Anyone ever explored the no chill option? I think most of the brewers in Australia do it, where they put their hot wort into a cube of some sort and let it chill overnight, then aerate and pitch the next day. I’ve also read of people doing it just in their fermenting bucket overnight and pitching the next day with no ill effects. I’m going to be trying it this weekend with an imperial porter and a 2nd runnings beer that will be collected from 2 seperate mashes. (buddy is brewing a belgian strong side by side, 2nd runnings should be interesting) Plan with porter is complete no chill, just put the lid on my BK and leave it sit until it’s cool enough to dump into my bucket, then pitch yeast in the am. The 2nd runnings i think we’ll cool down to about 100F, dump into bucket, and pitch yeast next day as well.
Anyway just curious if anyone on here has ever done it. Haven’t really heard a thing against it yet.
I’ve never done a complete no chill. I have cooled the wort down to about 90-100F range, poured into my bucket and then let the bucket sit overnight to cool down. No ill effects. I think the main thing is to keep it covered. Under 180F things will begin to grow if the wort is exposed.
EDIT: I have read that getting it under 140F quickly is the target range. I can’t remember why specifically 140F though. I would think things could grow just as easily at 120-130F as 140F.
I think an important part of the the no-chill process is to put the wort into an airtight container while it is cooling.
As the wort cools, it shrink in volume, thereby drawing air into the container. The problem with this is that the wort will be spending a fairly long time at bacteria-friendly ranges, so you risk an infection.
If you want to go no-chill, make sure you use an airtight vessel, at least until you pitch the yeast.
has an awful lot of information and opinions on no chill brewing.[/quote]
I’m on that site as well, and got most of my info from it, just curious if anyone on this board had some different opinions. I’m thinking maybe cooling each down to roughly 125F and letting them cool overnight from there. Obviously will have an airtight container being my buckets with lids, with some form of star saned plug in the airlock hole. With the drought and heat i just hate using 30min+ worth of water to chill beer down, and only getting it down to 85F anyways. If it turns out just as good as my other beers i may exclusively no chill in the summer! Save that immersion chiller for the winter.
I think your best bet is exactly this - experiment and compare to your other beers. If you like the process better and the beer at least as well, don’t let anyone stop you!
I think your best bet is exactly this - experiment and compare to your other beers. If you like the process better and the beer at least as well, don’t let anyone stop you![/quote]
One thing to consider when you’re dumping boiling wort from the kettle directly into the fermenter, is that the extended time at high temps will turn your late hop additions into bittering charges.
I have “no chilled” my last 4 batches. I drain into a corny keg after flame-out & seal. Within 12 - 24 hrs the wort is at pitching temp & I rack into my carboy. I have not noticed any flavor or clarity differences from regular chilled batches. I adjust my hop additions per a chart posted on HBT.
At this temperature, it’s not bacteria/infection related. I just realized it might be to keep food grade plastic safe - I’m pretty sure food grade HDPE is only safe under 140F.
[quote=“KISS Brew”]I’m pretty sure food grade HDPE is only safe under 140F.[/quote]I could be wrong, but last time I looked at this, HDPE is good up to 225F - there are people who use heat sticks and boil in a bucket!
[quote=“segroves”]I have read that getting it under 140F quickly is the target range. I can’t remember why specifically 140F though. I would think things could grow just as easily at 120-130F as 140F.
[/quote]The 140° target is to halt DMS from forming, mainly in brews with a lot pale malts like pils.
[quote=“KISS Brew”]Still, regardless of what people do, or what the FDA says, I would never trust boiling in plastic.[/quote]Totally with you - guess it’s the best or only choice for some people but I like my stainless kettles.
Here’s a reference on temps:
"…can withstand somewhat higher temperatures (120 °C/ 248 °F for short periods, 110 °C /230 °F continuously). "
At this temperature, it’s not bacteria/infection related. I just realized it might be to keep food grade plastic safe - I’m pretty sure food grade HDPE is only safe under 140F.[/quote]
40F - 140F is the range where bacteria is a real concern.
Just made my second brew from NB and I always see you HAVE to chill the wort quickly. So far used ice bath but this last one I just let cool on its own in our house. MS Gulf Coast to hot and humid to leave outside so I kept it in the house (temp 74-78) till it cools down to 78 degrees (all night) before pitching the yeast. How did the our forefathers do this. They sure as heck did not have chillers back in the day of horse and buggy. How did they get their beer from point A to the drinking stage? Anybody have an idea on how they did it. Thanks!
Just to update. No chilled this past weekend with my big imperial porter, used immersion for roughly 5 min to take the “edge” off so to speak, poured er into the bucket and let it sit overnight. Pitched in US05 without aeration. Had visible fermentation signs withing 12 hrs. Success! No to see how the final product turns out.
HDPE melting temp is 125 C. No problem dumping almost boiling wort in a thick walled HDPE bucket assuming it was made from a food grade HDPE (most are).
