Oxygen Injection ....worth it?

According to Wyeast, shaking is the carboy for 45 seconds is suitable for most beers.

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=100941

The video mentions a 5 minute oxygen stone time is required, and then says 1 minute. A bit confusing.

I shake the carboy for over a minute and have had good results, quick fermentations, and good tasting beers…

For me, using a stone would require a bit more work and effort and increase the chance of contamination.[/quote]

The 5 minute reference is with regard to use of an aquariam pump, 1 minute for O2.[/quote]

for most beers you need less than a minute of o2, 15 to 30 seconds and dont crank it up.

There was a portion of an article in BYO this month that mentioned that it is possible to over-oxygenate and could possibly cause the yeast stress if there is too oxygen much in the wort. I just skimmed it so I don’t remember the specifics.

there was also a podcast, (I think members of BYO were invloved, would need to fact check) where they did blind tastings of different oxygenation levels and over oxygenation was preffered

According to Wyeast, shaking is the carboy for 45 seconds is suitable for most beers.

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=100941

The video mentions a 5 minute oxygen stone time is required, and then says 1 minute. A bit confusing.

I shake the carboy for over a minute and have had good results, quick fermentations, and good tasting beers…

For me, using a stone would require a bit more work and effort and increase the chance of contamination.[/quote]
Sure, if you have sh!te sanitation practices. Doing almost anything will increase your chances of contamination in that case.

Based on my experience, I think not. Though it might make the process more fool-proof.

As mentioned, the oxygen is an “oxidizer”…Next time you are around some oxy-acetylene tanks with gauges hooked up, look closely at the oxygen gauges…They read :“Use no oil”.

The oxygen and oil combined, you got a major fire potential!
Look at NASA, and the huge tank that was on the outside of the space shuttle, it held a fuel, ( kerosene, me thinks), and liquid oxygen, (the oxidizer)…Mix them together and hang on!

I believe this is known as “hypergolic” fuels.

Worry not about having a cylinder of oxygen around, just practice safe practices for the handling of it.

Millions of people carry a cylinder of it around their waist daily, so they can breathe, and there are millions of cylinders of it it sitting in greasy, grimy fabrication and repair shops, all that’s needed is to know the hazards of it, and to follow the proper handling procedures of it.

Ever fly on an commercial aircraft?
There is a pretty big one on board for crew oxygen in emergencies, plus 6-8 portable bottles throughout the cabin, not to mention an emergency oxygen generator installed over every seat, in case of emergencies.

Embrace the oxygen!.. :cheers:

According to Wyeast, shaking is the carboy for 45 seconds is suitable for most beers.

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=100941

The video mentions a 5 minute oxygen stone time is required, and then says 1 minute. A bit confusing.

I shake the carboy for over a minute and have had good results, quick fermentations, and good tasting beers…

For me, using a stone would require a bit more work and effort and increase the chance of contamination.[/quote]

I used to shake too. Using out O2 makes better beer.

Based on my experience, I think not. Though it might make the process more fool-proof.[/quote]
Hmm, touché, cellars, touché.

I feel more comfortable knowing I got my wort to proper O2 levels for lagers, which I brew a lot of since I got an O2 setup.

As I understand it this applies mostly to liquid yeast as dry yeast is fortified to not need this step .But I found this to be interesting.

David Logsdon of WYeast.

When yeast cells enter dormancy the have very little Sterols. In ideal wort with enough oxygen they will produce about 1% of cell mass into sterols. This is like a full tank of gas. As the cell grows and takes up nutrients the sterols are depleted. Also when a cell buds off a daughter cell it gives half of the sterols to the daughter cell. With out proper oxygen the cell will start out with less than a full tank and run out after just budding 2 or 3 times. This will cause high finishing gravity and stuck fermentation.

Based on my experience, I think not. Though it might make the process more fool-proof.[/quote]
Hmm, touché, cellars, touché.

I feel more comfortable knowing I got my wort to proper O2 levels for lagers, which I brew a lot of since I got an O2 setup.[/quote]
Whatever helps keep the process working and in the comfort zone is good. If I could get an O2 set-up over here, I would probably give it a try. I might be surprised and swear never to brew another batch without it.

[quote=“DUNNGOOD”]As I understand it this applies mostly to liquid yeast as dry yeast is fortified to not need this step .But I found this to be interesting.

David Logsdon of WYeast.

When yeast cells enter dormancy the have very little Sterols. In ideal wort with enough oxygen they will produce about 1% of cell mass into sterols. This is like a full tank of gas. As the cell grows and takes up nutrients the sterols are depleted. Also when a cell buds off a daughter cell it gives half of the sterols to the daughter cell. With out proper oxygen the cell will start out with less than a full tank and run out after just budding 2 or 3 times. This will cause high finishing gravity and stuck fermentation.[/quote]

Nothing is said about what is the proper level of oxygen.

I feel more comfortable knowing I got my wort to proper O2 levels for lagers, which I brew a lot of since I got an O2 setup.[/quote]
Whatever helps keep the process working and in the comfort zone is good. If I could get an O2 set-up over here, I would probably give it a try. I might be surprised and swear never to brew another batch without it.[/quote]

Go here:

http://www.grainger.com/product/WORTHIN ... s_pp=false

And click on “worldwide” at the top, a “drop down” menu, and see if it might be available in Finland, ( I see no reason why not).

I think this is what most brewers are using, and screwing on a torch head perhaps, with the “flameholder” removed, a piece of tubing,and an " oxygen stone", ( for lack of a better term!), or possibly an aquarium stone…

I have something similar to this at home, that came with a recent purchase of some used homebrewing equipment.

The problem with the red O2 Tanks is they are left handed thread. A left handed regulator is needed. About $30 from N.B.
Most home brewers don’t have the means to tell O2 levels so most just do a slow trickle for a minute and this seems to work well.

The one that Williams Brewing sells is nice because the stone is attached to a stainless shaft which makes is easier to use than one that is attached to flexible tubing.

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/WILLIAMS ... -P699.aspx

I invested in the oxygen setup and my beer ferments quite a bit quicker start to finish than using the shaking method. Seems worth it to me.

[quote=“narcout”]The one that Williams Brewing sells is nice because the stone is attached to a stainless shaft which makes is easier to use than one that is attached to flexible tubing.

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/WILLIAMS ... -P699.aspx[/quote]

Not easier for me. Like the tubing better