed in the panel for say the dryer outlet what else would I need to make it plug and play. Thinking I could get a 240v induction cooktop since my kettle is induction ready.

Going electric is like the bestest… IMO…
but having the GFCI is a must… If you don’t/won’t… Do not go this route…
Wish there was a way to expand on this a bit more simply
Geez Brew Cat… I may irritate Denny, but I don’t think I ever poo’d him and Drew! :joy:
Sneezles61

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I’d say stick with your original idea in the OP but go with a 5500w 240v heating element. Swapping one of your 240 outlets for a GFCI version would be a lot cheaper than having a GFCI breaker installed in the panel. Personally, I’d do the outlet GFCI swap myself but would pay an electrician if I had a breaker installed.

It was always my understanding that you couldn’t have a gfci with the 3 prong? I thought thats what the 4th prong was. A second ground. Definitely not advising it, but I use my 3 prong dryer outlet since I ordered my system with that cord and it states gfci wouldn’t be possible with 3 prong. Again, not advising it and I’m only a machinist, not an electrician.

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You may be correct…I’m certainly no electrician either. Could use one of these in the existing dryer outlet.

Yeah I’m not sure however Short Circuit Brewing is putting out a video on an inline GFCI. Have to see what he says. 3 prong the neutral and ground are the same wire. 4 prong neutral and ground are seperate wires. I have a 4 prong outlet at the stove so I will have to see.

Maybe the Anvil Foundry might be good even though I still have to sparge. You can change from 120 to 240 flip a switch and change cord end.

Can you post that video here when it comes out? I’d like to see this.

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Yes I can. Here is a Instagram post if it. I’m guessing he is talking 4 prong dryer/range.

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So basically a build your own of the cord I linked to above. Whatever is most cost effective and works safely.

Yeh I’d like to know if it could work with a 3 prong

MY GFCI circuits are 3 prong

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I’m by far no electrician; in fact I HATE electricity. However, with that said I’ve been helping an electrician buddy of mine for my new system. My 220v/240v required a 50a GFCI breaker. If you have room in your electric box for a 2 pole 50a GFCI breaker it is easy to run. All you do is hook up the white pig tail to the grounding bar as well as the Ground from your 6/3 wire. You then run the two hot loads (red and black) to the top and bottom with the neutral (white) in the middle. Push the breaker into the box. It was fairly easy. I’m running Siemens boxes/breakers.

Yeah I don’t mind it but I don’t mess with anything inside the panel. I don’t know much about code so I just try not to be an idiot if I’m adding something. I don’t want to be that guy that makes an electrician say WTF.

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As creative and crafty as we are… maybe not quite the best info for some…
Inside that panel can kill… Knowing and to be able execute… (No pun intended) is a very dangerous adventure… Please don’t experiment!! 110 can give you a good jolt…
Sneezles61

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I’m not saying if you don’t know what to do just do it anyway. I’m just saying if you watch and pay attention you’ll be amazed at how easy it is to run a breaker.

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