[quote=“Glug Master”]Yes, it’s definitely worth it though it does add a couple more hours to your brew session, so if time is a consideration for you it may not be. A 6 lb jug of extract is $16, buying 2-row base malt by the sack I can get the same yield for around $6 , specialty grains will be the same unless you buy them in bulk too. Even not buying base malt in bulk it’s still considerably less.
I batch sparge with a cooler the Denny way but as mentioned above, bag brewing is pretty popular and efficient. I’ve yet to try it but from my understanding all you need is a pot, a burner and a large straining bag. You can pick up 10 gallon aluminum pot for cheap, like this one for $32
. Your only real expense from there is a burner and a mill if you buy grain by the sack, you can get a Cereal Killer mill for a hundred bucks at Adventures in Homebrewing.[/quote]
Thanks so much for this link for a cheap kettle! I was looking to save up for this last item on my AG equipment list and the megapot on NB is like $200! Is the ball valve on the brew kettle that worth it? But this recommendation is great!
And I agree with everyone else: a trip to HomeDepot and a visit to Denny’s site and I saved about $200 compared to what the “pro” advice from the LHBS told me.
[quote=“masquelle”]Indeed, I am! cheap and easy question…
Is the ball valve on the brew kettle worth it?
I can go cheap with the recommended $40 kettle
or
Go easy with a ball valve kettle for $150.
Worth the extra hundred or so? Even in the long run?[/quote]
You can get a weldless bulkhead with ball valve for about $30, just look around brew sites for the best deal. I usually use these: http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=91
. If you have a step bit you can drill and install yourself. The last one I did took all of 3 minutes to drill and install.
Today I brewed another dry irish stout as I did a year ago at this time - then, it was my first all grain. I was skeptical about how much of an improvement it would be - most said it wasn’t so much a qualitative difference as a matter of control over the process. IMHO, it is a qualitative difference and I’m never going back. There is an extra tax to pay and that is time.
+1 to the advice regarding the LHBS’ all grain starter kits- the mark up on the cooler(s) alone is shameful.
+1 to Denny, his website, and batch sparging.
Last note - I’m a big advocate of Spike brewing’s kettles. Quality and a better price than most.
[quote=“jtb”]Today I brewed another dry irish stout as I did a year ago at this time - then, it was my first all grain. I was skeptical about how much of an improvement it would be - most said it wasn’t so much a qualitative difference as a matter of control over the process. IMHO, it is a qualitative difference and I’m never going back. There is an extra tax to pay and that is time.
+1 to the advice regarding the LHBS’ all grain starter kits- the mark up on the cooler(s) alone is shameful.
+1 to Denny, his website, and batch sparging.
Last note - I’m a big advocate of Spike brewing’s kettles. Quality and a better price than most.[/quote]
If it is well brewed I doubt you can tell much of a difference between extract and all grain for certain beers.
Most people switching think there is a huge difference mainly because it is newbs doing extract and people that are more seasoned and dedicated to the hobby convert to AG.
Some well known homebrewers have proved that also in competitions. Look at Steve piatz lambics.
I saw a huge improvement in beer quality when I switched to AG. I did 17 extract batches and then made the switch. Was it all due to AG? Maybe, maybe not. I had already been doing full-volume boils, chilling with a chiller, making yeast starters, etc.
My sister brews extract and partial mash, and those beers are great too. But I agree with jtb - I think there’s a big difference in quality and I don’t plan to brew extract again.
Add to that the cost savings and there’s just no question. I think AG is nearly 1/2 the cost of extract.
That’s a great idea, Denny. But I’m not so skilled for metal work and I’d probably mess it up!
I guess for either the cost or the effort, does having a ball valve on your kettle make a big difference on brew day? I would imagine not having to pick up and pour 5.5gal of wort being worth it!
[quote=“masquelle”]That’s a great idea, Denny. But I’m not so skilled for metal work and I’d probably mess it up!
I guess for either the cost or the effort, does having a ball valve on your kettle make a big difference on brew day? I would imagine not having to pick up and pour 5.5gal of wort being worth it!
Y’all’s thoughts?[/quote]
Yeah, to me it makes a big difference. I am probably the world’s least handy person (and I absolutely hate building equipment!), but all it took for me was a step bit to cut the hole and a wrench to tighten the fitting. Believe me, if I can do it , anybody can do it!
This is a debate I’m currently struggling with myself. I have been extract brewing for the past year and have been reading and learning as much as I can about the entire process. I already have a 10 gallon pot, a burner, and a chiller so the transition should be fairly inexpensive for me, especially if I started with BIAB and then moved to Denny’s batch sparging method. My main question is how much additional time will I realistically need to make the switch? Right now it typically takes me 3-3.5 hours from starting to get the equipment out to being cleaned and put away after my brew session.
I am guessing All Grain would essentially add roughly 2 hours to my brew session? Is this an accurate estimate? Time is the ONLY thing holding me back at the moment as with three kids I haven’t been able to justify extra time for a brew session. . .yet. Realistically between my chiller and kegging, I have knocked 3-4 hours out of each batch of beer already. I really want to get to All Grain because the process intrigues me and it seems a wonderful way to continue to learn about my hobby that I enjoy so much as it is.
[quote=“Radagast”]This is a debate I’m currently struggling with myself. I have been extract brewing for the past year and have been reading and learning as much as I can about the entire process. I already have a 10 gallon pot, a burner, and a chiller so the transition should be fairly inexpensive for me, especially if I started with BIAB and then moved to Denny’s batch sparging method. My main question is how much additional time will I realistically need to make the switch? Right now it typically takes me 3-3.5 hours from starting to get the equipment out to being cleaned and put away after my brew session.
I am guessing All Grain would essentially add roughly 2 hours to my brew session? Is this an accurate estimate? Time is the ONLY thing holding me back at the moment as with three kids I haven’t been able to justify extra time for a brew session. . .yet. Realistically between my chiller and kegging, I have knocked 3-4 hours out of each batch of beer already. I really want to get to All Grain because the process intrigues me and it seems a wonderful way to continue to learn about my hobby that I enjoy so much as it is.
:cheers:
Rad[/quote]
first few AG took a while longer, now I can get em knocked out in bout 4hr
Just one final push for brew in a bag…my brew days take 3-3.5 hours, from pulling my stuff out to being on the couch with a beer…and I do a mashout, sparge, sometimes a decoction, and a 90 minute boil most of the time.
One of the best investments I made is a good burner. I have a blichmann, and I can go from water out of the tap to strike temp in about 10 minutes, then from mash temp of full volume to boiling in about 20 minutes. The whole process in one kettle, no stuck sparges/lauters, no cooler for my wort to leech plastic compounds off of… :mrgreen:
My beer pretty consistently scores in the mid-high 30’s in comps, with an occasional one north of 40…and I like drinking it too!
Oh and also, weldless valves are a great thing to have on your kettle, regardless of which way you go. Very easy to install if you have or can borrow a corded drill (cordless drills are good for hanging pictures and thats about it IMO)
[quote=“grainbelt”][quote=“Radagast”]This is a debate I’m currently struggling with myself. I have been extract brewing for the past year and have been reading and learning as much as I can about the entire process. I already have a 10 gallon pot, a burner, and a chiller so the transition should be fairly inexpensive for me, especially if I started with BIAB and then moved to Denny’s batch sparging method. My main question is how much additional time will I realistically need to make the switch? Right now it typically takes me 3-3.5 hours from starting to get the equipment out to being cleaned and put away after my brew session.
I am guessing All Grain would essentially add roughly 2 hours to my brew session? Is this an accurate estimate? Time is the ONLY thing holding me back at the moment as with three kids I haven’t been able to justify extra time for a brew session. . .yet. Realistically between my chiller and kegging, I have knocked 3-4 hours out of each batch of beer already. I really want to get to All Grain because the process intrigues me and it seems a wonderful way to continue to learn about my hobby that I enjoy so much as it is.
:cheers:
Rad[/quote]
first few AG took a while longer, now I can get em knocked out in bout 4hr[/quote]
Same here.
If you do your homework by designing your recipes in advance, getting all your ingredients gathered and crushed and equipment sanitized in advance, then “cut corners” like I do by only mashing 40 minutes, batch sparge, boil 60 minutes, chill in a cold water bath and pitch the yeast “later”, you can easily knock out an all-grain batch in 4 hours or even less from beginning of heatup to end of cleanup. The process is as easy or as difficult, or as long or as short, as YOU make it.
Same here. First Ag was a 5-6 hour affair. Now that I have my process down, it’s a 4
hour process.
Do what ever you can the night before after the kids go to bed: for example, collect water, prepare grain, measure out hops or other additives, gather necessary equipment, sanitize fermenter and cover top with plastic wrap, prepare yeast, think through tomorrow’s brew events.
For me it depends how many helpers I have, without them it takes around 4-5 hrs, with help its nearer 6 but much more fun and to me what brewing should be…
[quote=“nhff”]For me it depends how many helpers I have, without them it takes around 4-5 hrs, with help its nearer 6 but much more fun and to me what brewing should be…[/quote]Ain’t that the truth! I generally brew by myself, around 4 hours for a 5.5 batch, however if people show up could be 6+.
Keep in mind that there is no reason you MUST always brew all grain once you start brewing all grain. You can always brew extract when time is a crunch then do all-grain batches when you got more time on your hands.
My brewday is anywhere between 4 and 6 hours, but I am not rushing most of the time. I usaully have some sort of “normal day activities” to deal with in between the “wait” periods of a typical brew session.
I have 2 kids, a wife, a dog, cat, house and other hobbies in the mix to get through just like most everyone. I typically am juggling those things on my brewday just like any other day.
I am usually brewing by myself and the only time that I am really not multitasking is the getting to the boil and making sure I dont get a boilover.
I also do BIAB usually when I want to do a 3 gallon batch. Those are considerably less time.
Realistically between my chiller and kegging, I have knocked 3-4 hours out of each batch of beer already. I really want to get to All Grain because the process intrigues me and it seems a wonderful way to continue to learn about my hobby that I enjoy so much as it is.