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Keg fittings and Line diameter

I’m putting together my order and noticed the options for threaded/non-threaded keg fittings and the different line diameters. Which ones are ideal and what is the difference? I am also planning on running 4 kegs eventually, should I get a CO2 splitter for 4 or do less and just tee it off? Thanks!

I can tell you, at some point you will want to clean you black beer out disconnects and having the threaded end for your serving line just makes this chore a little more pleasant in my mind. As far as your other questions more information is needed.

By all means, go with the threaded swivel nut connections. The cleaning thing is a good reason. So is the possibility that you might want a commercial keg on tap at some point and you can buy and adapter for the sanke coupling that will screw onto the 1/4" FFL.

All lines gas and beer can be the standard 3/16" ID beverage line. This allows them to be used as anything when the flare fittings are placed on the ends and the threaded/flare disconnects are used.

Once your system is set up with flare fittings it can be easily taken apart to clean or swap components. You can also use any type of keg adapter on the ends of the lines by just unscrewing them. This makes the change from ball-lock keg fittings to commercial sankey keg taps very easy.

By all means swivels, initially it costs a little bit extra but it is well worth it for the convenience factor. I’ll go off on a related tangent to show the effects on a coldplate but it tranfers over to keezers in the same regard. Plus some stainless coldplate pron for yah.

I use swivels on my cold plate also just for the reason of being able to switch a corny liquid disconnect to a sankey or vice a versa in 2 seconds. And flushing of the lines is a simple task right after your done using it via garden hose in most cases. I use this part for the sankey: ... 4-mfl.html

I had used this part without the “optional” cone washer which you only need for this operation.
Well I found out after a few parties that the cone washer helps to keep air from entering the liquid line at this connection to the swivel nut on the liquid draft line. They are also super cheap so I keep a dozen in my coldplate kit and now have perfect sankey pours. See this washer here: ... asher.html

The one other thing you may notice on the photos is I have a dual gas splitter for the coldplate and one sankey is permanently mounted but the 2nd one in the photo is left free with a CO2 polysulfone disconnect as is the main feed to the splitter from the tank and I use these for my main kegerator hook up also as its a click and CO2 is disconnected. So sankey/ corny CO2 is rigged in a jif no matter what you want to do. Typically I will use the coldplate to draft either two sankeys or one sankey, one cornie. Whats nice is plenty of craft sixtels have a sankey disconnect.
Here are the gas disconnects if your interested: ... -barb.html ... -barb.html

The other thing that is nice in having liquid swivels everywhere and gas quick discos is everything is orderly no tubing mess every time so set up and tear down at a party is quick and efficient. I will put the fully exploded cold plate and kit along with the the photo of the kit and cooler ready to travel on the next post.


d-----excuse the a,b,c biz I had to enter some text to post the photos.

YES, I say do the four way if your plan is to draft 4 at one time in the future. T’s will work but you risk keg liquid crosstalk and also if you do not have back-flow preventives on your four way its the same as having simple t’s. Some vendors unwittingly sell 4 ways with no back check(ask me how I know LOL still baffles me why they do), bottom line just make certain you buy the four way with the back check valves. You may also put thought to a 5/6 way so a keg or two can be conditioning on gas if all 4 are in draft mode. Just depends on your forecasted demand in the future.

I hope I didn’t derail you too much and this stuff all helped in the scheme of things. If questions persist do post back. I would also say use a minimum 10ft of 3/16" for draft lines and you can always cut back if the pour is too slow. Some say 4-5ft works for them, but myself and many others found 10ft was the trick. Regarding gas line simply use whatever length of 1/4" you need to reach everything correctly You dont need to worry about line length in regards to CO2.

My recommendation is to use the oeitker clamps on everything especially if going swivel/ quick discos as they create a round seal around the tubing in contrast to a “D” fit around the tube if you understand what I am trying to say in how a worm gear hose clamp will form a D instead of an O around the tubing/ fitting.

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