Back to Shopping at NorthernBrewer.com

Using acid malt

I am not adding anything else to my mash water.
I check pH with test strips.
I add two teaspoons phosphoric acid to my sparge water, again this is due to the higher pH of my city water. That’s all I do other than carbon filter the Brewing water.

The pH of my water is 7 and I need to add more acid malt than that. Adding additional acid to your sparge won’t accomplish much better to add it to the mash

1 Like

Correct pre-mash…
Sneezles61

Pre mash pH doesn’t matter all that much. I
Mash pH depends on you water and grist. @oldgregg May be using a grist with more crystal malt that would assist in dropping the pH.

1 Like

I’m concerned your pH strips are leading you astray. That doesn’t sound like nearly enough acid malt for that type of beer and that high pH. Mine is 7.1 and I’d use closer to 8 ounces in a light colored beer like that.

I never had any luck using pH strips to test.

I also treat my sparge water with acid just to get the kettle pH where I want it.

I never bother with my kettle pH why not just add it to your kettle. And if you adjust your mash pH doesn’t your kettle follow.

1 Like

I understand yeast like a certain pH… What that is, I don’t know… BUT, like Brew Cat, I adjust for the mash…nothing else…
How much correction? I’ve said before… In the summer, it rains and leaches minerals into the soil/aquafer so it takes more to correct… The winter, I usually over correct so I have to back it up with baking soda…
One water test will tell you alot, but not what’s in your water a year or so later.
Get a good meter… Take the time to learn how to calibrate and store it…
As my strike water is heating, that is when I calibrate, test and correct to the best of my knowledge… Then test 20 minutes into mashing. No acid malt here.
Sneezles61

2 Likes

I admire your mastery and patience with your pH meter…I gave up after a few attempts back in 2016, probably should have sent it back, but I have no patience with that.
I rely heavily on my water report and the brewing software to guide my additions and I’ve been extremely happy with the result. No dull lifeless beers, no off tastes, a good long run of nice product…until my wife uprooted me from the old house.
My first brewday at the Rockledge Florida house is drawing nearer…for old times sake (and since our LHBS went belly up last month) I’m thinking about a reprisal of Caribou Slobber, the first beer I ever brewed…And I can order it from our host!

6 Likes

I always adjust kettle pH to 5.2 for lagers. Honestly, I forget why and I’m too lazy to look it up right now. I’m not as diligent with my ales but usually adjust the sparge to 5.4-5.6 anyway.

I’ve used a meter off and on for years. I don’t rely as heavily on it since I am also very comfortable with the accuracy of Brunwater. My well water changes throughout the year as well but I’ve found the difference of .2-.3 ph to be negligible.

2 Likes

I leave it up to my water report. I use basically to profiles one for hoppy one for malty. Put in my recipe with 3 or 4 Oz’s of aciduated malt. See what’s predicted. Then add more or less. I used to have a meter but only miss it for sours. I collect 8 gallons of water and treat it all then just brew no more testing. I don’t know what more testing would tell me

1 Like
Back to Shopping at NorthernBrewer.com