I was wonderering if it would be ok to aerate my wort befor it leaves the kettle…( I use an immersion chiller)… Also if I bought a small aquarium stone and soaked it a day or so before using would that be ok? I,m looking to use both ways of aerating…Also, I,m getting ready to brew my 2nd All-grain batch and it has flaked barley…do I need to crush this with my grain or just mix it in with the grist?..Thanks :cheers:
As far as the flaked barley, no, there is no need to crush it. Just toss it into the mash tun. However, if I ever have a recipe that calls for more than a pound of anything “flaked”, I throw rice hulls in to help prevent a stuck sparge.
I always practiced aerating the wort after it was chilled. Someone might be able to speak more on this, but I don’t think that aerating while still warm is a great idea. Not only that, but cooler liquids hold gas better anyway.
I used to use an aquarium stone as well, but now that I run most of my wort through a filter when I transfer from the kettle to the fermenter, I don’t bother with it. I let the filter bubble the wort, I shake the hell out of the fermenter after pitching, and I get fermentation going pretty quickly every time.
As far as aeration goes, I’ve taken a tip from NB’s “homebrew hacks” and it has worked well. At flameout when I crank up the immersion chiller, I use my mixstir in the middle of the chiller to circulate the wort and chill it quicker, all the while aerating the wort. This has cut my chill time in half and my attenuation has ben great.
:cheers:
Ron
Hmmmm…haven’t tried a sanitized mixer. I also have recently started stirring the wort with the IC in to cut chilling time with good results. Only negative is mixing the wort may affect the cold break and allow more trub to reach the fermenter.
Theoretically, you;re susceptible to hot side aeration (HSA) at any temp over 85F. While it’s likely a minor concern, it’s easy enough to avoid that I take precautions. I wouldn’t aerate until you’ve chilled the wort. Also, cooler wort will more readily absorb O2.
[quote=“Catch22”]As far as the flaked barley, no, there is no need to crush it. Just toss it into the mash tun. However, if I ever have a recipe that calls for more than a pound of anything “flaked”, I throw rice hulls in to help prevent a stuck sparge.
I always practiced aerating the wort after it was chilled. Someone might be able to speak more on this, but I don’t think that aerating while still warm is a great idea. Not only that, but cooler liquids hold gas better anyway.
I used to use an aquarium stone as well, but now that I run most of my wort through a filter when I transfer from the kettle to the fermenter, I don’t bother with it. I let the filter bubble the wort, I shake the hell out of the fermenter after pitching, and I get fermentation going pretty quickly every time.[/quote]
How much rice hulls?? :cheers:
[quote=“tankie”]
How much rice hulls?? :cheers: [/quote]
Most 5 gallon batches you can get away with 1/2-3/4 of a pound.
Thanks :cheers:
[quote=“Catch22”][quote=“tankie”]
How much rice hulls?? :cheers: [/quote]
Most 5 gallon batches you can get away with 1/2-3/4 of a pound.[/quote]
That seems like an awful lot. I usually use just a few handfuls even with a wheat bill up to 60%.
[quote=“Loopie Beer”][quote=“Catch22”][quote=“tankie”]
How much rice hulls?? :cheers: [/quote]
Most 5 gallon batches you can get away with 1/2-3/4 of a pound.[/quote]
That seems like an awful lot. I usually use just a few handfuls even with a wheat bill up to 60%.[/quote]
Agreed. I’ve never needed them…it all depends on your brewing system.
Well Denny, if you,ve never needed them I shouldn’t since I,m using your system my first brew was great and this one oughta be to. In my earlier post here I asked about aerating in the kettle…you mis-understood…I have full intentions of chilling before aeration Thanks Denny! :cheers:
I’ve also wondered about aerating the chilled wort while still in the kettle. My worts foam up like crazy within 5 minutes of turning the pump on while the stone is in the fermentor. Then I either have to turn off the pump and wait for the foam to subside (which seems to take forever) or I give up, pitch the yeast, and rock the fermenter. Can’t say I’ve ever had a stuck fermentation or poor attenuation. If I aerated while still in the kettle, 1) I’d have more headspace for foam since I brew a 5 gallon batch in a 10 gallon fermenter which means I could aerate longer, and 2) I could start to transfer wort to the fermenter when I do finally run out of headspace and continue to aerate.
The issue of getting more trub in your fermentor with this technique is a valid one, but there is also a big debate about the importance of keeping trub out. Some believe it doesn't matter. Some feel they get a clearer beer faster with more trub in their wort.
I'm in the process of modifying my aeration system, again. When I get it all together, I will post pictures and comments. My current modification is to add an aquarium air valve to the air line near the pump. The idea is to turn down the airflow a bit to reduce the amount of foam produced. This is an idea I got from something I read in Dave Miller's book. I'll let you know how it works out.
I also wonder if using a short piece of tubing from the kettle drain valve to the fermenter would be enough aeration. The idea would be to have the end of the tube near the top of the fermentor allowing the wort to fall the bottom causing a lot of splashing.
I will probably experiment with all of these ideas on my next batches. Of course, I will add only 1 new technique per batch. Otherwise, it would be poor scientific method, right Denny!I usualy ferment in a bucket rather than a carboy, So what I,ve been doing is once the wort is chilled I drain to the bucket draining through a plastic sprayer/aearator. I usualy have a large nylon bucket cloth that I catch most of my trub with… If one used pure oxegen foaming should,nt be an issue as that takes just seconds…I,m still trying to get my aquarium rig going…it doesn’t seem to want to bubble through the stone although oxegen does well… :cheers:
- the micron size of the stone could be too small (.5 micron). Aquarium pumps work best with 2 micron size stones.
- the pump is not powerful enough to even push through a 2 micron stone.
- the stone is clogged. Don’t touch stones with bare hands/fingers as the oils can easily log the pores of the stone. You can try a soak in PBW followed by boiling it and blowing air through it at the same time. I found the to be helpful every use.
