I am getting ready to start building a collars and finish my keezer.
My question is this. Will the creamer version of the SS perlick faucet pour the same as a normal SS perlick as well?
Should I just go for all creamer faucets so that I can use them if I want them. its only a few bucks more…
Or does the creamer faucet justnot give as good of a normal pour as a standard perlick 525ss?
It seems to me the feature is there if you want it and not if you don’t but I’ve never done this before and want to make sure.
I am doing six faucets total.
Also if I have 3" of wood(2x6" inner collar and 1x12 outter oak collar for a total thickness of 3" what size shank should I be looking at?
I found this shank that has a barb already attached: http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-bee … 4NA-3.html
Would it be better to go for stainless steel shanks and the extra fittings for the back or the one piece chrome plated like above?
Why build two collars?
Also, FWIW, I have 4inch shanks with one 2x6 collar.
cheers.
i saw some really nice photos where people used 2x6 cheap pine for the inner collar and then stained some 12x1 oak for an outter collar and mounted on 3 sides with miter joints. the inside collar would just be butt joints. this should make it easier to attach a tray as well.
im still designing/planning right now though so I am open to suggestions ideas.
anyone know if the cream and non cream SSN perlicks both operate exactly the same other than the OPTIONAL cream feature? for 2 dollars more I am considering just getting all the cream ones but don’t wan to if they don’t work as nice as the normal 525SS model.
[quote=“sethhobrin”]i saw some really nice photos where people used 2x6 cheap pine for the inner collar and then stained some 12x1 oak for an outter collar and mounted on 3 sides with miter joints. the inside collar would just be butt joints. this should make it easier to attach a tray as well.
im still designing/planning right now though so I am open to suggestions ideas.[/quote]
I went with miter joints, wood glue, and screws on my collar. I also used the 45deg cutoffs as reinforcement on the inside of each corner…glued and tacked with brads. Then I used mending plates (from ace hardware at $1.19 each) to attach it to the freezer at the original hinge positions using the original hinge screws at the freezer and 1.25 inch wood screws to attach the mending plates to the collar. I attached the freezer top to the collar with the original hinges and again 1.25 woodscrews. I also used foam tape insulation between the collar and freezer.
Finally, because i’m old and will be using the keezer to ferment lagers too, I made a carboy-width door on the front of the collar. Now, I don’t have to lift a full carboy the additional 6 inches to get it into the freezer.
For $2 more, I’d do it. 1 of my 4 perlicks is a creamer, and although I never use the function, it’s good to know I have the option. It pours just like the other 3, so I’d say it makes no difference if you don’t use the option. If I could do it again, I’d certainly pay $6 more (total) to upgrade to all creamers.
i didn’t really hear back so I ended up going 4 and 2 when i placed my order. now I gotta go find a good place to get some stainless steel shanks. the ones at NB don’t have good reviews and I was thinking about looking for a 1 piece with the barb attached.
Looking at something like this for shanks. i really wish this was stainless steel.
http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-bee ... 4NA-3.html
Not sure why SS is an option people think they need on shanks. Sure, if money is no issue, why not…but I’ve been pleased with my chrome shanks. Also, the ones withOUT the welded nipples are what I prefer. Easier to clean. Easier to replace beverage lines. I guess I always prefer the flexibility of any modular design, though…
I found stainless steel shanks of the correct size for the same cost as chrome plated. Same with the nipple kit. Good prices at keg connection.com
Thanksf or the tip on not using the one pieces.
