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Black IPA recipe help

Beer Recipe Design
#1

Hello. I would like some input on a recipe. This is my first brew in about 4 years so I am a little rusty. I kind of wanted to do a 21st Amendment Back in Black Clone. Here is what I have so far:
10 Gallon Batch: 21.75 lb Pale Malt
2.0 lb Black Malt or De-Bittered Black
1.5 lb Crystal 45
1.5 lb Munich
2.0 oz Columbus for 60min
1.0 oz Centennial for 15 min
2.0 oz Columbus for 5min
1 oz each Columbus and Centennial for Dry hopping

Not sure about the yeast yet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

#2

Way to much black malt , not enough Munich to make a difference, use a darker Chrystal malt that’s my opinion for what it’s worth

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#3

Only had this beer once and wasn’t a fan. But according to thier site. Pale malt Munich and C-45 and debittered black malt. I agree with brewcat to much black malt in your recipe and needs more Munich . For yeast us05 would work great. Here is recipe that I brew that you might like got gold in local contest Recipe
Type:All-GrainBatch Size:5 gallonsVolume Boiled:6 gallons
Original Gravity:1.063
Final Gravity:1.015
SRM:32
IBU:51
ABV:6.3%
10 lbs 2-row base malt
0.63 lb Carafa II (500L)
0.25 lb Biscuit Malt
0.25 lb Chocolate Malt
0.25 lb Crystal Malt (60L)
0.25 lb Crystal Malt (20L)
10 HBU Sorachi Ace hops (boiled 60 minutes)0.5 oz Sorachi Ace hops (added 15 minutes before end of boil)0.5 oz Sorachi Ace hops (at flameout)0.5 oz Sorachi Ace hops (dry hopped 14 days)Yeast Options: US-05 SafAle yeast by Fermentis,Wyeast 1056, or White Labs WLP001Procedure:

Mash at 152° F for an hour. Mash out at 170° F and sparge with 180° F water to make 6 gallons. Heat to boiling and then add 10 HBUs of Sorachi Ace hops.

Boil 45 minutes, then add 0.5 oz Sorachi Ace hops. Boil 15 more minutes and turn off heat and add 0.5 oz of Sorachi Ace hops.

Cool as quickly as possible to 70° F, rack to your fermenter, and pitch yeast.

After 7-10 days, rack to secondary fermenter and dry hop with 0.5 oz of Sorachi Ace hops. After 14 days, prime and bottle or keg.

#4

Thanks for taking a look. How about these changes?
21 lb pale malt
1.25lb Black Malt/De-bittered Black Malt
1.50 lb Crystal 45
3.0 lb Munich

#5

That looks much better
Your recipe at 75% efficiency
Original Gravity 1.073
Final Gravity 1.014
ABV 7.73
SRM 31.24

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#6

Personally I’d create the recipe as an IPA and add only enough carafa special III to get the color I want. My guess is less than a pound would do it.

#7

And make damn sure its the “special” :grinning:

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#8

Thanks for the help. This is what we did last Wednesday: 21 lbs Pale Malt
3 lbs Munich I
1.5 lbs Belgian 45 crystal
1.25 lbs Carafa Special III
The hops/schedule stayed the same.
It was a good brew day. It was the first one with my new ten gallon system so I now know where I need to fix things. The biggest problem was the screen in my mash tun. It totally twisted and got sucked in on itself which meant it took forever for us to get the wort out. Any advice on a new screen?
I am also wondering about how long I should let this one sit? I don’t do a secondary. I was thinking of doing a month in the primary and month in the keg. Then dry hopping the week before I plan to carb it? Any thoughts?

#9

Try a brew bag to replace the screen.

As for fermentation time, my IPAs get 3-4 weeks in the fermnter then go to the keg for dry hopping 3-5 days at room temp before going into the fridge and on gas. I leave the DH in for the life of the keg most times.

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#10

Is a Brew Bag possible when doing ten gallon batches?

#11

Absolutely. That’s what I do mostly.

This is where I got mine:

#12

That seems awesome! So, do I understand correctly, you have to add more water to your usual amount when using this tool?

#13

Some people do a full volume mash when using the BIAB method, some do a dunk sparge in a smaller volume of water. I use fairly traditional mash/sparge volumes which is what allows me to do 10-12 gal batches in a 16 gal kettle/MT. I sparge by pulling the bag and letting it hang over the kettle as I run water through the grain bed. Works great for me and my current system is designed around the process.

#14

So normally I do just the traditional mash/sparge. It seems like I could continue my regular process? You can still stir and just open the spout with the bag in, right?

#15

On a little bit of a different note with this same recipe…In thinking about dry hopping soon, I just looked at my recipe again which is for ten gallons that I split into two kegs. I was originally going to dry hop with one ounce total of hops in each keg…thinking about that now, it doesn’t seem like enough…Any thoughts? This is a black IPA- take on 21st amendment Back In Black.

#16

I would jack it up, say add another 1/2 oz… The dark colored malt is more powerful than light colored, so I takes a bit more to compensate for that. Sneezles61

#17

You can do like sneezles suggested add more hops to get more hop aroma when dry hopping. I myself would brew it with a soft water profile to enhance my hops already in the recipe then just dry hop with less hops

#18

Alright so maybe a half ounce more in each keg…

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