Thinking About Buying Oxygen... Is it worth it?

The tank can cost between $70-$100.

The regulator may run around $50.

The then other parts.

You might be able to piece it together for less than the HBS price. But then there a many things people buy at the shops that you can put together for less. Sometimes you are paying for convenience.

Your saving will come in refilling the tank. As they say, $12 to fill the 20cf tank. Verse $10 for the 1.4oz tank. It probably pays for itself after the 1st refill.

edit: correct the mini tank size from 14 to 1.4oz

What kind of canister? The single use kind? How are you disposing of it?

What kind of canister? The single use kind? How are you disposing of it?[/quote]

Like this…

I get it at my local hardware store and it lasts around 10-15 batches. My O2 kit (with a stone on the end of the hose) fits the opening on the top of the canister. When it’s empty, I recycle it.

[quote=“Ken Lenard”]

Like this…

I get it at my local hardware store and it lasts around 10-15 batches. My O2 kit (with a stone on the end of the hose) fits the opening on the top of the canister. When it’s empty, I recycle it.[/quote]

Exactly like that. You just chuck it in your recycling bin? Do you cut it in half or drill a hole, or do any other physical modification to it before you chuck it? Or do you take it someplace special?

I thought this is a helpful interview.
This is what the founder of Yeast says.

David Logsdon of Yeast.

When yeast cells enter dormancy the have very little Sterols. In ideal worst with enough oxygen they will produce about 1% of cell mass into sterols. This is like a full tank of gas. As the cell grows and takes up nutrients the sterols are depleted. Also when a cell buds off a daughter cell it gives half of the sterols to the daughter cell. With out proper oxygen the cell will start out with less than a full tank and run out after just budding 2 or 3 times. This will cause high finishing gravity and stuck fermentation.

An adequate number of healthy yeast cells and dissolved oxygen is what brewers have to deal with. If they do it correct the yeast will come to terminal gravity just when the yeast runs out of gas.

My research into oxygenation is that it can reduce lag but I never found any info relating to improved beer quality. Shaking provides the minimum 8ppm of dissolved O2 required for proper yeast health. Works well for me.

[quote=“DUNNGOOD”]I thought this is a helpful interview.
This is what the founder of Yeast says.

David Logsdon of Yeast.

When yeast cells enter dormancy the have very little Sterols. In ideal worst with enough oxygen they will produce about 1% of cell mass into sterols. This is like a full tank of gas. As the cell grows and takes up nutrients the sterols are depleted. Also when a cell buds off a daughter cell it gives half of the sterols to the daughter cell. With out proper oxygen the cell will start out with less than a full tank and run out after just budding 2 or 3 times. This will cause high finishing gravity and stuck fermentation.

An adequate number of healthy yeast cells and dissolved oxygen is what brewers have to deal with. If they do it correct the yeast will come to terminal gravity just when the yeast runs out of gas.[/quote]
Yeah, that’s good. I mentioned how this could be “fine-tuning” because when you’re a new(er) brewer, there are so many things to consider and something like oxygenation of the wort is usually not mentioned as a part of “beginning homebrewing”. Clearly, not everything involved in making beer can be jammed into someone’s brain all at the same time otherwise our brains would explode. But this is an important topic and one worth looking into. We feel like we have so much control over pieces of our brewing (recipe formulation, using good, fresh ingredients, monitoring our mash pH and temps, water composition, etc.) but when we pitch the yeast into the wort, many of us feel like Well… it’s out of our hands now! because the yeast is doing its own thing and we have very little control over it. The best way to control it (or feel like you have some control) is to pitch the right amount of healthy yeast, control your fermentation temps and give the yeast the best environment you possibly can… and oxygen is one of those ways.

What kind of canister? The single use kind? How are you disposing of it?[/quote]

Like this…

I get it at my local hardware store and it lasts around 10-15 batches. My O2 kit (with a stone on the end of the hose) fits the opening on the top of the canister. When it’s empty, I recycle it.[/quote]

Ditto. The regulator is a PITA to thread on it.if you see large bubbles coming out of the carboy, that means the gas is turned up too high and more is escaping than infusing. Turn the regulator until you just see effervescent bubbles coming out.

Btw, I don’t do anything to the canister when it’s empty… I just put it into the recycling bin. I asked the people at the hardware store about it and they said it was fine to recycle and that no other special instructions apply.

I haven’t done any formal research, but if I really puckered up, let the beer warm slightly, I could taste this common flaw in many of my beers. It was very small, but just not a flavor I get in commercial beers. When I began using pure O2, this minute flavor dissappeared. I believe now I have happier yeast. The flaw was more common in my lagers, but also reared its head in my ales from time to time.

I also shook for 45 sec before btw.

I haven’t done any formal research, but if I really puckered up, let the beer warm slightly, I could taste this common flaw in many of my beers. It was very small, but just not a flavor I get in commercial beers. When I began using pure O2, this minute flavor dissappeared. I believe now I have happier yeast. The flaw was more common in my lagers, but also reared its head in my ales from time to time.

I also shook for 45 sec before btw.[/quote]Thanks for that. If I was gonna use O2 it would be for lagers. From memory, the shorter the lag the less SO2 compounds (more is absorbed) which will be evident in a pils than an IPA. I think oxygenating (shaking) is just one of the few lucky benefits of brewing smaller than pro. That said, I do plan to try it someday.

I haven’t done any formal research, but if I really puckered up, let the beer warm slightly, I could taste this common flaw in many of my beers. It was very small, but just not a flavor I get in commercial beers. When I began using pure O2, this minute flavor dissappeared. I believe now I have happier yeast. The flaw was more common in my lagers, but also reared its head in my ales from time to time.

I also shook for 45 sec before btw.[/quote]Thanks for that. If I was gonna use O2 it would be for lagers. From memory, the shorter the lag the less SO2 compounds (more is absorbed) which will be evident in a pils than an IPA. I think oxygenating (shaking) is just one of the few lucky benefits of brewing smaller than pro. That said, I do plan to try it someday.[/quote]

This is so true. When I did my first lager with O2, The beer tasted so clean as it came out of the primary.

And the general rule of thumb is 60 seconds of effervescent bubbles, more if the gravity is higher?

You might just get me to try this if it shortens lagering (main reason I don’t brew em)

I love fresh NGP :cheers:

I typically go 60 seconds on “new yeast” like from a starter and less time on slurry… more like 30 seconds or so. I’m not sure if this is correct thinking but I always assume that yeast that just came from a starter need a bigger boost than established yeast that has already been up & running. I may be cheating myself because some have suggested that 2-3 minutes of O2 is better. Sounds like a lot to me but I have never heard that you can overdo the O2. I also hit the starter wort with some O2 as well but I have heard that you should not add the yeast to the starter wort and THEN use the O2 because it’s too intense for the yeast to have that direct contact with pure O2. So instead I hit it with 20-30 seconds of a very fine stream of O2 and then pitch.

I JUST bought (and received a few days ago) the William brewing wand thing. THANK YOU Father’s Day and my wonderful wife…

Anyway, the instructions that came with it stated 30 seconds, but it seems like I would want to go at least 45 sec to a minute wouldn’t I? 30 sec seemed a bit short based on what I have read and researched.

thoughts?

I’m pretty sure someone will post the bit from Chris White’s Yeast book, but my norms are:

45sec low gravity or ales I want increased esters (weissbier)
60sec normal gravity ales
90sec higher gravity ales
120sec lagers

I turn the valve down as low as possible.

The dreaded double post!!!

[quote=“fullhousebrew”]I JUST bought (and received a few days ago) the William brewing wand thing. THANK YOU Father’s Day and my wonderful wife…

Anyway, the instructions that came with it stated 30 seconds, but it seems like I would want to go at least 45 sec to a minute wouldn’t I? 30 sec seemed a bit short based on what I have read and researched.

thoughts?[/quote]

Like the instructions for brewing beer, read then forget what the store gives you. :slight_smile:

brewingdan’s post seems reasonable. But then 30 sec might be fine.

Find out what works for you.