I ended up replacing the regulator and it seemed to help while testing with the cylinder off. It would hold pressure but then when I went to run the system it drained again. I refilled the tank again and was going to replace every fitting and add teflon tape to everything but had a hunch to check the cylinder before doing that. When the cylinder was completely full it was leaking bad. So I now have a new cylinder and regulator and it seems fine but it has only been a few days. I will update it there are still issues but really hope this will be the end of the troubles.
Thanks for the info on the level gauge. I did not know that.
Oh wow, that’s nuts. I would never have even though of that, but given what you described, it certainly makes sense.
BTW, do you think the valve got damaged or did it simply fail? A while back I went to my go-to place and they told me they couldn’t refill mine because it was “out of test”…I’d forgotten that was even a thing. I ended up buying a second tank because I couldn’t wait to have it tested and filled, which was a pain.
You throwing out your old one, or can it be repaired?
Tanks can certainly be retested. It’s called a hydro static test and can only be done by certified CO2 dealers or fire equipment supply companies. I have my tanks filled at a fire equipment company that tests them so when they are out of date, they just keep them and I get them back when done. Pay for it of course.
A couple of my tanks belong to the CO2 company. They charge a deposit but the tank can be exchanged and it is their problem to keep them tested. Many of them do not care if it is their tank and just swap it out. Depends on how anal they are about it.
I had one that was a know defective model. The CO2 guy removed the valve and beat the top so another one could not be attached. Gave me an exchange tank to use without a deposit though.
I have not looked into it yet but the tank is less than two years old. Just leaking from where the tank meets the valve. I would have swapped it but it is only a 2.5 lb tank that came with my kegerator. My local NB only does 5lb +. I am going to check elsewhere to see what my options are.
Go the biggest you can go. It only costs me a couple dollars more to get my 10lb tanks filled over my 5lb tanks. If I could fit a 20lb in my keezer I would have a couple of them too.
Well after replacing my regulator, co2 tank, and tightening all my connections my brand new tank emptied after a week. Really don’t know where to go from here. Not sure how I could fix leaks in about 3 different parts of my system. Replace everything else and sstill be having issues. things did start getting worse when I added a second tower in place of using a picnic tap for my second keg but my kegs both hold pressure fine and the co2 inputs never changed. And after replacing my leaking co2 tank and reg I really don’t get it.
It shouldn’t have anything to do with the tower as that is the liquid side (you would notice a liquid leak).
Are you using barbed or MFL gas disconnects? Also, after replacing everything I would double check every connection to make sure they are tight.
Yea just go back over EVERYTHING TWICE, tighten all nuts, etc. You’ll be surprised to find that one that loosened up just because you moved a keg or a line a bit. It happens. Seems like a constant battle sometimes.
How new are your keg o-rings? Maybe replace them all or at a minimum lube them? I issue is I have tinitus, a constant ringing in my ears, so I can’t hear the gas hissing when it’s leaking.
Wow, that really sucks. What a nightmare.
It sounds like you’ve checked everything, but since this is clearly not a typical situation, I’ll throw out some thoughts:
-MFL or barbs?
-what type of hose clamps do you use? I and many others swear by oetiker clamps, and I have firsthand experience with worm-gear clamps loosening and being generally unreliable
-do you use these flared washers on MFL connections? Flared Nylon Washer 4 Pack
+1 on negative experience with worm-gear clamps. I just ordered Oetikers because I’m tired of checking and tighteing my clamps. I’ve never used the washers in MFL fittings but that’s probably a good idea too.
Yeah, and on that note, everything in my system is MFL as opposed to barb connections, which if you’re going to use the oetikers is pretty much a must.
I don’t ever want to be clamping and reclamping hoses to barbs.
@rustyhoover you may be on to something that I forgot. Do your hoses attach to the regulator via barb or mfl? If it is mfl you MUST use the nylon washer between the connection as it is metal on metal. The disconnects come equipped with it built into the connector.
This could be so small of a leak that takes so long it is going undected by your star San spray.
On the disconnects you don’t need washers. If you have a valve with an flare, you should use a washer as it would be metal to metal.
To the OP, even with an mfl, there will be a barb in the hose. Oetikers are a good idea.
Did you look at the co2 hose to the keg. Small pin holes could be as well check this. Or you keg does leak at the conection. Just a idea
