close to doing a dry hop where I will be adding 4 oz. of cascade. I haven’t done a dry hop yet. Normally I would just let it go in the primary for 3 to 4 weeks then bottle. My question is should I just add it to the primary or should I rack and then add the hops? I will be adding pellets so I imagine there will be a lot of gunk floating around. Is there any way to cut down on the sediment from the pellet hops. I am using a glass carboy.
Normally I would say don’t worry about the secondary. But, Denny has mentioned reading about off flavors having the excess yeast around the dry hops. He thought there was something off in his brews, then realized it was that flavor.
To reduce the hop mess, get some $1 pantyhose. Soak 1 leg in some Starsan over night. You might get some color bleed out of it. Rinse under the faucet, then sanitize again. Put the hops in and tie a knot in it. Leaving plenty of room. Add a marble or 2, or SS washers, to help it sink a little. There will still be some dust that gets through. But the majority will stay in the pantyhose.
Getting it out, you may need to fish out one end and cut it. Dumping the hops before getting the hose out. Doing this over the bathtub will contain any mess.
Thanks nighthawk I’ll give it a try
I have started moving all dry hopped IPA’s to secondary now after 10 days in primary. I do feel I get a better flavor by doing this. I personally don’t do the pantyhose thing and just dump them into the carboy and let them free float and here is why…3 times a day I “swirl” the carboy in circles on a table to move the hops around. With them in a bag I feel you loose some of the possible flavors. I guess you could put them in a bag and do this, but IMO…it’s not the same.
Then when I rack to the bottling bucket I put some type of filter on the auto syphon. I use paint strainers, but you could also do the pantyhose thing. If you are looking for super clear beer this is not perfect, but it works for me.
+1 to both methods above. I’ve been using the paint strainer lately with good results. If you have room, cold crashing for a day or two also helps alot. My last batch was a mess though. I forgot the strainer when transfering until the bucket was half full :cheers:
How about straining from the fermenter, thru that sock, when transferring to your bottling bucket?
Would the results be the same? I like the idea of the fine mesh the sock has.
I would be concerned with oxidation. The straining process will introduce a lot of air/oxygen. I don’t know how to eliminate air in straining unless it could be done in a CO2 blanket (probably not feasible).
Thanks Scott, hadn’t thought about that.