Back to Shopping at NorthernBrewer.com

Low OG on a Sunday night, no DME on hand

I was shooting for 1.080 and got a reading of 1.048.

Can I wait to pitch my yeast if I button up (seal/sanitize) my carboy and get some DME tomorrow, or do I need to pitch relatively soon?

I have some corn sugar on hand, but I’d prefer not to use it since I heard it can adjust the flavor.

Also, I smacked my pack. Any timing issues there?

Are you sure you read the OG correctly? 32 points is REALLY off. Can you describe your process? I am betting that its wort stratification from topping off.

If it really is that far off and you want to add DME you can put an airlock on it without worries if your sanitation is good.

No time issues with the yeast. The swelling just proves that the yeast is viable.

[quote=“jdrulia”]I was shooting for 1.080 and got a reading of 1.048.

Can I wait to pitch my yeast if I button up (seal/sanitize) my carboy and get some DME tomorrow, or do I need to pitch relatively soon?

I have some corn sugar on hand, but I’d prefer not to use it since I heard it can adjust the flavor.

Also, I smacked my pack. Any timing issues there?[/quote]

Is this extract, and if so did you top off with water? It’s hard to miss your OG with extract unless you forgot some.

Just curious if your reading is off due to not fully mixed.

As far as the yeast, smacking, then waiting to pitch is OK. With a 1.080 beer, I would recommend a starter or second pack.

Details on the beer and your process will help with a solution to your problem.

Mike

This is an all grain. I had 11.375lbs of grain that I mashed for 60min @ 156°F in 3.5gal of water. At the end of my 60min mash, I pulled the thermometer out and it read 155°F.

I calculated 2.1 gal for the first run, so I sparged with 4gal @172°F. I then boiled for 60min and added 1/2tsp of yeast nutrient with 15min left.

I dropped the temp below 100°F and transferred to my carboy. I have roughly 5gal post-boil wort. In the process of that I snagged a sample for my refractometer. I’m getting a Brix reading of ~11.8. According to

I’m getting an OG of 1.048. Unless someone sees something that I did wrong, i’m guessing my efficiency was off?.. I even went back just now (after reading the responses) and took another Brix reading from my ~70°F fermentor and got the same reading.

Is there a formula for adding the correct amount of DME to boost my OG by 32 points?

I appreciate the help!

Like Loopie said- from Wyeast’s FAQ
https://www.wyeastlab.com/faqs.cfm?website=1#r20
:[quote]If you have activated a package but can’t use it right away, simply allow the package to swell and then refrigerate the package. The yeast will survive for extended periods if refrigerated. Before using, take the package out of the refrigerator and allow it to come up to room temperature before using. It is best to use the yeast as soon as possible. [/quote]

Re-check your recipe. Typical 2-row yield is 38 points/pound/gallon at 100% efficiency.

38*11.4/5 = 1.087 max theoretical yield

75% efficiency would put you at 1.065. What was your grain bill?

Grain bill:

    7.5lb 2-Row
    1.5lb Munich Malt
    0.5lb Crystal (80L)
    0.5lb Crystal (120L)
    0.5 Flake oats
    0.25 Wheat malt
    10oz Chocolate Malt
    1oz Columbus (60min)
    1/2 tsp yeast nutrient (15min)
    0.25oz Northern Brewer (10min)
    Wyeast American Ale 1056

Beersmith thinks I would get about 1.050 from that grain bill into 6 gallons. That is with around a 70% efficiency, which is typical for me (I don’t have a mill so I get whatever the LHBS gives me). So I think the problem is with your recipe. Your efficiency might be lower than some people get, but not out of line.

I think the formula is 1 lb of DME = 0.009 gravity / 5 gallons. So you would need about 4.25 lb of DME to bump a 6 gallon batch up to 1.080.

Edit: I guess 6 gallons was your pre-boil volume, so those numbers are a little off if your final volume is 5 gal. It would mean your efficiency is a bit lower and you need more like 3.5 lb of DME to hit 1.080.

I’m a novice but I don’t think you can make an .080 beer with that little grain unless your adding sugar.

I kinda thought the bill was light and I guess it’s my fault for not double checking, but I got this clone recipe for New Holland’s Dragon’s Milk right out of the Jan/Feb 08 BYO magazine.

I checked out BYO article, doesn’t seem right. Without calculating off the top of my head you might be looking at 16 lbs or more to get 080.

I agree. That’s just not enough grain to get an OG of 1.080 (at least not in my ‘brewery’)

If it were me, I’d either leave it be and let it ferment out, or if the octane is that important, just boil up some sugar and add it to give it a boost. I wouldn’t add so much sugar to bring it up to your original 1.080 target though…maybe just bring it to 1.060. The body/mouthfeel will suffer somewhat, but having mashed at 156°F it won’t suffer as much as it would if you had mashed at 150°F.

On occasion I have also come up short of target OG. I’ve found that in such cases the best thing really is just to let it be what it is, and make adjustments next time.
You may have missed the target, but I’m betting that in the end you 'll still wind up with a very palatable brew.

Found the BYO article if anyone wants a look: http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/2069- … milk-clone

Define their screw up, not yours.

[quote=“sampothepancake”]Found the BYO article if anyone wants a look: http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/2069- … milk-clone

Define their screw up, not yours.[/quote]

I’m really glad it wasn’t me. I re-read that article like 20 times making sure I didn’t miss something after everyone said the grain bill was light.

I’m going to do as The Professor says and only come up to 1.060

Back to Shopping at NorthernBrewer.com