I see your point. What I am saying is if you have adjusted the pH of your mash water and your sparge water beforehand then you would only need to acidify the mash water. The sparge water should be in a pH range that would not create tannins.
I can’t really as you say “adjust my mash and sparge water beforehand” without acid. My well water is fairly alkaline with with medium high bicarb at 7.1 pH. The other minerals that I usually concern myself with are present and pretty close to what I want for most styles. I adjust mash pH with lactic acid specifically for the grain bill I’m mashing. The only thing I add to my sparge water is lactic acid to lower the pH to my desired target depending on the beer style and kettle pH I want but always below 6.0.
I sometimes use gypsum and calcium chloride for styles like IPAs and some english/irish ales but for the most part I can get the water and mash pH I want by utilizing lactic acid or acidulated malt. I’ve tried a lot of different things. This works for me. Your mileage may vary.
Example: Today I brewed pilsner. I use pilsen water target in brunwater. It’s soft water. Mine is closer to hard. The grain bill is 99% pilsen malt and a tiny bit of carpils because I’m too busy today to do a protein rest or decoct. srm 3.3. Only way to get my mash pH to 5.4 is acid. Today I used a little over a pound of acidulated malt with 19 lbs of pilsen and acouple ounces of carapils and hit 5.4. I adjust my lagers to 5.2 kettle pH so I can’t sparge with 7.1 water. Hence the use of more acid. I’ve used distilled water in place of my water and cutting at different ratios and noticed no difference from using my water and acid. So that’s my process and I’ll keep it til I move. haha
I agree. IMHO this really depends on your 'sparge" style. Acidifying BATCH sparge is not nearly as important as a fly sparge. Due to the increased time of contact with water:grain during fly sparging treating sparge water is very important.
Also of importance is detailing YOUR style of brewing while you make statements as people rely on this info.
I get your points. I was making my comments as a batch sparger. I do have the opportunity to add my acid to my mash water only and sparge with water that has been adjusted, but no acid added.
Thanks for the good back and forth responses.
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I do BIAB… As I set up and gather my stuff, I do treat my strike water… For light colored brews, my pH is corrected to 5.8- 6.0 … Lactic acid and even citric acid are my two candidates… I’ll treat 13.5 gallons… Once I’m there, mash in… I don’t worry if I’m under temp, electric kettle is easy to get to my desired temp…
I believe years ago when I used a mash-tun and didn’t pay attention to pH, my brews where a bit harsh… Not the dark ones tho…
So I really enjoy what comes out of my taps now… And so do many others… pH does matter… Start to finish in the mash process… I really can’t stress this enough… Hey, the new T-shirt! pH matters… Sneezles61
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Count me in! 
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That looks delicious.
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Not sure what I’am drinking but it is good. Drinking a glass in Paris, France[Uploading…]
Guess it didn’t work
Probably wine
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Hole in the market. New style beer. Me had one stout. Who i could not get right. On the end went down the drain
Drinking my BrewCat WIPA w/Mandarin Bavaria Hops after a few hours cutting firewood
For a minute I thought you said driving drinking buddy 
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In the future you have to wait for the upload to complete before hitting “reply” to post.
The Strong Rope Brewery recipe at my LHBS Bitter and Esters, JJ Bollerack’s Big Brown Ale. Bottle conditioned just in time for the cold and wet fall descending on NYC
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Nicely done
Mine came out a little lighter. I’m planning a dark saison/wine blend using some of my Pinot noir
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Its intersting to see beers force carbonated vs bottle carbonated.
