First stuck batch?

I brewed a black ale on black friday. It came in at 1.051 and the brewersfriend web software says it will finish around 1.015. Fermentation appears to be done and it’s sitting at 1.020.

I was using the scottish ale yeast but I did not make a starter.

I also tried a non approved method of putting the yeast (smackpack) into some warm water and giving it a shot of honey and agave nector to get it fired up before pitching. Afterwards, I researched and discovered that this might have been a bad idea. A friend recommended this instead of a starter, but I think this really just gets the yeast going faster and really can not increase the volume of the yeast.

Now my understanding is that and I may have weakened my yeast.

My carboy has been sitting in a 60 degree room for the entire process so far …almost 3 weeks.

What should I do? Pitch more of the same yeast? Add some type of nutrient? Move to a secondary and hope that reenvigorates it? Move to warmer temp?

Any help will be much appreciated.

Also, for what it’s worth, the beer is already tasting great and I am planning on secondary fermenting for about a week and a half…starting later today or tomorrow…and I’m going to dry hop yet too.

If it’s an extract black ale, 1.020 is not uncommon. Warm it up and get the yeast back into suspension to see if you can knock off a couple more points.

this batch, she is all grain

you can warm it up and roust the yeast and see if ya can get another piont or two. But it might just be done.

cool.
i’ll prob tranf to secondary and bring it upstairs for a few days

does a higher FG make a higher risk for bottle bombs or should i not worry about that?

I would leave it in the primary and bring it upstairs to a warmer room. Why remove the majority of the yeast when you want to get a couple more points out of them?

If you want to use a second aging vessel, do so after another week at the warmer temp.

A recipe and mash schedule could be helpful in diagnosing this. The software can only give you a general idea of the FG. It’s know a perfect system.

Oh sure. Here’s all of what I have recorded.

Fermentables
9 lbs Briess Pilsen
1 lb Briess Organic C-60L
1 lb Flaked Oats
.5 lb Weyermann Dehusked Carafa III
.25 lb Weyermann Chocalate Rye

*Spilled ~3/4 pound of mixed grain in the cold wind. DAMNIT

Hops & Flavorings
1 oz. New Zealand Pacific Hallertau @ 60
1 oz. Cascade
1 oz. New Zealand Pacific Jade

1 oz Cascade @ Dryhop for XXX Days (Still to come)
1 oz New Zealand Pacific Jade @ Dryhop for XXX Days (Still to come)

Yeast
Wyeast Scottish Ale 1728
Day of brewing made a 1L Starter made with warm water and ~1 oz of honey and ~2 oz of agave nectar.

Additions
1 campden tablet added pre boil
1 tablespoon of Mash stabilizer 5.2 at dough in.
1 teaspoon of Irish Moss @ 15

Strike Temp: ~164
Mash Temp: ~152 for 90 Minutes (up and down from 148-158 during mash)
Mash Volume: ~6.25 gallons
Sparge?: 1.5 gallons near boiling to rinse grain

Brew date: 11/23/12
O.G. 1.051

BIAB method. So my “mash” is really thin mash and sparge combo of 11.75 lbs of grain with 6.25 gallons of water. I usually try to end up at least a 5 gallon batch and my kettle is a 7.5. This method has worked pretty great for me so far.

I was also brewing outdoors in about 15 degree F weather. This time it was pretty hard for me to maintain steady mash temp. I would say for the most part it was around 152-155 but I did have it dip once to 148 and a twice it rose up to about 158. Whenever this happened it would take approx 10 minutes to get back in the 152-155 range. I would add a couple ice cubes and have the burner off.

I did a 90 minute mash/followed by a “sparge” of near boiling water through the bag as it dripped into the kettle. 60 minute boil.

Any help would be appreciated. I’m leaning towards the honey/agave yeast method as being my problem but would love to hear all of your other thoughts on solutions or future advice. Maybe I’m not having any problems at all and I just need to RDWHHB.

It’s possible that your thermometer is reading low and you mashing higher than you suspect, which would give you less fermentable wort resulting in higher final gravity. I’m having a hard time blaming the yeast. Even yeast awakened with simple sugar will still usually ferment a batch of beer without any problem. If you made a 1.030 sugar wort and a 3-4 day starter, I’d be more suspicious of lazy yeast.

Calibrate your hydrometer and thermometer, move the primary to a warmer area, and get the yeast back into suspension for a week. If your FG doesn’t lower, it’s time to bottle.

:cheers:

Thanks for all the input. I really appreciate it.

I’ve brought it upstairs in the primary for now.
I think my hydrometer is accurate. It sits even in plain water…and when I measure OG it always matches my refractometer…which also sits even with plain water.

How do I calibrate a thermometer though? It’s a dial that’s sometimes hard to read but I’m sure when it’s at 212 is about perfect for boil. Any suggestions for ways to test it?

*Fixed my oops

[quote=“catswilleatyou”]Thanks for all the input. I really appreciate it.

I’ve brought it upstairs in the primary for now.
I think my hydrometer is accurate. It sits even in plain water…and when I measure SG it always matches my refractometer…which also sits even with plain water.

How do I calibrate a thermometer though? It’s a dial that’s sometimes hard to read but I’m sure when it’s at 212 is about perfect for boil. Any suggestions for ways to test it?[/quote]
The only way is to buy a calibrated thermometer. Also, if you have the dial thermo like mine with the long metal shaft, you need to make sure you get as much of the probe into what your measuring.

One thing to note, I don’t think refracs and hydros should match at SG. The refrac’s gravity is skewed by alcohol. But if you are at 1.000 in water, the hydro is calibrated.

I meant to say OG. Hydrometer and refractometer should match at OG right?

Yes the refractometer and hydrometer should be the same (ish). :wink:

http://www.kitsappublichealth.org/infor ... 111014.pdf

If you thermometer has a “nut” on the under side of the dial, you can hold this nut and turn the face to adjust it.

There is a little variation in the boil temps depending on your elevation. I’m at about 209.5*

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boili ... _1344.html

Rule of thumb. Make starters larger than 1L, and try to mimic the beer you’re pitching into with your starter wort. malt extract is the easiest way to achieve this. That being said, I doubt that’s where the issue is. but a good thing to consider next time around.

you say your mash varied from 148-158. how hot was it during the first 20 minutes of mashing in? did it start colder and warm up? or did it start hot and cool down? was it 155+ most of the time?

as mentioned - your thermometer may be the culprit. could be a high mash temp

Check out vwr.com for a calibrated thermometer. Dealing with cheap probes or dangerous glass thermometers can be maddening for an all grain brewer. Just because they are “accurate” at boiling or in an ice bath doesn’t mean they are at 152. Temperature is too critical a variable to trust to a $5 p.o.s.!! Even a few degrees can make a big difference, and ± 5 degrees is good performance for a cheap thermometer. With all your challenges temperature wise you need accuracy to work out your issues. By the way, ever tried a cooler type mash tun? I’ve never lost more than 1 degree an hour in mine…

I started at 152…probably dipped a little and then rose to 158 around the 35 min mark. I would say that most of the time it was below 155…but not by much. Curious though, what is the difference between being high at the beginning of the mash vs later on?

I do have a cooler mash tun also. I’ve just really been drawn to the bag process lately. One less piece to clean and less tubing to worry about. No trouble keeping the temp even when I’ve done it inside… so I just have to get used to adjusting it outside…maybe get some sort of insulation around the kettle. Or just accept that it’s going to lose a few degrees and try not to overcompensate and raise the heat rapidly like I did.

Thanks for all the input everyone.
I’ve seen the airlock bubble occasionally since I’ve brought it upstairs so I think it’s still going to drop a little.

I think Demus was asking because most of the conversion is done at the beginning of the mash, so if you were at 152 for the first 35 minutes, most of the starch was converted.

You will get bubbling at warmer temperature because the liquid is letting off absorbed CO2. Check the gravity and if it’s the same as before you moved it get those hops in so you can be drinking it in a couple of weeks :smiley:

[quote=“mvsawyer”]
You will get bubbling at warmer temperature because the liquid is letting off absorbed CO2. Check the gravity and if it’s the same as before you moved it get those hops in so you can be drinking it in a couple of weeks :smiley: [/quote]

doh.
hasn’t budged.
will transfer and start the dry hop tonight.

[quote=“mvsawyer”]I think Demus was asking because most of the conversion is done at the beginning of the mash, so if you were at 152 for the first 35 minutes, most of the starch was converted.
[/quote]

That is precisely what i was getting at

somehow demus got quoted on my post :cheers:

[quote=“S.Scoggin”][quote=“mvsawyer”]I think Demus was asking because most of the conversion is done at the beginning of the mash, so if you were at 152 for the first 35 minutes, most of the starch was converted.
[/quote]

That is precisely what i was getting at

somehow demus got quoted on my post :cheers: [/quote]
Whoopsi…Sorry scoggs