[quote=“Monster Mash”]
Don’t use distilled water, you want the minerals. Use purified or spring water. If that helps then you can switch back to tap water and use campden tablets.[/quote]
^ truth ^
[quote=“pointyskull”][quote=“Monster Mash”]
Don’t use distilled water, you want the minerals. Use purified or spring water. If that helps then you can switch back to tap water and use campden tablets.[/quote]
^ truth ^[/quote]
truth for AG not extract
If you’re worried about oxygenation, get the o2 regulator from NB, for some reason they don’t have it listed in the catalog (just the aquarium and large tank version)
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brew ... n-kit.html $69I hate that you’re having issues and I’m recommending throwing more gear at it but believe me any worries about that will be a thing of the past within seconds.
then you can just get the o2 bottles from Lowes or Home Depot for $8 a piece
[quote=“grainbelt”][quote=“pointyskull”][quote=“Monster Mash”]
Don’t use distilled water, you want the minerals. Use purified or spring water. If that helps then you can switch back to tap water and use campden tablets.[/quote]
^ truth ^[/quote]
truth for AG not extract[/quote]
Soft water affects hop utilization and perceived bitterness, also if you want the beer to come close to the same when brewing with tap water you should use hard water. If you use distilled this time and tap water the next time the beer will be totally different.
You can use distilled water but spring water is fine and will get you closer to your house water.
Distilled or RO (with PERHAPS small additions of CaSO4 or CaCl) when doing extract beers - and an explanation why:
Check out #9 on this link from Brew Your Own.
http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indi ... ct-brewingThe section below is copied from:
http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/tom/brewingwater.htmPay attention to the last two paragraphs in particular.
7.0 WATER FOR EXTRACT BREWING:
The water used for extract brewing is not nearly as critical. Since your malt has already been mashed, you don’t have to worry about the mash pH, and are only concerned with flavor impact ions like Na, Cl, Mg, and SO4. However, you don’t want water that is so hard it tastes bad. Metro Nashville water is relatively soft, and is perfectly fine for extract brewing all beer styles.
You may want to consider adding a small amount of CaCl to aide clarity and hotbreak. The chloride is also good in malty styles. Some gypsum would accentuate the hops in an English Bitter. Do some research, and take a look at the recommended mineral table in the attachment to this article.
It is worth noting however, that extract contains all of the minerals (calcium, carbonate, sulfate, chloride etc.) of the extract Manufacturer’s water supply. The mash uses their water supply, then the wort is run off and evaporated, concentrating all the minerals into the extract (and some of the manufacturers have hard water supplies). Now, when you use Nashville tap water you are adding in even more minerals.
For this reason, if you feel you are getting some harsh carbonate or sulfate bitterness in your extract beer, I recommend switching to 100% distilled water. If that doesn’t clear it up then you know it is not a water issue.
[quote=“Braufessor”]Distilled or RO (with PERHAPS small additions of CaSO4 or CaCl) when doing extract beers - and an explanation why:
Check out #9 on this link from Brew Your Own.
http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indi ... ct-brewingThe section below is copied from:
http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/tom/brewingwater.htmPay attention to the last two paragraphs in particular.
7.0 WATER FOR EXTRACT BREWING:
The water used for extract brewing is not nearly as critical. Since your malt has already been mashed, you don’t have to worry about the mash pH, and are only concerned with flavor impact ions like Na, Cl, Mg, and SO4. However, you don’t want water that is so hard it tastes bad. Metro Nashville water is relatively soft, and is perfectly fine for extract brewing all beer styles.
You may want to consider adding a small amount of CaCl to aide clarity and hotbreak. The chloride is also good in malty styles. Some gypsum would accentuate the hops in an English Bitter. Do some research, and take a look at the recommended mineral table in the attachment to this article.
It is worth noting however, that extract contains all of the minerals (calcium, carbonate, sulfate, chloride etc.) of the extract Manufacturer’s water supply. The mash uses their water supply, then the wort is run off and evaporated, concentrating all the minerals into the extract (and some of the manufacturers have hard water supplies). Now, when you use Nashville tap water you are adding in even more minerals.
For this reason, if you feel you are getting some harsh carbonate or sulfate bitterness in your extract beer, I recommend switching to 100% distilled water. If that doesn’t clear it up then you know it is not a water issue.[/quote]
ding ding ding, a new brewer need to keep things simple.
Time, time, and more time my friend. It’s good you will start to get better about OG/FG readings, as mentioned before it’s the only way to be sure when your beer is done. I highly recommend you save a 6 pack, store it in a cool dark space, and enjoy a min of 6 months later. You will be amazed!
UPDATE: Made the AK47 Pale Mild extract kit using distilled water, as suggested. After 15 days in primary fermenter (checked gravity to ensure it was done!) and 10 days in the bottle, just chilled one and tried it: it’s good.
Granted it’s a mild, so it’s not blowing my mind or anything, but I’m not getting any of the off flavors from before. Nice, light, refreshing, springy.
Thanks everyone!
This is the oxygen system I use. I like the metal rod, as I can put it exactly in the carboy or bucket where I want.
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/WILLIAMS ... -P699.aspxIf we’re pimping oxygenation kits, I like the Fermentap one that More Beer sells. http://morebeer.com/view_product/16604/ … ial_System. Two features I like are the in line filter, just for peace of mind, and the connections seem nicer than some I’ve seen. I guess the main thing though is that any type is better than any other method of getting O2 into your wort.
On the water side of things. I brew extract and use the cheapest spring water available. I’ve used distilled in the past for several batches and really couldn’t say there is an obvious difference. I stick with spring out of habit since I do partial mashes from time to time and sometimes that’s the only option available at the store.
[quote=“esharri2”]Hi everyone:
I’m new to brewing, started off with extract kits for caribou slobber and rye stout, and ended up with barely drinkable results after both attempts. I’m about to embark on a third try–AK47 pale mild extract–but it’s hard to get motivated since I worry about what will end up in my glass.
Both misfires had the same off flavor: looking at NB’s list, I’d describe it as Acetaldehyde (green apple) or maybe sourness, a tad metallic. I’ve been hardcore about the star-san during all stages, so I’m not sure what else there is to do as far as sanitizing.
I’m looking at a couple possible causes I see listed:
1.) Poor aeration. I use the “jostle the plastic bucket” method as seen on the NB dvd. Do other people use this method? Has it ever caused problems? Was my jostling insufficient? Should I do something else?
2.) Fermentation time. In both failures, I didn’t check the gravity at all. Bubbling had pretty much stopped, krausen had fallen, and the recommended two weeks had passed. Would premature bottling cause my funky flavors?
Let me know if anyone has ideas. I raise my glass of weird-tasting rye stout to you!
-Evan[/quote]
Whatever you do, DONT drink or dump this beer. This kind of hazardous substance must be handled by a professional!!! Lucky for you, I am trained in these matters. Set these bottles aside for about 4 months in a dark closet, then call me. For a nominal fee plus expenses I will at that time safely remove them from your household.
