Low Final Gravity

I know that this has been discussed before, but I cannot find any post that talks about my situation. I have brewed two beers in the last month and both of them have ended with a high FG. My first beer had an OG of 1042 - perfect and the FG was 1020 – it was at this for 2 days, so I figured it was done. The last FG was read after 16 days in primary, so I moved it to secondary. I neglected to take another reading before I cold crashed it. The beer tastes great, but I am wondering why the attenuation was only 54%.

I brewed a different beer 2 weeks ago and again my OG was perfect at 1045. It fermented like crazy for a week adn now 2 weeks later the gravity reading is 1024 - this time the attentuation is only 48%. I have not moved it to secondary yet, so I am wondering if there is something I should do to get the gravity reading lower.

My ambient temp is steady in my basement at 56 - 58 degrees and the yeasts mentioned a temp range of 58 - 68, so I should be fine there.

I know that it does not really matter - as long as the beer tastes good, but I am an analytical geek and it is bugging me. I brewed beer in the summer and fall and the FG was perfect in those batches, so I wonder if the temp has anything to do with it.

I have read in some places that I should gently stir up the wort - - does that sound right?

Thanks guys.

My extract beers always ended in the 1.018-1.022 range.

I have no idea how people were able to get 1.013 FG on an extract beer.

Or your hydrometer is reading no accurate. The paper could have shifted.

Bumping up the temperature to the lows 70s a few days after fermentation has started might help. What type of yeast have you been using?

The first beer was the Dry Irish Stout and I used the Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale and the second beer was the California Common and I used the Wyeast 2112 California Lager.

Should I move it to a warmer place now for a day and see if that gets it going again?

Moving it to a warmer temp may help it out. Twisting the bucket to rouse the yeast back into suspension may help.

How are you aerating your wort before pitching? Are you doing yeast strarters? They shouldn’t be necessary for low OG beers like that, but are good practice.

You may want to have your beer ferment at a little higher temp. You are definitely on the low side. After 3-5 days, getting it to the high end of the yeast temp range helps, too.

I aerate the wort by rocking the bucket or carboy.

I have not used a yeast starter because of the lower OG, but maybe I should start.

I think I will give it a little stir and then move it to another room that is a little warmer.

Thank you

Well, it has been a couple of days at 60 degrees (2 warmer than before) and nothing has happened - the gravity is still 1025.

So, do I just forget about it and move on to secondary or do should I buy another yeast pack and pitch more yeast?

That’s on the cool side for just about any ale yeast. Notty goes down into the 50s, German ale yeasts do, but you might want to take it up a few more degrees. Try to get it up over 65 for a few days before you repitch. Otherwise, from what I’ve heard (I’ve only done one extract batch), you might have to add some sugar to get the gravity down much lower than that

Do you know that your hydrometer is reading accurately?

Like Nighthawk said Most of my extract brews finish around the 1.020 -1.022 range when pitching dry yeast. I ferment around 62 degrees. I always get the same result whether I just pitch dry yeast or rehydrate my dry yeast. Pitching a nice healthy yeast starter always seems to help me reach my target FG. It’s worth spending the extra $$ for liquid yeast. I’m not a big fan of dry yeast

I believe that my refractometer is working correctly. I tested it with water and it shows right at 1.000 plus the OG is always right on.

I do not know if I have a part of the house where I can get it warmer, I thought the main level would be warmer than 60 since we keep the thermostat at 66, but the ambient temp on the floor seems to stay at 60.

I used a liquid yeast - always have, but perhaps I need to do the starters in the winter. Would it do me any good to pitch another pack?

Are you using a correction factor with the refractometer to account for the alcohol in the liquid?

Oooh - that sounds new to me, I do not know anything about that. Please tell me more.

Refractometers are meant to measure sugar, they don’t work correctly in the presence of alcohol. But if you know what the starting gravity was, you can use an equation to correct for this.

SG=1.001843-0.002318474(OB)-0.000007775(OB^2)-0.000000034(OB^3)+0.00574(AB) +0.00003344(AB^2)+0.000000086(AB^3)

SG is specific gravity, OB is your original brix reading, and AB is your current brix reading.

There are online calculators like this one http://www.musther.net/vinocalc.html#monitorferment ,and also tools like beersmith have refractometer correction built in.

A neat trick you can do with refractometers is that if you don’t know what the OG was, (such as on a commercial beer, or you forgot to take it) if you measure FG with a hydrometer, and also take a refractometer reading, you can calculate alcohol, and thus back out what OG must have been.

Oooh - that sounds new to me, I do not know anything about that. Please tell me more.[/quote]

I did ask you 3 days ago if you hydrometer was reading correctly. :oops: Knowing that you were using a refractometer at that time could have fixed the problem then.

Here is another set of handy calculators.

http://www.brewheads.com/calc.php

:cheers:

Nighthawk - you are my hero!!! I took a hydrometer reading and the FG is at 10.11… PERFECT!!!

I never heard anything about the refractometer needing an adjustment for alcohol.

THANK YOU!

[quote=“Nate42”]Refractometers are meant to measure sugar, they don’t work correctly in the presence of alcohol. But if you know what the starting gravity was, you can use an equation to correct for this.

SG=1.001843-0.002318474(OB)-0.000007775(OB^2)-0.000000034(OB^3)+0.00574(AB) +0.00003344(AB^2)+0.000000086(AB^3)

SG is specific gravity, OB is your original brix reading, and AB is your current brix reading.

There are online calculators like this one http://www.musther.net/vinocalc.html#monitorferment ,and also tools like beersmith have refractometer correction built in.

A neat trick you can do with refractometers is that if you don’t know what the OG was, (such as on a commercial beer, or you forgot to take it) if you measure FG with a hydrometer, and also take a refractometer reading, you can calculate alcohol, and thus back out what OG must have been.[/quote]

Thank you Nate - that is cool - I am a math geek, so I love the formula. I have been thinking about getting BeerSmith and if it does this for you, that is another plus.

Thank you for posting this. It has really helped me out. I was feeling kind of bummed that my FG readings were so high. After using this calculator I realized my last two brews were spot on.
:mrgreen:
:cheers: