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NB Black IPA yeast switched!?

Uh oh, so i picked up some kits and yeasts last month and finally brewed the NB Black IPA a couple weeks ago. Extract kit and everything seemed to go smooth so i’m anticipating a great beer. However, i now realized I bought a couple Saf Ale 05 to have on hand and an extra for this Black IPA. I also bought the Wyeast British Isle II for my Surly Bender Ale.

Well, I used the Sal Ale 05 on the Surly, which fermented great and the final product tastes good. So, now I ended up using the British Isle II on the Black IPA, I made a starter since this kit is a little higher OG,it had a great fermentation although this yeast takes it’s time to clean up and fall out of suspension.

Anyone want to venture what it will taste like? I would hope a British yeast would work well with the stout-like malts, will it overpower the hops though? Anyone use this yeast?

Do you mean Wyeast 1335 British Ale II? If so, i think your beer will be good.
I like that Black IPA, but with the extract version it tends to finish with a high gravity. So I actually think that yeast will do a good job.

A classic British ale profile with good flocculation and malty flavor characteristics. It will finish crisp, clean and fairly dry.

Flocculation: high
Attenuation: 73-76%
Temperature Range: 63-75° F (17-24° C)
Alcohol Tolerance: approximately 10% ABV

High attenuation and alcohol tolerance. I would ferment at 63F for the first 2-3days and then raise the temp to the lower 70’s if possible. Just to help the yeast get that final gravity down a little.

I like this yeast. High flocculation. Finishes in the low end and ends up crisp and dry. Have used it in cascade pales before with very nice results. My ferments have been a bit warmer (70-72) for the duration and tend to add a fruitier character which I don’t think would be too bad for a black IPA. My experience has been very clear beers with this yeast.
You should have a winner.

I actually haven’t used this yeast yet, but may now give it a try. Sounds like a good all around house yeast.

That was our house ale yeast at the brewery. Really easy to top-crop, but also highly flocculent. Decent control of esters with pitching temps, although it’ll never be as clean as Chico.

I’ve been using 1272 as my house yeast for the last year. I like it for a lot of beers, but am looking for something a little more neutral.

In your opinion, how does 1272 differ from 1056? I’ve used 1272 with great success on an APA.

I feel 1272 is a little fruitier. The one issue I have with 1272 is that it doesn’t flocculate as well as the description says. Now, I’ve rinsed the same yeast multiple times. I started with a fresh yeast pack back in April and I just poured the last yeast cake from a pale ale down the drain because it was the 5th or 6th generation (I lost track). I didn’t want to push it with using more generations. I got about 10 beers from that single pack of yeast and even gave a few jars away to fellow brewers, but it seemed to floc less and less with each generation.

I’ve not harvested YET, but I’d guess you got great re-use by most standards. I actually have NB’s Black IPA ready to bottle this coming Sunday. I added cacao nibs to it 10 days ago and it started hustling again. With the addition of nibs along with the gravity of this recipe, can 1272 be harvested?

Thanks, Mike

What was your OG for the black ipa?


Probably one of the most exuberant beers I’ve ever made. Fermentation madness. When I sunk a cup of nibs in 10 oz of boiled water and dumped, it went nuts again and is just dying out. I didn’t think there was that much sugar in nibs…

I would save it, but only for use in another higher gravity ale. Or at least something in the same range. I don’t know from experience, but have read it’s not good practice to reuse a yeast from a high OG beer into a low OG beer.

Thank you!

@ the OP, thanks for your post, didn’t mean to hijack it with too many questions.


Nibs have 10 calories per ounce, so you added the equivalent of maybe two tablespoons of sugar (@ 50 calories per tablespoon).

I’d guess that with your rinsing procedure you’ve been unintentionally selecting the most powdery portion of the slurry. I’ve used 1272 for many more generations than that and it always flocculates like a brick.

So, that would be an adequate amount to hit the gas again? I did rouse the fermenter right before dumping the nibs. I’ve also roused it a few times during the last 10 days.

It could be that you had a stalled fermentation and the addition of a little sugar got things going again, but I think it’s more likely that you’re just seeing CO2 coming out of solution because of all the nucleation sites available on the nibs.

Is the gravity dropping? That’s the only way to be sure.

Good advice. I guess I will have to check on Sunday before I get into bottling mode.

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