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Spike Brewing Kettles?

Long time lurker looking to step up my brewing game! Looking at a 10 gallon brewing kettle from Spike Brewing (specifically this one: http://spikebrewing.com/collections/10- … ight-glass).

I really like that it uses the welded design so my accessories can physically be screwed into the kettle. I’ve had issues with weldless o-rings on past equipment. I do have the following questions:

  1. Will 10 gallons be big enough for a 5 gallon AG batch?
  2. Does anyone else have a Spike Brewing kettle and can you comment on quality, etc?

Thanks! :cheers:

[quote=“302Mustang”]Long time lurker looking to step up my brewing game! Looking at a 10 gallon brewing kettle from Spike Brewing (specifically this one: http://spikebrewing.com/collections/10- … ight-glass).

I really like that it uses the welded design so my accessories can physically be screwed into the kettle. I’ve had issues with weldless o-rings on past equipment. I do have the following questions:

  1. Will 10 gallons be big enough for a 5 gallon AG batch?[/quote]

Yes, more than enough.
I usually lose 0.75-1.50 gallons to trub depending on boil time and hop usage, so I have to fill my 7.5 gallon to the brim and skim hot break to prevent boil overs. So I start with 7.5-7.75 gallons and after chilling end up with around 6.25-6.50 gallons post boil and end up drawing 5.25 gallons to primary. For long boils needed for light lagers I actually need to top up the kettle after a while during the boil to get a correct post boil SG I am expecting and the primary amount of 5.25, so a 10 gallon solves many issues I currently have thus showing you how easy it will be having the head space needed.

I have a bare bones model 7.5g Northern Brewer kettle that I silver brazed a fitting on way back as weldless fittings are for the birds and it “works” as described above, but I really need a 10g bottom line to make the brew day even easier. I have been delaying the new kettle purchase but have pretty much settled on a spike 10 gallon----> due to the fact of price alone. . . Also I like the fact that the handles are riveted not just tack welded for added strength.

I think the price is right and I really like the fact that they have professionally welded connectors setup already, saving me the hassle of brazing one on. NOW, If they release a 1.2 kettle with connectors I would order right now. Currently the only thing holding up the purchase is deciding if I want to buy a cheap 1.2 and braze my own fitting/s on. No, I cannot comment on actual usage but this is what I see in the units and after many, many years using my current model, I do think these kettles have many of the essential qualities needed.

Cheers.
PS: Unless you REALLY need a sight glass…and there are some rare cases where one will aid…Consider skipping the sight glass model. PITA------->to clean in all but the best kettle/s. Just an unnecessary item/ area of the kettle to clean everytime IMHO, when KISS methods such as below seem easier to me anyway.

I am not sure if spike kettles have volume graduations inside like most kettles. Which brings up a good question BTW.
At the modest price I may just employ the inside surface/ self etching DIY that looks phenomenal and plan to use it on any new kettle anyway just to have a really good instant read right inside the kettle regardless of factory etching. OR you can always just use a “paddle/ stick etc…” with graduations marked which works gravy also.

You might be interested in this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=122311

I’ve bought the spike 10 gallon kettle with the 2 Horizontal Couplers around 6 months ago and have been overall very impressed with it. Lid fits great / No leaks / Strong handles / even heat distribution . Me likey

For that kind of money, you should be getting the tri-clad bottom which is usually 5 mm thick SS/Al/SS. These guys have solid pots but you have to do your own connections for thermo, sight glass and valve.

http://www.instawares.com/stainless-steel-master-cook.wdi-sst24.0.7.htm

[quote=“MullerBrau”]For that kind of money, you should be getting the tri-clad bottom which is usually 5 mm thick SS/Al/SS. These guys have solid pots but you have to do your own connections for thermo, sight glass and valve.

http://www.instawares.com/stainless-steel-master-cook.wdi-sst24.0.7.htm
[/quote]

A similar size is like $160 and it doesn’t have the welded fittings which is a must have for me (done with weldless o-rings). Also the tri-clad is not needed according to Spike and Blichmann. My current pot isn’t tri-clad and I’ve never had an issue.

From Spike Brewing website (http://spikebrewing.com/pages/faqs):

[quote]Q: DO YOU SELL TRI-BOTTOM KETTLES / DO THESE KETTLES HAVE AN ALUMINUM SANDWICHED CORE?

A: No! We actually used to sell the ‘tri-bottom’ kettles but after testing and customer feedback we stopped selling them. Somewhere the rumor got started that the tri-bottom kettle is the way to go for brewing; it’s not true. Based on our testing, our 1000’s of satisfied customers and other companies that offer kettles we’ve concluded that a tri-bottom kettle is more marketing ploy than functionality. These tri-clad bottom kettles are meant for kitchens making thick soups, sauces and stews that tend to scorch. They cost more and weigh much more than a single layer kettle that was designed for brewing. The only real benefit of a tri-clad kettle is if you want to use it for induction heating.[/quote]

Dont know about those kettles but those welds look fantastic. If I had the $$$, I think I would be getting one of those.

FYI…I do 5 and 5.5 gal batches and my kettle is only 8 gal.

You can do it but it is very touchy sneaking up on boiling so you dont get a boilover. Hindsight I would get at least a 10 gal.

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