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Saflager W-34/70

I used this yeast in my Helles. I rehydrated 2 pkts. for a 5 gal batch at 73f and then chilled to 53f and pitched into wort at the same temp. It took right off. That was last Saturday. It was a long brew day and I was drinking and forgot to take a hydrometer reading. It is still at high krausen and I was wondering when, if, and how I should do a diacetyl rest. Any advice?

I don’t think this yeast produces much diacetyl, but if it’s been a week in the fermenter, or near a week, you could start raising the temperature up now or this weekend to 60-65F. Basically once you start to see activity slowing or nearly stopping, raise the temp to diacetyl rest.

I agree with Beersk. This yeast doesn’t produce a lot of diacetyl so you probably don’t even need a rest. But it couldn’t hurt. Wait a day or two after the high kraeusen goes away, then bring it up 5-10 degrees for several days, then call it good and begin lagering. It’s a great yeast, by the way.

Now my house yeast for lagers - no D-rest needed. You will like this stuff. Plus no S-23 haters to complain about your choice…

+1 to all the above.

Looks like I’ll have to give this one a try soon. Is it really possible to have a house yeast for all lagers? How versatile is this strain?

+1 to Dave&Beersk, great yeast, I was told this is the same strain as Wyeast 2124.(weihenstephan)

Maaaaybe. This one is pretty clean, so do with it what you wish. It can also be fermented at ale temps to produce steam-like beer. New Belgium uses this yeast strain (WY2124) for 1554.

well, it had been 1 week in primary (it’s in a dang bucket ) so I had been opening it up and checking it. There was still some activity on top but not as much, so I raised my set point to 62F. and just left it in the freezer to drift up on it’s own. It didn’t take long to come up. That was Sunday so it has been one day. How long should I hold it at 62 and I am not sure what to do next. Although I used hop bags for the pelleted hops, a lot of trub went into the primary. I always have trouble with that but that’s for another thread. Anyway, I don’t know whether to lower the temp back to 53 and let it settle and put it in a carboy or keg it or what. I never bottle, just keg. What should I do?

At this point, I would think another week would be fine (at 62*), but if you want to be more scientific:

Since you didn’t take a hydro reading as you were playing beer pong :mrgreen: , I would go off your recipe calculation of OG, then take a hydro reading in a few days. That way, you can ball park the attenuation. If your system is relatively reliable, you were probably within a few points of your intended OG. Was this AG or extract/PM btw? It seems to me that a good number of ‘gravity misfires’ are due to excessive or inadequate water volumes added.

So if your recipe OG was 1.050, and you are at 1.010 in a few days, that’s 80% (likely) attenuation, and you are good to start lagering. Also, tasting it can be invaluable. I do find that compared to most ales, lagers do taste pretty lifeless and thin without carbonation, so be forewarned.

On the ‘house lager yeast’ question, I absolutely think its possible. One of the Jamil shows, he basically talks about using one yeast for just about every lager. The thing is, since you are cold conditioning for so long, a lot more of the yeast drops out, and the yeast becomes less of a flavor contributor than most ales. In a lager yeast, you want a hard worker that is versatile.

I will say that some lager yeasts, such as WY 2206 Bavarian, are better for richer, maltier lagers like Okfests, bocks, and viennas, whereas something like WY 2124 bohemian lager doesn’t accentuate malt quite as much and gives off a little more sulfur.

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