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IPA mini-mash recipe formulation

Beer Recipe Design
#1

Hey all,

Just wondering if some of you guys with a lot more experience than I think this looks good. Shooting for a west coast style IPA, light body, dry finish. Summertime party beer.

5 Gallon Batch
OG 1.070ish
75 IBU tinseth
90 minute boil

GRIST:

6.4 lbs NB Gold Malt LME
4 lbs crisp pale ale malt
10 oz. Munich 20L
8 oz. Crystal 60
8 oz. sugar
Sacch rest at 153 for an hour

HOP SCHEDULE:

.5 oz Warrior @ 60
.5 oz Warrior @ 45
1 oz. Centennial @ 30
1 oz. Centennial @ 5
1 oz. Amarillo @ 2
1 oz. Simcoe @ flameout

15 min. Hop Steep

1 oz Simcoe & 1 oz. Amarillo Dry-hop 7 days

2 packets Safale US-05 or 1056 with healthy starter…(should i consider 1272 instead??)

Whaddya think?

#2

I would sub light DME for the Gold LME, mini-mash at 150F, and up the sugar to a lb (these will get you a lower FG). Move the 45-min addition back to 60 (to get a bigger hop bite). Move the 30-min addition to something less than 10-minutes if you’re doing the hop steep or go with a FWH addition instead.

Any of those yeasts make a good WC IPA. Or try WLP007 if you want to get it as dry as possible.

#3

Thanks for the advice!

I have the LME sitting around which is why I wanted to use it up. It’s still pretty fresh. Will definitely consider the other tips though. FWH is a great idea.

Anyone else?

#4

The Shadetree knows his stuff.

Agree on the sugar bump to a pound if you can, all warrior at 60, move 30 minute Cent to 10, and one packet of US05 will rip that right up no worries.

Cheers to summa IPA. Have fun.

#5

Thanks guys! Can’t wait to brew this one.

#6

So far i’ve had very decent fg’s on all of my extract batches with NB Gold lme. Most gravities 1.065 and under have finished 1.010-1.012, with gravities closer to 1.070-75 finishing around 1.012-1.013. The majority of these have been with US-05, which for some reason has been a monster attenuator lately…usually 80% if not 82-83.

#7

[quote=“Shadetree”]I would sub light DME for the Gold LME, mini-mash at 150F, and up the sugar to a lb (these will get you a lower FG). Move the 45-min addition back to 60 (to get a bigger hop bite). Move the 30-min addition to something less than 10-minutes if you’re doing the hop steep or go with a FWH addition instead.

Any of those yeasts make a good WC IPA. Or try WLP007 if you want to get it as dry as possible.[/quote]

+1 to all this! I also prefer drier IPA’s and APA’s. Mashing around 150F is a good idea. All the Magnum at 60, awesome! Move Centennial to 10min or less, again awesome!

I love 1272 for these styles as well. Attenuates well, adds some nice flavors which can be easily controlled with higher or lower ferm temps. Also flocculates well. My vote is for 1272!

EDIT: Oops… all the warrior at 60, not magnum. Having said that, I’d use magnum. I love the clean bitterness of magnum. Works well with most hops and would work great with your later additions of centennial, amarillo and simcoe.

:cheers:

#8

I just happen to have an ounce of Magnum in the freezer. Never used it before. I’m in. Also, had great results with 1272 on a black IPA i made last year. The stuff went crazy! I’ll see if i can wrangle some for this batch. Thanks!

#9

I use Magnum as the bittering addition for most of my beers now. Since you get little to no aroma or flavor from early addition hops and only a small amount of magnum is needed for IBU’s, I don’t waste precious aroma and flavor hops at that stage.

Warrior is similar to Magnum and also a solid choice and would work just fine with your other additions.

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