Another CO2 leak

Kegging
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I use a brass Y valve with a second Y valve to get three for the triple tower on my kegorator. A little pipe dope helps keep it sealed. Right now there is a ten gallon keg in there so only the single valve is on the regulator. Less chance for a leak. I carb in a spare fridge with only a single line and different tank/reg or prime the keg.

i also have gone through mystery leaks that drive you nuts. No fun. My little 2.5lb “emergency” tank is at the CO2 dealer right now to be hydrostatic tested and filled. That one is the last resort if all the others are empty.

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When I got the maniforld I was thinking I could shut off the lines that weren’t in use making it less prone to leaks…didn’t work out that way.

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I’ve fallen into the same issues on many things. Just gotta buy that shinny thing!!!

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I’ve got that same 3 way splitter… Well added another one way valve so now its a four way splitter… I don’t have any problems… Sneezles61

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I recently had CO2 Leaks.
1.) Money Lost on C02
2.) Kegs not carbonated
3.) Confusion over what happened

Home brewer’s nightmare…

What I have done recently.

1.) Purchased Oetiker Clamp Tool and Clamps (kegoutlet.com). Hey NB, are you selling this???
2.) Run a series of tests outside the beer frig and/or keezer
3.) For each test I open the main valve then close it. Note valve positions…

  • Test with all valves off for 20 min (Problem with CO2 Tank?)
  • Test Each Circuit (No Kegs attached) with valves open
  • Test with Kegs attached (disconnects have 3 parts that can fail that need to be checked as well)
  • Apply keg grease on every part

So far this has taken the mystery out of this nightmare scenario and has worked

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I started replacing worm gear clamps with oetikers a few years ago as necessary. They are pretty much bomb proof. I haven’t had a clamp fail in a while but replaced all the ones on those red lines when I removed the manifold.

My leak testing has evolved, or devolved depending upon your opinion to simple submersion. I test any potential leak point by submersing it in a bucket of water with the gas on.

Quick, easy and painfully obvious I start with the QDs and work my way back to the cylinder. I dry out the gauges lightly with compressed air afterward. This time I dunked the valve just below the low pressure gauge but didn’t go any higher since I’d tested that all a few months ago. Pretty confident the manifold was the problem.

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I do the submersion test as well where I can.
Don’t want to try that on the regulator which can also leak.

Anyone not using Oetiker clamps need to check it out.
Small investment with big results.

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I have always used soapy water and a spray bottle to check for leaks. I might look into the Oetiker clamps though. Never could figure out how to get them off without a lot of work, this helps Removal of Oetiker clamps Viking Aircraft Engine for sport type aircraft - YouTube

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Easiest way to remove an oetiker is just to cut the line behind the clamp.

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Really shouldn’t need to alter much on the gas side… Would ya? Sneezles61

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Used my star San spray bottle earlier today.
Regarding the video, cool, just peel em’ off. However…Here, still using guitar pick and regular worm clamps…

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And your playing? Sneezles61

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Yep. Currently the Rain Song by Led Zep. (But not with the clamp)

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Jed Clampit? :joy: Sneezles61

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Oetiker clamps are easily removed with th clamp tool by cutting through the ear of the clamp
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=How+to+Remove+Oetiker+Clamps&&view=detail&mid=8FEDA83D9A89D535FADF8FEDA83D9A89D535FADF&&FORM=VRDGAR

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Yea I use a small end cut nipper to squeeze them shut and to grab the end and pull it off if I ever need to remove one.

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I’ll need to look a little closer at this… I got the crimp clamps for plumbing… Perhaps that tool will work on Oetiker clamps… I don’t really like the “tails” you get from worm gear clamps… Looks very… shall I say… cheesey? Sneezles61

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