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Fermintation Question & What Next?

Ok, this coming Saturday will be 2 weeks since Brew Day. The batch is the American Wheat. Would it be alright to check the gravity a couple of days earlier (Thursday) and then again on Saturday? That way if there is no change, I can go ahead and bottle. The recipe instructions call for 2 weeks ferment, 2 weeks bottle condition. I’m getting anxious to be honest, but have no problem if this is one of those things that have to be followed to a T.

Anything else I might need to know? Pretty much, I guess I boil some water with the correct amount of table sugar, then Star-San the bottling bucket, siphon, wand, and bottles & caps, then start filling bottles with the mixed wort/sugar.

On another note,

What should be my next batch? I’m not so worried about a quick turnaround since I’ll have all this wheat beer to drink (unless it winds up tasting like crap). I’ve narrowed it down to:

Nukey Brown Ale
Carribou Slobber
Phat Tyre Amber Ale
Nut Brown Ale

The easiest would be to get the cheapest of the four and go from there. I don’t know to be honest. I like a good nut brown (Like Bluegrass Brewery’s and Redhook’s) and have always loved Fat Tire and Newcastle as far as national brands to throw out there.

I think I’ll also add some bigger bottles. I’ve enjoyed the beer I’ve drank from what I’ve collected, but I don’t think I’m going to enjoy bottling 48-54 bottles, especially have to soak, remove labels, etc.

Yes, you should be fine checking your gravity now. I brewed two batches of an American Wheat this summer - one batch used Wyeast 1010 and the other I used dry yeast, WB06. Both were finished with primary fermentation within 7 days and ended up as good examples of the beer.

Per your other questions, you seem to be on the right track. As far as your next brew?, Caribou is my vote

It’s what is inside the bottle that counts, not the outside. :wink:

If your bottles are clean, put them in the dishwasher and run the sanitize cycle. No soap and plug the “jet dry” hole with some paper towel. Do this the night before so the bottle have time to cool.

Also, get a couple of 16-20oz soda bottles. Fill them, squeeze the O2 out and screw the cap on. The bottle will expand ad CO2 is formed. No more wondering what is happening in the glass bottles.

Larger bottles work great for growlers to take to poker night, Monday Night Football or camping trips. Even to sneak into a park the doesn’t allow alcohol. :shock:

well, one vote for the caribou slobber…any other suggestions on the next batch? :cheers:

[quote=“Yesfan70”]…any other suggestions on the next batch? :cheers: [/quote]Something with hops in it?

It’s what you want to drink. Not what we think.

I’m not a fan of brown ales. So I will never suggest one.


Put each style in a balloon, inflate, tape to the wall and throw a dart. Brew.

I completely agree with one small addition: It’s what you anticipate you’ll want to drink approximately 6 weeks from now. :wink: That can be the hard part.

Some would say this is a good time to start brewing darker brews, so they’re ready for the cooler weather.

I can see that. I was just wanting more input from those who have done the other 4 brews and see what was liked about one over the other.

On another note. I did check the FG of my current batch. I got a reading of 1.010. Does that seem normal for the American Wheat? It looked like beer, smelled like beer, and tasted like (flat) beer. Not to pat myself on the back, but I’m happy with the results so far. I may take another reading tomorrow when I come home and go ahead and bottle a day early if the FG’s the same.

NB’s American Amber kit was phenomenal when I made it. Very easy, not a lot of ingredients.

On another note. I did check the FG of my current batch. I got a reading of 1.010. Does that seem normal for the American Wheat? [/quote]

You are right in the middle of the correct FG for an american wheat.

American Wheat:

6D. American Wheat or Rye Beer

Vital Statistics: OG: 1.040 – 1.055
IBUs: 15 – 30 FG: 1.008 – 1.013
SRM: 3 – 6 ABV: 4 – 5.5%

Aroma: Low to moderate grainy wheat or rye character. Some malty sweetness is acceptable. Esters can be moderate to none, although should reflect American yeast strains. The clove and banana aromas common to German hefeweizens are inappropriate. Hop aroma may be low to moderate, and can have either a citrusy American or a spicy or floral noble hop character. Slight crisp sharpness is optional. No diacetyl.

Appearance: Usually pale yellow to gold. Clarity may range from brilliant to hazy with yeast approximating the German hefeweizen style of beer. Big, long-lasting white head.

Flavor: Light to moderately strong grainy wheat or rye flavor, which can linger into the finish. Rye versions are richer and spicier than wheat. May have a moderate malty sweetness or finish quite dry. Low to moderate hop bitterness, which sometimes lasts into the finish. Low to moderate hop flavor (citrusy American or spicy/floral noble). Esters can be moderate to none, but should not take on a German Weizen character (banana). No clove phenols, although a light spiciness from wheat or rye is acceptable. May have a slightly crisp or sharp finish. No diacetyl.

Mouthfeel: Medium-light to medium body. Medium-high to high carbonation. May have a light alcohol warmth in stronger examples.

Overall Impression: Refreshing wheat or rye beers that can display more hop character and less yeast character than their German cousins.

Comments: Different variations exist, from an easy-drinking fairly sweet beer to a dry, aggressively hopped beer with a strong wheat or rye flavor. Dark versions approximating dunkelweizens (with darker, richer malt flavors in addition to the color) should be entered in the Specialty Beer category. THE BREWER SHOULD SPECIFY IF RYE IS USED; IF NO DOMINANT GRAIN IS SPECIFIED, WHEAT WILL BE ASSUMED.

Ingredients: Clean American ale yeast, but also can be made as a lager. Large proportion of wheat malt (often 50% or more, but this isn’t a legal requirement as in Germany). American or noble hops. American Rye Beers can follow the same general guidelines, substituting rye for some or all of the wheat. Other base styles (e.g., IPA, stout) with a noticeable rye character should be entered in the Specialty Beer category (23).

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