Danny, here’s a link to the original build from last year in this forum: My Electric Brewing Cart. I realized that I posted this before the Forum format change, and now it looks like the pictures aren’t there anymore. I’ll repost some of the pictures here.
I have 2 PID’s hooked up, but the second one only serves to monitor my mash temp and making sure my strike water temperature is correct before adding the grains. The middle device is a timer delay for the HLT PID in case I want to set up the night before and wake up to the strike water already heated and at temp. The subpanel with the 2 30amp DPDT breakers is attached to the bottom of the control box (you can just see a bit of it under the display panel). A wiring diagram would probably be very confusing with the number of wires I have in there, but with the control box open, you can see the terminal strips behind the PID’s (under the bar), then the SSR and SSVR with accompanying heat sinks to the left of the terminal strips. The fan is attached to the side panel at the top of the picture right next to the heat sinks. Immediately to the left of the SSR is a contactor for additional safety and other purposes. This is a big electromagnetic switch that is controlled by one of the PID relays. I set the relay “alarm” on the PID to go off when the HLT temperature is reached as the PID itself is not great at stopping at an exact temperature on the SV (Set Value) setting. The contactor also shuts off power to both of the 220v hot wires to the outlet for the HLT for safety when the alarm temperature is reached. All the way to the left (at the back of the control box) are the outlets for the plugs for the HLT and BK. In between those is a 110v outlet to run a pump. I’ve made changes to it since, but this is still the same basic set up. I run 4500w heating elements in my kettles for 5 gallon batches, but you can easily run 5500w with a 30 amp setup and probably have enough power to do 10 gallon batches.
