I’m trying to improve the appearance of my home brew. They taste great but still a little hazy. I read in a blog that tasteless gelitan will clear up any homebrew in two days. The instructions says add gelitan to brew and wait two days. It also says get the temp of beer down around 35º. My problem is my brewing instructions say ferment at 70º. Can I ferment it at 70 degrees and after for fermentation is complete refrigerated to 35ºadd gelatin let it sit for 48 hours at 35º then raise temp back to 70 and bottle or will this create a problem. If this is a problem please give me another idea
what you are describing will work fine. You MAY want to add a 1/4 packet of extra yeast at bottling, but many on here will tell you its not necessary. Gelatin primarily bonds to the proteins that cause haze, and should still leave a decent amount of yeast in suspension to properly bottle-condition.
Here is a thread of the way I’ve been using gelatin (with good success) since I came upon itviewtopic.php?f=1&t=64190&p=590609&hilit=+gelatin+grandma#p590609
I’ve used gelatin twice in IPA’s and there’s no doubt to me that it stole some flavor and aroma. I’ve made these beers before and know what to expect and the gelatin added to each keg definitely took something away. The beer was as clear as I could ask for but I’ll take the haze with flavor and aroma over clear beer.
With gelatin, you might have to let the bottles condition a little longer for them to fully carb up since some of the yeast will drop out…though this is more due to the 35 degrees than the gelatin.
I had an Oktoberfest that sat at 35 for about 2 months and it took about that long to full carb up. I could have added more yeast on bottling day - didn’t even think about it. It tastes great now though.
Speaking of cold temps - I’ve found that my beers clear up just fine if I let them sit in the fridge for a few days before drinking. The longer the better.
I’ve had brews that were in the fridge for over a month and it was crystal clear when poured.
Actually, you’re overthinking things.
You can bottle the finished beer at 35(or 55, or 75) and it’s no big deal. The temp AFTER you bottle is more important. That you want to be a nice comfortable room temp to let the yeast do their magic.
Now, what happens with cold crashing + gelatin, is the low temp precipitates the proteins. Then when you add the gelatin, it grabs those and settles them to the bottom.
So, what I do, is chill the finished product as close to 35 as I can get. But since I rely on environmental temps +/- a swamp cooler I do as best I can. After 24 hours, I add the Gelatin and let it sit for another 24-48 hours before bottling.
Works great for me! :cheers:
Are you doing all-grain brewing or extract?If you’re doing all-grain brewing,I’d focus on what you’re doing during mashing and sparging to see if there are some improvements that can be made in that stage of the process.I recommend using rice hulls in your lauter tun to improve clarity.They really do help a lot to create a beer with good clarity.And your recirculation is important,too.If you have a directly heated lauter tun and you’re not worried about the temp dropping recirculation,don’t stop until you’re satisfied with the wort’s appearance.That’s really the most critical stage right there if you’re really committed to getting clearer beer.Gelatin or other forms of fining and clarifying will work fine if done properly,but they always take something away from flavor or aroma,or both.A thorough recirculation of your wort will not have that effect,and it will help to get a better beer in general by keeping out unwanted particulate matter that can also contribute to astringency.Of course,if you’re doing extract or partial mash brewing,this is not as much of an issue,but you get the point.Sorry to go on and on if this doesn’t apply to you.