[quote=“ynotbrusum”]
I’m not saying it can’t happen, but that temperature change is highly unlikely to permeate the entire mash. Once I got a Thermopen, I found that the thermometer mounted on the kettle was simply reading wrong when heat was being applied.[/quote]
I had a separate probe thermometer and could see the temperature highs and lows as I moved it through the mash and who knows what the temp was for the grain sitting directly on top of the false bottom that I was desperately trying to scrape and move around. I think thats just an inevitable side effect of applying heat to one side of a container. So while you’re correct that it didn’t affect the whole mash, it also made consistent temperature throughout the mash virtually impossible. In the cooler, all the heat is being applied instantly so once it is stirred in which only takes a couple of minutes, there is no longer concern for temp swings or hot spots. I still made good beer using the kettle, but I doubt I could replicate mash temps consistently.
I have the braid manifolds and I can fly or batch sparge with them easily without changing a thing.
I have 2 “Denny” style Cooler Mashtuns. One square the other tall and round. The square one I got 1st and it has a long braid that makes a double loop in the bottom. Works very well but as supposed above the long braidmust be watched out for while stirring. Couple of months ago I converted a round yellow one and put a much shorter braid in it. we are talking only 8 inches long. It works much better than that long one. So much so that I am going to change the other one to a short braid for the ease of stirring. I have a 30 Gal Boilermaker with the false bottom that I never use (the false bottom plate) becaues my current method is just to easy.
Barry
Me too. I have braid in 5 gal cooler and fb in 10 gal one. Give equivalent results except my impression is fbs are more prone to stuck sparges.
My experience with RIMs was so frustrating I just stopped brewing much for a while. Better plumbing skills may have helped.
I just like fly sparging. Too much math in batching. 
[quote=“richter”]
I just like fly sparging. Too much math in batching. [/quote]bam! Amen
[quote=“MullerBrau”][quote=“richter”]
I just like fly sparging. Too much math in batching. [/quote]bam! Amen[/quote]
All it takes is subtraction. Mash with whatever ratio you like. After mash runoff, measure how much you’ve got. Subtract that from the amount you want to boil. That’s how much sparge water to use. You can do that cantcha?
As I just posted in another thread, I use a round 5 gal cooler with a braided hose (i can only mash up to ~13 lbs of grain, so I will be upgrading to a 10 gal soon). For me, the braid works great. Coupled with the fact that I also line my tun with a large grain bag, I simply just lift the grains out of the tun after I sparge. Then I can dump whatever wort is left behind into my BK, resulting in zero loss. I always hit my OG, so I’m content with not using a false bottom for now.
Gotta be the braid. Make sure the braid is steel. Turns out most of the braided tubes they sell at HomeDepot look like metal, but are actually plastic. They did have one box of the metal type, but you had to look for them.
Just want to point out that a braid is cheap enough the there’s no great loss if you decide to switch to a false bottom.
Although once you use the braid, you never will!
Went from a braid to a false bottom and haven’t looked back. Did batch with the braid, fly with the FB. I aim for 1qt/min when I’m sparging and it takes about 30 minutes to get 8 gallons. As soon as a gallon is in the BK I start heating. Maybe it is more complicated but I like it.
Braid is cheaper. Mine worked for 15 batches until for some odd reason I kept getting stuck and decided to try a false bottom. Might try doing a batch sparge next brew day!
It is extremely unlikely that efficiency is going to change in any way related to the braid vs. manifold vs. false bottom question. If it does, it’s because you changed your procedure also.
As do we all, I have opinons about differences in behavior, however.
False bottom:
Sturdy
Some implementations create more dead space than with a braid or manifold. A small cooler (5gal) would be reduced with respect to total grain capacity.
Usually most expensive.
Arguably least affected by overly-rigorous stirring.
Theoretically most even filtering for fly sparging.
Manifold
Most work to assemble.
Most work to disassemble and clean.
Most likely to detach from fluid outlet and require heroic effort (ask me how I know).
Most difficult to stir grain on bottom.
Braid
Usually cheapest.
Occupies very little space.
Stirring is not impeded, but you must be slightly careful not to crimp the braid.
Runoff clears VERY fast compared to other options, usually between a pint and a quart.
[quote=“SoltanGris”]
Braid is cheaper. Mine worked for 15 batches until for some odd reason I kept getting stuck [/quote]
The other side of the coin… I’ve used the same braid for over 450 batches!
If you are batch sparging, this is true. But if you are fly sparging, the geometry of your mash tun and drainage system can make a huge difference. You can easily take a 10 pct point hit in efficiency if you mess up and aren’t rinsing the grains evenly.
[quote=“Denny”][quote=“SoltanGris”]
Braid is cheaper. Mine worked for 15 batches until for some odd reason I kept getting stuck [/quote]
The other side of the coin… I’ve used the same braid for over 450 batches![/quote]
Mine was a “boil screen” for what it is worth. Maybe it wasn’t the best thing to use!
[quote=“Denny”][quote=“SoltanGris”]
Braid is cheaper. Mine worked for 15 batches until for some odd reason I kept getting stuck [/quote]
The other side of the coin… I’ve used the same braid for over 450 batches![/quote]
I gotta agree with Denny here. I’ve used the same braid for over 100 batches and it works just as good as the first batch. If your braid is getting crushed, it’s probably not stainless steel. I could run over mine with a car and it would still work. If you didn’t manage to cut your hand up cutting and crimping it, it’s probably not stainless steel!
I started AG with a 10gal water cooler and FB. It worked good with no complaints for years. then Denny posted his setup, and I happened to have an old heavy igloo 50 from camping days. I got a braid from Home Depot[ 8" long braid ]. I believe my sparge is faster and clears quicker. I now have over 200 batches and more years now than I can remember, still using same cooler and braid. Now that I know the difference and could go back in time, I would have never spent that much money on the round cooler or the FB. To me, simple and faster, and cheaper wins the race for me, and I guess that’s why I don’t get Fly, but that’s just me.
[quote=“brwrboy69”][quote=“Denny”][quote=“SoltanGris”]
Braid is cheaper. Mine worked for 15 batches until for some odd reason I kept getting stuck [/quote]
The other side of the coin… I’ve used the same braid for over 450 batches![/quote]
I gotta agree with Denny here. I’ve used the same braid for over 100 batches and it works just as good as the first batch. If your braid is getting crushed, it’s probably not stainless steel. I could run over mine with a car and it would still work. If you didn’t manage to cut your hand up cutting and crimping it, it’s probably not stainless steel![/quote]
That’s gotta be it. It’s pretty sturdy but I can definitely squish it.
If you can find it, I recommend Lasco part number 10-0121or 10-0321.
[quote=“SoltanGris”]
That’s gotta be it. It’s pretty sturdy but I can definitely squish it.[/quote]
FWIW, not all braids are created equal, in my experience. They’re designed to “keep stuff in” (i.e., prevent pressure build-up / hose bursting), not necessarily “keep stuff out”. From certain manufacturers, you can purchase “raw” hose braid, and it is folded & flattened; such braid would work fine for its intended purpose, but will fail when used for this homebrewing application (Note: personal experience here).
I see Denny’s recommended a hose; I strongly recommend you follow his recommendations.
