I recently brought my corny keg to a party and when i was setting everything up i made probably one of the worst mistakes ever. I attached the gas disconnect to the liquid post and the liquid disconnect to the gas tube and accidentally let the corny keg be at a higher elevation than the gas cylinder. When i saw my regulator leaking beer i instantly disconnected it and set it up properly. Now i need to know what can i do to clean the regulator to avoid letting that beer dry up and possible damaging my regulator. I already washed and sanitized my disconnect and my gas tube, but i do not dare dissemble my regulator in fear of breaking it. Also is it possible for that beer to backflow into the cylinder, when the beer backflowed it looked like all of it dripped out of the regulator from a little hole in the back. Was that little hole the regulator’s anti back flow drainage or what. Please feel free to say anything and give me advice for the future.
Your post may/ may not reinforce a topic I had touched on earlier this year.
Question#1 do you have a shutoff valve on the regulator such as pictured below?
Or is there just a barb that the gas line connects to?
I’ll start with these two questions and then go on to solve the issue, also tell us what style regulator body you have I can help with blown up diagrams so you can reassemble the body correctly and we’ll see if this cannot be permanently solved.
If you could actually post a picture of your unit it would help immensely.
I think i may have read that post, but that was months ago when i never even thought i would have begin kegging. When i was posting i knew i should have included that I did have a shutoff valve. I actually have no idea what kinda of regulator i have as some of this equipment is from the early 80’s i have included photos of my regulator. Also the High psi gauge is upside down.
OK, I am on the same page with you.
The regulator you have is one of the most common used in the commercial beer industry.
NB carries the taprite replacement diaphragm kit etc…
But I dont think that’s entirely necessary. Just use the part blow up and dissemble the unit,
clean well and dry all the components then simply put back together.
Don’t let the image throw you off because its “backward” to the one you have. Both of the "east/west"sides of the regulator body are high pressure. One for the high pressure gauge, one for the stem/needle going to the bottle. Just take the regulator off the bottle and reman the thing.
You do have a shutoff style valve, but I dont recognize its style with the long throw “handle” so I cannot tell you if it is a back check that’s on it. (from how beer went into the system I am saying no at this time.) You “could” buy a “back check” valve from a LHBS. But I recommend talking directly to a welding/gas supply around LA and tell them you are looking for a back checking shutoff valve for a CO2 regulator. The shutoff is just for convenience, as I have another bottle for travel purposes that has a simple back checking hose barb w/o a shutoff. The only diff is going to be $6 with or $3 w/o at the supply shop. Because of how the picture lands I will put the parts text in a second post.
Part No. Description
1000P Forged Body LHT
1026 Shut-Off Valve with Check
1010 Seat Cartridge (with O-Rings)
1002 CO2 Diaphragm
1007 Bonnet Gasket
1003 Diaphragm Seat
1005 Bonnet Spring 0-60psi
1005HP Bonnet Spring 0-100psi
1006 Adjusting Screw Button
1001-1A Bonnet, Blue Assembly
1020 CGA 320 CO2 Nut
1025A CO2 Nipple
1024 CO2 Quad Ring
1017 Gauge 0-60psi RHT
1018 Gauge 0-3000psi LHT
1019 Gauge 0-100psi RHT
BTW in the image the “bonnet” or face of the unit is cutoff the part number should be#1001-1A
My prior thread was regarding a three way manifold that LHBS advertise as all “legs” or shutoff valves have back checking capability and they all buy these manifolds from foxx bev, well long story short the one I bought does not have back checking as the three legs are only shut offs w/o back check
The ones that should be installed in my manifold are these:http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-bee ... 00CAB.html
So whatever big bum-out etc… But I learned the hard way from what you/ others may have read
that my kegs “cross talked” because of this BS. Bottom line is foxx or whatever vendor they----not NB but another midwestern store bought the manifolds from just cheaped out and used non back checking shutoffs in that run and/or runs… SO again I now know how to deal with my system and shut off a keg/s if monkeying around with anything, But lesson again today is buyer beware. If it was my coin I would order a back check shutoff directly from micromatic as linked above if you cannot find it locally.
Boy howdy-- Its been a good couple of years since I poked around on micromatics site
they really improved the replacement parts index by adding a tab. It not only includes a great COLOR parts explosion but lists a breakdown of the parts with cost etc… similar in all ways to the above image, but good reference while were at it.
See:http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-bee ... d-842.html
Then goto replacement parts tab----I tried to put the link to this up something about it was strange though so I will drop the image on here anyway—for the parts list you will have to see the above link.
Thanks for the research and post of very useful information, ITs
Itspossible, thank you for you help and knowledge i cannot even explain how much valuable all this information is to me.
Glad to be of assistance,
I noticed your other thread about the craigslist find. Looks like a good unit I like the added storage and space on the top well worth fixing. Plus it not a plain Jane unit it has character.