Kveik Yeast Discussion

Here’s the spec sheet for the Breiss Copper Carapils. I went with a ROM on the recipe in the post. My actual % is 11% of the copper carapils, which is within the added amount Breiss recommends for a copper hue. I also ran the grain bill through a diastatic calculator to check the conversion.

I did a forced fermentation with this brew (like my last one). I’ll check it later today, but expect it will be close to the predicted target. I’ll let you know how it goes.

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Copper Carapils is different than regular Carapils. Its kinda more of a crystal malt and can be used up to 30% of your grain bill. Its still like regular Carapils and dextrine-style malt adds body, foam retention and beer stability but Copper Carapils adds reddish color and copper color to your beer. Also will impart some candy notes and Graham cracker at higher percentages. When used at 30% it imparts toast, toffee and burnt sugar flavors and red hues to your beer.

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You beat me to it

I fixed it. I’ve never buttered a beer and I’m not starting now!

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I recognize it’s more of a crystal malt and I wouldn’t go that high, unless I added enough IBUs to balance out the sweetness.

Edit: I also wanted to add that I believe the OP has had beers finish with a high FG. 14% crystal malt will result in that, especially with a high mash temp.

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Some unfermentables are currently in fashion for Kveik. I rarely use cara, carmel, crystal. I might start.

FYI I did a forced fermentation with this brew as I did with my last batch after having conversion issues due to unregulated mash temps. I’ve fixed that problem (stopped using point & click thermometer). The forced fermentation FG was 1.014 (just a pt off my predicted FG). FYI - OG 1.053. I also started using the iodine test for starch conversion. It was clear.

So… I’m confident it is progressing On plan.

As for balancing the sweetness from the copper Cara-Pils and bitterness, the BU/GU from BeerSmith is at .86. This will give me a higher bitterness which I was planning with an IBU of 46. The true test will be after it’s bottled and aged.

The true test is when you taste it. Brew to your own taste not to what you read.

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What’s the goal? Heavy farmhouse type ale?

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I like your commitment to the craft in such a short period of time. Your beers will get better with each batch.

I looked back at the recipe because first time I just scanned it quickly and thought it was something I’d never brew. Honestly never heard of the copper carapils. On second read it appears to be an interesting take on an american red ale. I’d drink it. If it’s not exactly what you’re going for I’m confident you’ll get there eventually.

I think I did iodine tests all of three times and was satisfied I was getting good conversion. My process has been the same for years. I always adjust mash pH and mash temp per style and do 60 min mash and sparge with 190ish water. My results are pretty consistent with regard to that part of my process as long as I pay close attention to water volumes and boil rates. I feel like an electric kettle could help with the boil consistency so I keep threatening to go electric but my system works.

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Thanks. I’m trying to soak it all in and come up with a repeatable process that is reliable and produces a beer I will enjoy. I’ve learned over time that with anything it comes down to process. You can have the best recipe, but if your process sucks you’ll likely get bad results.

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Kveik doesn’t let you get heavy unless you plan accordingly

So your saying the kveik strains all go dry?

FG 1.006 was my last Kveik. Compared to a FG 1.007 all Brett, and a 1.009 Abbey brewed at about the same time.

I don’t use much crystal malts but prefer to keep my beers from going to dry. Kind of why I’ve never bothered with the kviek. One of the first things I learned was controlling my temperatures in mashing and fermenation. I’ve always considered kviek for Brewers that don’t have temperature control. Am I wrong about that?

I’d tend to agree. I haven’t used it many times but I saw no other benefits to it and didn’t actually like the IPA it produced as well as the same grain bill with 1056. It was more “estery” and not in a way I liked.

I think it’s a fad. Cool story and all but if you’re set up for temp control it’s not a groundbreaking yeast. IMHO

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As someone who has limited temperature control it’s not a fad but an alternative to making Saisons all summer long. For dessert and tropical island dwellers Kveik prolongs our brewing season

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I agree completely. I guess "fad’ wasn’t the best choice of words but for someone like me or @brewcat who’re already setup to manage temperature it’s just an interesting yeast to experiment with.

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So those using the kveik strains have you noticed a thinner bodied beer? I’m assuming this is due to the higher attenuation of this yeast versus say a yeast with a lower attenuation.

You can make a dry beer with out it seeming thin. I don’t like the term thin. If the beer seems to dry use less carbonation. If you keg that’s easier than if you bottle it. People seem to think you need to use crystal with kviek yeast. Of course that’s a tool. I’ve been brewing without any crystal so I’ve been avoiding that yeast. In your climate you may be stuck using that yeast until you upgrade to temperature control which I recommend. All’s you need down there is an old cast off refrigerator