I’ve got 2 reconditioned ball lock kegs, one that works perfectly and another that decidedly does not. the one that does not pressurizes just fine, you can hear the inrush of CO2 just fine and the dial reads a proper setting. when you open the tap, the keg makes this low, rumbling, repeating honking noise plus it just barely dribbles out the beer.
i switched the tap between the two kegs and the problem stayed with the keg. i switched the CO2 lines between the two kegs and the problem stayed with the keg. i drained the beer (a very tasty clone of Brooklyn Brewing’s Black Chocolate Stout), cleaned & sanitized the keg, refilled and repressurized. the problem still happened.
at this point, i’m pretty sure i’ve got a hardware problem, i just don’t know what that problem is nor what i need to do to fix it. anyone have any thoughts? i would greatly appreciate some help and would raise at least a pint or two in your honor!
[quote=“fomu65”]I’ve got 2 reconditioned ball lock kegs, one that works perfectly and another that decidedly does not. the one that does not pressurizes just fine, you can hear the inrush of CO2 just fine and the dial reads a proper setting. when you open the tap, the keg makes this low, rumbling, repeating honking noise plus it just barely dribbles out the beer.
i switched the tap between the two kegs and the problem stayed with the keg. i switched the CO2 lines between the two kegs and the problem stayed with the keg. i drained the beer (a very tasty clone of Brooklyn Brewing’s Black Chocolate Stout), cleaned & sanitized the keg, refilled and repressurized. the problem still happened.
at this point, i’m pretty sure i’ve got a hardware problem, i just don’t know what that problem is nor what i need to do to fix it. anyone have any thoughts? i would greatly appreciate some help and would raise at least a pint or two in your honor![/quote]
My guess would be a poppet valve that is “vibrating” as the flow rushes past it.
Should be able to,( take all sanitary precautions!), de-pressurize the keg, unscrew the posts, and see if anything is amiss, or swap posts from keg to keg,( one at the time!), as it’s “probably” on the CO2 side…Just a guess, mind you.
thanks for the suggestions. i went to my local homebrew store and purchased a couple new valves. of course, it would have been better if i had realized there were multiple post styles of ball lock kegs, but such is life.
that said, i’ve got a style A keg but i can’t figure out how to get the dumb things removed. the neck of the things are so flat that my deep well socket set can’t get a grip. any suggestions on how to get the things disconnected?
[quote=“fomu65”]
that said, i’ve got a style A keg but i can’t figure out how to get the dumb things removed. the neck of the things are so flat that my deep well socket set can’t get a grip. any suggestions on how to get the things disconnected?[/quote]
I’m not following what is happening.
If the socket doesn’t work, do you have an open end or box end wrench? An adjustable (crescent) wrench can also work. But doesn’t fit well if you have a full handle top.
[quote=“fomu65”]
that said, i’ve got a style A keg but i can’t figure out how to get the dumb things removed. the neck of the things are so flat that my deep well socket set can’t get a grip. any suggestions on how to get the things disconnected?[/quote]
Do you mean that the 6/12 point part of the post is essentially flush with the surface of the keg, so you can’t get a wrench on it?
[quote=“kcbeersnob”][quote=“fomu65”]
that said, i’ve got a style A keg but i can’t figure out how to get the dumb things removed. the neck of the things are so flat that my deep well socket set can’t get a grip. any suggestions on how to get the things disconnected?[/quote]
Do you mean that the 6/12 point part of the post is essentially flush with the surface of the keg, so you can’t get a wrench on it?[/quote]
[quote=“fomu65”]
Yes, that is exactly my problem.[/quote]
I was afraid of that. Not sure what you can do. Maybe someone more mechanically inclined than myself will have an idea. Did you purchase it recently? If so, maybe you can inform the seller and see if they will replace it for you.
For future reference it’s always a good idea to completely tear down a keg when you receive it, clean it thoroughly and inspect all of the o-rings–which you can only do by removing the posts. This will also help you to quickly identify any problems with the keg, so you have a better chance of the seller fixing the problem.
I had a problem similar to yours with a keg I had purchased last year. I found the issue immediately when I went through the process described above. I sent the seller an e-mail with a photo, and they sent me a replacement keg.
i will fully admit to not having fully read the directions when i purchased the kegs. given that i purchased them 18 months ago and have been using them successfully since then, i don’t think northern brewer would be held accountable for my inability to follow directions.
its not so much that the nut is rounded off, just that it is so flat (looks like an A style) and all my sockets/wrenches have rounded bottoms, that I can’t get anything to lock on. just wasn’t sure if there was a special tool that i didn’t have which would take it right off. guess there isn’t.
thanks again for everyone’s help and advice. you guys rock!
Yep, a pic would help…If the profile of the hex is just so low that the socket won’t grab, you can take some off of the end of the socket.
Most sockets are “radiused” at the entry of the opening, for ease of use when applying to the fastener.
Handy with, or do you have a “zizz wheel”?
Regardless, take a piece of tape and wrap it around your socket, about an 1/8 " from the end or less.
Make sure the tape ends meet up squarely, as the edge of this tape will be your cut line.
Take the zizz wheel, and trim along the line, without touching the tape…Gently, don’t rush it, and let the wheel do the work, and cut from left to right.
Clean it up with a sander after the cut, sanding to the line.
No tools of such?..Take your socket by a machine shop, ask them to chuck it in the lathe and face off the radius, (you’ll see it if you look).
Check pricing first, on this last option, as some shops have a minimum cost.
Check with the Shop Foreman, or the Machinist, both of whom might occasionally thirst for a homebrew.
Barter with them!
If you were nearby, I’d do it in about 10 minutes!
ok, finally got the opportunity to get back to this. turns out, it was a much easier fix than i thought it would be. simply put, i should have changed and correctly installed the replacement seal kit before trying anything else. the keg no longer makes freaky noises, pours liquid and doesn’t run the CO2 canister down to empty overnight.