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Questions for those of you that have brew sculptures?

I’ve got a buddy who has a bunch of scrap steel and an awesome shop to put it all together with. I’m pretty comfortable with my design a 3 tier gravity feed unit using 2 keggles and a modified economy kettle. The keggles will be the HLT and the BK and eventually the economy kettle will be switched to a keggle as well.

I’ve got two burners already one a basic cast iron burner that everyone carries for $15.00 and one that came on a turkey fryer another guy gave me(thats rated to 65,000btu@ 10psi) the third burner will be a banjo burner. The Banjo will run the boil kettle, the cast iron burner the mash tun which is insulated and only use the burner to make up a few degrees here and there. The fryer burner will run the hot liquor tank. My reasoning here is the fryer burner is very similar to the 6" high pressure burner that bayou classic sells that they say give most controlled flame at 10psi.

My plan is to run 20psi into 3/4" gas line and split off into 3/8" copper with flared fittings going into each burner. Gate valves will run each burner to allow independent control and finer adjustment(Note any valve labeled WOG can be used for water oil or gas and I will be well below safe working pressure on these things).

First question is do I need to worry about what size the piping is since a lot of regulator hoses are pretty small?

Second question is what are you guys using for fittings to get from your main supply and into your burner orifice? Every orifice I’ve seen is 3/8"FFL and the only way to connect that to my supply pipe is flared copper or flex line which is pricey and still would need adapter fittings.

Third question is instead of making this thing 6’-8’ tall can I shorten it a little and still gravity feed or does the bottom of each kettle need to be above the next to properly feed?

Thanks in advance guys and I will be posting pics as this thing takes shape.

I actually just finished a brew sculpture that my father-in-law helped a lot with.
Mine is 6 feet tall, and it isn’t even all gravity feed. Then again, I had more of a desire to gravity feed from the BK to my fementer via CFC.
My HLT keg is on the left. From there I use a pitcher to get my strike water up to my cooler mash tun. That then gravity feeds to my BK, which will then travel through my CFC and into my fermenter.
I probably could have made it 8 inches shorter, but I didn’t want to chance ruining tons of materials and time only to find out I couldn’t get the proper drainage.
So far we have copper line with some flared fittings getting us from the single regulator to a T, and then into some needle valves, and onto the flared fitting off the burner.
It seemed to be the cheapest method.

A good option would be to run three runs of soft copper pipe with flared fittings (one for each burner), each run having it’s own regulator located at the tank connection. The pipe is flexible; on my brew stand it is tucked underneath and runs along the bottom frame. Economical and effective.

[quote=“Deadeye”]First question is do I need to worry about what size the piping is since a lot of regulator hoses are pretty small?

Second question is what are you guys using for fittings to get from your main supply and into your burner orifice? Every orifice I’ve seen is 3/8"FFL and the only way to connect that to my supply pipe is flared copper or flex line which is pricey and still would need adapter fittings.

Third question is instead of making this thing 6’-8’ tall can I shorten it a little and still gravity feed or does the bottom of each kettle need to be above the next to properly feed?

Thanks in advance guys and I will be posting pics as this thing takes shape.[/quote]Mine is for use with natural gas so I can’t be of much help with your LP questions. I think since you have more pressure than NG, you should be fine with 3/8" flare. That’s what I use on my cart.

Here is some text copied from my website about my brew cart. It is for 25 gallons so take that into account.

9-11-2008 I’ll give you all the details about my brewcart and with a little tweaking, you can make one to suit your needs. I bought my steel at Home Depot. Probably could have been cheaper if I went to a steel company. The steel for mine is all 1.5" X 1.5" X 1/8" thick angle iron. I made the inside opening for the Superb burner to drop in exactly 11.75" X 11.75" and the burner fits in real nice. Here are some of the other dimensions measured from the bottom of the stand (base) where applicable:

overall length 64"; overall width 15"; overall height 48"; ground to base 4"; base to BK surface 10"; base to MLT surface 30"; base to HLT surface 48"; length of BK surface 20"; length of MLT surface 29"; length of HLT surface 15"

I changed a few things after making the stand and using it a few times. One thing was the wheels. I removed the two wheels under the HLT and the two adjustable pegs under the BK. I replaced them with heavy duty locking swivel casters. They were $15.12 each from McMaster Carr. Much better maneuverability. (4) Swivel Casters McMaster Carr p/n 87845T172 DUAL-WHEEL THREADED-STEM CASTER, W/BRAKE,3" X 1" RUBBER WHEEL,1/2"-13 STEM,250#CAPACITY I also recommend a waterproof top where the MLT goes. I started with wood paneling but eventually replaced it with a thick piece of acrylic. Put as many hooks and things onto the brewcart as you think you will need. I also hate always trying to figure out how much strike water I need in the MLT so I made a SS ruler with the marks showing corresponding pounds of grain. Then I fill up my MLT until the depth is equal to the total weight of the grain bill. Same concept for another ruler to measure the volume of wort in the BK.

Thanks again guys. Greg I don’t know why I didn’t think to look on your website that does help some.

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