# kegging question.

I prime in the keg. Multiple reasons, but it what I do. I’m reading Zymurgy and in the article on the Weissbach by Charlie Papzian( I hope I spelled his name correctly, if not, I apologize). I noticed for the first time a large difference in the amount of priming sugar bottle vs. keg. Less than 1/2 the amount. As I’m new to kegging I would like to know if there is a standard rule to calculate the proper amount. Thank you.

The NB has one called the" priming sugar calculator" and another site is " the beer recipator".
Hope this helps.

Happy brewing

I think those are just for bottle carbonating, not carbonating in the keg.

I think a “standard” is 3/4 cup (5 oz) of priming sugar for bottling a batch with priming solution and only 1/3 cup for priming a keg. I do not understand the physics of it nor have I tried to naturally prime a keg… I got into kegging to get away from waiting for natural carb to form! But I have heard the 1/3 cup rule for priming kegs and many have gone that way with good results. Cheers.

Maybe because of the headspace to beer ratio? Less CO2 to fill that headspace…

I think it is because the beer will always be absorbing CO2 while under pressure. If you use the full amount needed for bottle kegging, once it is under serving pressure, it will begin to absorb additional CO2 and you’d be more likely to have beer that is over carbed.

just my 2 cents.

Ah HA! Now that makes sense.

Sure Michael, it makes sense to beer-heads, but is it right?

Bueller…Bueller…?

:cheers:

“You’re killin me Smalls” I’ve flunked more science classes than most people have passed, but don’t things at different pressures always try to find an equilibrium, therefore, set a keg at 12lbs. the Co2 will enter until the keg reaches that pressure as the Co2 is absorbed into the beer more Co2 bleeds in. Set serving pressure at 4-6 lbs. and do nothing and eventually the beer will go flat? So far I have primed at bottle levels in keg* depending on beer type, when keg kicks refrigerate, set serving pressure at 8-10lbs. and it seems to work pretty well. The article has me questioning my methods. Thanks for the feedback, I’ve been married 31 years so you can’t beat me up by telling me my methods are crap.

• I have 4 Cornie with room for only two kegs in fridge. I like to have kegs ready to go with just a chill when one kicks.

On tap : Dawson’s multigrain, English Pale Ale
Secondary: Patersbier, Barley Wine until September.
Primary: Raspberry Wheat, Petite Saison D’ete.
On deck: Something Brown for me .

The explanation I have read is the sum of the bottle head space is greater that the keg head space. So more sugar (more CO2) is needed in the bottles.

Beer in a keg will only absorb as much CO2 as the pressure it is set at. Just like someone on an oxygen tank. They will only receive as much O2 as the regulator is set at and no more.

The only way to over carb a keg by force carbonation is to set the pressure to high or have a regulator fail.

I carb naturally in kegs most of the time. Maybe it’s just me, but I’ve found the beer to be smoother. For me, I’ve found 1/2 cup corn sugar works best.
:cheers:

I have tried keg carbing with corn sugar, force carbing, and both. I tend not to notice much of a difference except that keg carbing saves you some CO2. Ditto on the half cup of corn sugar, then wait a few days and purge the headspace. Hook it up to CO2 at dispensing pressure and have a taste to check carb, if it seems undercarbed, pump up the CO2.

Also, IMHO keg carbing seems to work best for me at room temp. I threw a primed keg into the fridge and it had no pressure and was a bit sweeter from the sugar.

The other thing that’s pretty fun is running the beer through a canister filter and grabbing a pint before sealing the keg. Room temp, slightly aerated… it’s like cask without the equipment.

[quote=“Nighthawk”]
The only way to over carb a keg by force carbonation is to set the pressure to high or have a regulator fail.[/quote]

I keep my kegarator in the garage and have found another way to over-carbonate: If I normally keep the temp set to 38 and the pressure set to 12 PSI, but then it gets so cold outside that the temp inside the fridge gets down to 32, more volumes of CO2 will enter the beer and it gets overcarbonated. If the temperature rises back to 38, the CO2 comes out of solution, but does not flow backwards into the CO2 tank. The overcarbonation eventually levels out as I pour pints, because the regulator stops sending CO2…but it does take awhile. Other than keeping this thing in the house (to effectively regulate the temp), I can’t think of any way to avoid this.

[quote=“FriendsR2Thirsty”][quote=“Nighthawk”]
The only way to over carb a keg by force carbonation is to set the pressure to high or have a regulator fail.[/quote]

I keep my kegarator in the garage and have found another way to over-carbonate: If I normally keep the temp set to 38 and the pressure set to 12 PSI, but then it gets so cold outside that the temp inside the fridge gets down to 32, more volumes of CO2 will enter the beer and it gets overcarbonated. If the temperature rises back to 38, the CO2 comes out of solution, but does not flow backwards into the CO2 tank. The overcarbonation eventually levels out as I pour pints, because the regulator stops sending CO2…but it does take awhile. Other than keeping this thing in the house (to effectively regulate the temp), I can’t think of any way to avoid this.[/quote]
Pull the pressure relief valve until the regulator starts adding CO2 again, maybe :?: