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First IPA recipe

Hello,

I am attempting my first IPA homebrew using the BIAG method. I would love some feedback on my proposed recipe & hop schedule. Thanks in advance!

Looking to make a 5 gallon batch:

MASH:
1KG Marris Otter Pale Malt
4KG 2 row malt

Hops/Boil
I have simcoe and cascade in leaf and citra & magnum in pellet.
so:

60 mins: 10 grams of Magnum
15 mins: 15G of cascade, simcoe & citra
5 mins: 20 grams of cascade, simcoe and citra
Flameout: 10 grams of simcoe and cascade
Dry Hopping about 70grams of simcoe and cascade for 3/4 days

Any feedback is really appreciated!

Looks good. I like a little wheat in my IPAs. What yeast are you using? That’s an important consideration.

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Wheat gives your IPA a long lasting head of foam… Makes it really look awesome foe a while…
Sneezles61

Welcome to the forum! Looks like a good recipe to me, maybe a little heavy and a little wasteful for the dry hop IMHO. Maybe I need to understand though. When you say 70G of hops are you using 70 each of Cascade and Simcoe or 35 of each? If it’s 70 of each then I think for an IPA you’re going to overpower pretty much everything else you put in there. Just my opinion though so do it if you want and let us know! Cheers!

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I’m going for 35G of each for the dry hop, so 70 in total.

I am planning to do this via a BIAB method with a 33ml pot. Do you think 30L of strikewater is okay for a 5 gallon batch?

I use a similarly sized pot, 8g (30.28L), for BIAB. I start with 5g of water and steep in that when I am up to temperature. I then sparge with an additional gallon of 170F water after lifting and draining my bag.
After boiling and absorption of hops I often have to add a little tap water at the end. But I prefer to add than have too much, and therefore diluted, wort.

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Must apologize for not being able to convert metric to English… Another problem I need resolve…
Sneezles61

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so you just put more water in after the mash to replace what was cooked off, so you have more going into the boil? - this is my first brew attempt but i don’t want to start on starter packs as i don’t see the fun in having everything done for me!

70g (2 1/2 oz) seems good then. Make sure to let us know how it goes and how it turns out. Lots of very knowledgeable folks here.

@sneezles61 28g to the ounce. You might guess where I learned that conversion. LOL😎

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Actually, you are trying to “rinse” (sparge) more sugars from the grain directly after mashing… in the mash out process…
The actual adding of water towards the end of the boiling is for 2 ideas…
The first is to adjust final gravity… I’d be willing to bet, big breweries do this. Make a very strong wort… Then dilute to a specific gravity… I’ll do this when making a small brew… I can get very exact.
The second, is chilling takes a long time, why not knock some time off? You brew a smaller volume, add to chill and reach your wanted volume…
Easy eh?
Sneezles61

the hardest thing I am finding as a beginner is understanding the water levels! the rest I feel I can get my head round

You can always add water. But you can never take away :wink: I always plan on losing at least 1 gallon during the 60min boil and from hop absorption. So that’s all I worry about… have an extra gallon at the start of the boil. But I have made plenty a great beers starting with 3 gallons of concentrated wort and adding 2 gallons of water right before aerating for the yeast

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I am going to wait for the mash to finish, drain the grain bag over the mash and run a little water over it to do so. pop it into a different bucket with a gallon of water and then add the water to my boil after about ten minutes. Think that should see me okay! Still waiting for my ingredients to turn up but really can’t wait to get cracking now!

Squeeze the bag to get as much wort out as possible… When rinsing the grain… I’d use 160* water… I guess you could use hotter water and just denature the enzymatic reaction… But if the pH isn’t in the sweet spot… Then you also bring tannins and extra proteins… (Harsher flavors and hazing in a cold state)…
Sneezles61

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So should I not do that? I need to add some water though right?

Ps. I’m going for a 5 gallon batch with a 33 litre kettle

You don’t have to sparge. It’s just a way of increasing efficiency. Not really a big deal.
You will want to squeeze that bag though.
I have a ratcheting pulley. So the pulley stays in place as I lift out the bag. Then I just go about other work as it drains and cools.

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As Squeegee says… You increase efficiency… See, there are sugars stuck in there… You are trying to rinse them out into the newly made wort…
There is a boat load of stuff to read through… And as you brew, take notes…
Sneezles61

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I see. But if I mash with 29L I’m going to lose roughly 2 gallons from mash and boil and the batch will be less than the 5 gallons I’m after? So for that reason? Sorry guys just trying to get my head around it!

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